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How to glue photoetch to clear parts


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I try as much as possible to avoid using superglue with photo-etched parts. It cures too fast with no time for adjustment, you need to have the steadiness-of-hand and rapidity of an olympic sharpshooter to get the part where you need it in the time given. I prefer PVA-type glues such as those mentioned above. One of my favourites is Pacer Formula 560. When large folded parts need to be joined I use tiny drops of superglue to "tack" parts together and then secure the joint with the PVA-type glue or Future/Klear (run it along the joint with a brush). 

For applying flat parts on flat surfaces like that, by far the best is Klear/Future/Pledge or whatever it is called nowadays. It dries clear, hard as nails and it allows for some repositioning. 

Radu 

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I keep a bottle of RC-56 around for things like this.  It's sold to the RC airplane guys to glue canopies down.  It's like Elmers, but thicker and seems to hold things in place better while curing.  LHS should stock it if they support the RC airplane guys.

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Regular Superglue (cyanocrylate) that you buy in stores may fog transparent plastic. but it is easily avoided if you let the vapor from the superglue evacuate away from the plastic part.

For instance storing it upside down while the glue sets. the plastic will fog if a lot of superglue was used and vapor are trapped for a long time on the plastic part.

 

Some specific cyanocrylate superglue (brand 21) for instance doesn't fog at all, even for longer contact with the plastic. And they have a slow drying cyano which makes it perfect for PE work.

No affiliation with the company, just a happy user of the product

http://italienstylerenov.com/english/

 

COLLE-21x200.jpg

 

 

I tried to use gator as well, but the glue is too thick (although i diluted it with water) and it doesn't get stored very well. It ages bad with time becoming more and more dense.

I still use it as well but i find it hard to work clean with it.

Edited by red Dog
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If you can find it, G-S Hypo Cement from Micro-Mark is very useful but they call it Watch Crystal Cement.  It is clear, more than a bit gooey so it sticks and stays, but is not an instant adhesion so you have time to move things around a bit.  But once it dries, it is rock-hard.

 

Watch Crystal Cement For Clear Contoured Plastic

This special cement with needle point applicator is ideal for cementing clear contoured plastic canopies and windshields on airplane and car models. Can also be used on many other model assembly projects. Cement dries crystal clear and won't attack plastic. Uncured cement cleans up easily with ordinary rubbing alcohol. Special needle point applicator tip makes precise placement easy. Wire-in-cap keeps applicator free flowing. Cures to the touch in 15 minutes. Two 1/3 oz. tubes.  $9.95USD

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Thanks Big Texan!  I actually used it last night to attach the clear bits to a HellCat I'm building in 1/72, esp the two pieces behind the cockpit.  I wanted something pretty sturdy to hold up to the masking.

 

I've had my tube at least 7 years; its all crinkled up, but the top keeps it fresh.

Chris

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