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Bf 109 G-2 of Johannes "Macky" Steinhoff - REVELL - 1/32


Furie

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FWIW the green stuff you refer to used to be known as Duro in figure modelling circles .

It dries rubber-like, is very difficult to sand smoothly and nearly impossible to feather.

IMO the best way to deal with your problem is …Milliput.

(But hey, my friends call me Mr. Milliput :lol: )

Edited by quang
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4 hours ago, quang said:

FWIW the green stuff you refer to used to be known as Duro in figure modelling circles .

It dries rubber-like, is very difficult to sand smoothly and nearly impossible to feather.

IMO the best way to deal with your problem is …Milliput.

(But hey, my friends call me Mr. Milliput :lol: )

Reading through all this (and my apologies Denis for being en retard) I would recommend either Apoxie Sculpt and/or Milliput, both already recommended. The beauty of both is that you can add judicious amounts of water when blended to get a really  fine paste which can be applied very precisely AND cleaned up very easily.

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5 hours ago, mozart said:

Reading through all this (and my apologies Denis for being en retard) I would recommend either Apoxie Sculpt and/or Milliput, both already recommended. The beauty of both is that you can add judicious amounts of water when blended to get a really  fine paste which can be applied very precisely AND cleaned up very easily.

 

+1

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I had similar fit issues on my G-2 kit which was down to the internal radiator faces which needed some trimming. Although I used the Barracudacast replacement part this is what I ended up with

 

20230331-203621.jpg

 

and my G-10

 

20230331-202337.jpg

 

Maybe if you can it might be worth trying to remove the ill fitting scoop and have a closer look at what is causing the issue.

 

Regards. Andy 

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Hi Andy, and thanks for the advice.
Indeed, I also trimmed the 2 radiators thinking that they were the ones that didn't allow the good adjustment of this part. But even without the 2 radiators, I realized that it was the part that didn't want to fit properly...
So I put the 2 radiators, I put glue on the 4 ends of the part, and I glued it under the fuselage.
What kills me about this model is that nothing fits right the first time, and each new piece I glue on requires a day of sanding and adjusting to make it look right...
I'm not progressing in the construction, I still have to sand/putty/etch the whole backside behind the wing, but the hardest part is still to come: engraving the rivets on the whole fuselage, and I think I'll blow a fuse......

 

Denis trying not to lose patience (but it's very very difficult!)

 

giphy.gif

Edited by Furie
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A small step for humanity, a big step for Denis!


That's it, I'm done with this Fµ#!$K&#G lower radiator!
I finally chose the cyano "gel" glue, I applied it delicately with a needle, to put as little as possible on the outside of the plastic part, but only to fill San Andreas.

Then I sanded with 600 and finished with 1200. 
I took the opportunity to drill the hole under the fuselage just behind the propeller, and a very small hole on the front of the radiator, where I placed a drain made with a nylon toothbrush bristle (!) glued with cyano.
I'll finally be able to go to the back of the fuselage above/below.

 

What do you think about it?

 

-before:

 

s5si.jpg

 

 

-after: 

 

xs8p.jpg

 

 

The little paint chips in the photo on the right side are due to the water that was in the radiator when I painted with my airbrush.

y3e4.jpg

 

l245.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Furie
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  • 2 weeks later...

Here we go again.
I am currently waiting to receive tools to redo the engraving of my fuselage, but in the meantime I received my order for my riveter.

 

It's a Galaxy Tolls: I ordered a handle and two sets (0.55-0.65-0.75) + (1.00-1.25-1.50) :

 

appp.jpg

 

I think that for a 1/32 scale model I could engrave just about any size of rivet. There are also sets with a smaller diameter for less accessible places as well as "corner" type sets, see the link where I ordered this material :

 

Outil de marquage de coin/Rivet et couteau avec poignée, outils de construction pour modèle militaire Gundam, outil de bricolage T09B01 | AliExpress

 

 

Note that each set comes with an Allen key and a flat key to adjust the resistance of each wheel. I set it a bit "hard" to avoid the wheel to go too fast at an undesired place (as you already know, I subscribe to Murphy's Denis's law ) :

 

02j9.jpg

 

 

I used the AERO DETAIL dedicated to the Bf 109 G, I printed the plan at 1/32 scale to better visualize the missing rivets :

 

a03x.jpg

 

 

I drew with a pencil the missing rivets on the plan :

 

7n4i.jpg

 

 

And I traced them with a pencil on the model :

 

4wfy.jpg

 

 

And there you have it.
You still have to press hard to mark the rivets (at the beginning I used a guide to draw the rivets but in fact I can do it quite well freehand) :

 

vmuz.jpg

 

 

A big thank you to all those who have kindly advised me on this topic : 

 

Thanks to you I avoided making a lot of mistakes, thanks again for sharing the information.
I don't know if I already told you, but this forum is great for a beginner like me.

:bow:

 

Denis who is quite happy with himself, even if he knows that doing the rivets on the fuselage will be quite complicated!

 

Edited by Furie
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Thanks Mike, but do you mean the little hole just under the tube that I added, or are you talking about a hole behind it?
Following your post, I just looked at all the documents I have on the 109 and I don't see anything neither on the 2D plans nor on the pictures in the museums!
It's hard to find pictures of the underside of the complete radiator.
Would you have something to show me please?
 

Sinon, je donne ma langue au chat ! (I give up the ghost).

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