Airfix 1/24th scale Mk.IX Spitfire........March 2024. All done

[Landrotten Highlander]

not what you were after, perhaps, but quite funky in nature, no?

[quang]

6 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

The white tack has indeed left snail trails behind 

IMO the snail trails are caused by the underlying paint, NOT the white tack. I regularly use Uhu white tack on lacquer (AK, Gunze, Tamiya) and acrylic (Vallejo, Hataka, Tamiya) paints without any issue. 

[geedubelyer]

16 hours ago, quang said:

IMO the snail trails are caused by the underlying paint, NOT the white tack. I regularly use Uhu white tack on lacquer (AK, Gunze, Tamiya) and acrylic (Vallejo, Hataka, Tamiya) paints without any issue. 

I'm inclined to agree @quang. 

The "snail trails" are a peculiar thing.

I attempted to gently sand them to remove them but it seems that they are not solely on the surface.

In the end I was forced to remove the grey paint completely before re-applying it. 

 

 

The small area on the left most part of the wing is purely sprayed over but it took a great deal of covering. 

Sanding the paint back worked better. 

 

 

It's a time consuming and painstaking process but I believe the problem is not insurmountable. 

 

With care and patience I'm hoping to achieve an acceptable end result.

 

The next hurdle looming on the horizon is the masks. 

As @KUROK explained, without an additive this paint is remarkably fragile unfortunately.

 

I fully expect much liftage. 

 

One possible plan to mitigate this would be to spray a top coat over the colours to try to strengthen it. 

 

Thanks for all of the support everyone. I am aware that a number of folk added the "concerned" emoticon on my post. 

Your sentiments are much appreciated. 

 

More when there's more to show.

 

Cheers 

[quang]

I think it’s a chemical reaction of the paint. Next time, try wiping off the greasy stains with lighter fluid. Lighter fluid is very volatile. It won’t hurt your finish and it’s a great degreaser.

HTH

Quang

[CraigH]

9 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

I'm inclined to agree @quang. 

The "snail trails" are a peculiar thing.

I attempted to gently sand them to remove them but it seems that they are not solely on the surface.

In the end I was forced to remove the grey paint completely before re-applying it. 

 

 

The small area on the left most part of the wing is purely sprayed over but it took a great deal of covering. 

Sanding the paint back worked better. 

 

 

It's a time consuming and painstaking process but I believe the problem is not insurmountable. 

 

With care and patience I'm hoping to achieve an acceptable end result.

 

The next hurdle looming on the horizon is the masks. 

As @KUROK explained, without an additive this paint is remarkably fragile unfortunately.

 

I fully expect much liftage. 

 

One possible plan to mitigate this would be to spray a top coat over the colours to try to strengthen it. 

 

Thanks for all of the support everyone. I am aware that a number of folk added the "concerned" emoticon on my post. 

Your sentiments are much appreciated. 

 

More when there's more to show.

 

Cheers 

Hi Guy,

I fully appreciate that they're not to everyone's taste but I've moved exclusively to MRP paints. The colours are brilliant, it goes down rock solid even without primer and is so thin and workable that shading, fading etc are all achievable by varying paint layers. I used whitetack too on my spit with no issues. I'm sure it's a chemical leaching reaction with some paints. 

But as ever, it's looking great. I have the splinter camo on the Stuka to come which at least are hard edges.

[mozart]

I have to agree 100% with Craig about MRP. I have heard both good and not so good things about MM paints and your experience does nothing to persuade me to use them. 

[geedubelyer]

@CraigH and @mozart, thanks guys. 

I had a look for some MRP paints for this build but everywhere I tried is waiting for stock.

 

In other news I would like to say a big thank you to @quang for his suggestion.

I don't have any lighter fluid (where would I buy lighter fluid in the UK?) but I do have some automotive panel wipe solution which is a volatile wax and grease remover. 

 

Here's how it went.

 

 

As @quangexplained, the fluid appears to have left the paint intact so I'm a happy camper. 

There are areas that need re-visiting but this result is very encouraging. 

 

What a community LSP is. 

Thanks again. 

 

Cheers. 

[quang]

11 minutes ago, geedubelyer said:

Here's how it went.

Great to see it worked.

Lighter fluid goes under different names depending on where you live: essence F (France), naphta/essence à nettoyer/was benzine (Belgium), benzene (UK), … It’s generally used for dry-cleaning delicate clothing.

HTH

Q

[geedubelyer]

 

She looks better now. The slightly blotchy, mottled appearance of the cammo wouldn't win any competitions but I'm hopeful that it will make a good basis for a war weary airframe. 

 

 

The blurb suggests the product is durable and works well directly from the bottle. 

I agree that the paint applies beautifully straight out of the bottle.

Where I think I slipped up is applying too much hairspray over the Tamiya silver base coat.

I wanted to be able to chip and weather the paint but it's made the finish very delicate indeed. 

I'll spray a protective coat of Klear or varnish over the cammo and let it sit before attempting any further masking. 

 

In the meantime I can get on with finishing the undercarriage and canopy. 

 

Cheers 

 

 

Edited February 15 by geedubelyer

[geedubelyer]

I think I have narrowed the choice of aircraft down at last. 

It will be a 412 RCAF Sqdn  aircraft since at one time they were based not far from where I lived. 412 RCAF Sqdn was formed at RAF Digby in 1941.

 

Now what I need is a little help deciding on which airframe to portray. 

It would appear that 412 sqn received Spitfire Mk IXs in 1943 with serials of MJ---. What is not clear is which squadron VZ- codes were assigned to which aircraft.

 

I have seen that MJ255 was VZ-S here. MH617 appears to have been VZ-V from here

 

Can anyone suggest other airframes? 

 

My ideal subject will be pre-D-Day and without the stripes. Just a line bird with no particular affiliation to a well known pilot.

 

Thanks for your input folks.

[Shoggz]

Guy, full marks for your tenacity.

 

As another UK-based MRP acolyte, can I suggest MJR Models

 

https://www.mjrmodelsandhobbies.co.uk/sub_catid/175/

 

I'd like to use Premium Hobbies so that I can get my 'Nigel's Modelling Bench' discount, but like you say, invariably they don't have stock of the popular RAF, USAAF and Luftwaffe colours.

 

..but, MJR have not let me down yet!

[CraigH]

7 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

@CraigH and @mozart, thanks guys. 

I had a look for some MRP paints for this build but everywhere I tried is waiting for stock.

 

In other news I would like to say a big thank you to @quang for his suggestion.

I don't have any lighter fluid (where would I buy lighter fluid in the UK?) but I do have some automotive panel wipe solution which is a volatile wax and grease remover. 

 

Here's how it went.

 

 

As @quangexplained, the fluid appears to have left the paint intact so I'm a happy camper. 

There are areas that need re-visiting but this result is very encouraging. 

 

What a community LSP is. 

Thanks again. 

 

Cheers. 

Hi Guy

For MRP I use either Premium Hobbies or MJR. Both usually carry a good stock

[LSP_Kevin]

Brilliant recovery, Guy! Looks great.

 

Kev

[jumpjack]

On 2/15/2024 at 11:35 AM, geedubelyer said:

(where would I buy lighter fluid in the UK?)

I by mine in traditional 'corner shops', the sort of place that still stocks stuff the supermarkets will tell you is no longer made/illegal to sell etc. Main uses for me are removing tape residue, degreasing and thinning enamels.

 

[geedubelyer]

Hi folk. 

Very much appreciate the encouragement along with the paint and lighter fluid advice. 

 

I will give the MRP paint line a try. I do like to try different manufacturers paints. Some are better than others for spraying, some for brush painting and some have a more accurate looking colour palette. All have their uses. 

 

Most of my time recently has been taken up with applying stencil data to the upper surfaces and the aircraft markings. I'm using the 1 Man Army set exclusively for this as they offer all of the equivalent components, even down to aircraft codes and serials.

 

Having applied most of the upper surface stencils including the long walkway strips on the wings I'm happy to report that paint lift has been negligible so far. 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are a couple of thoughts along the way.

Firstly, the aircraft data stencils are simply amazing. How Sven manages to create these is a marvel to behold. Everything is legible and this technique allows the modeller to choose exactly the correct shade to give the effect they desire. Pristine and factory fresh or faded and worn. Everything become possible.

 

The multi colour markings are time consuming and a great deal of care must be taken to ensure correct alignment. The best example I've come across so far are the national roundels.

The four colour fuselage roundel in particular takes patience. However, everything required to make the task as fool proof and easy as possible is provided in the set with multiple masks per marking.

 

After messaging with Sven he recommended starting with the red inner dot and working my way outwards.

I used the complete mask with all four circles and positioned the unit on the model by careful measurement. This is made easier as the mask is exactly 5mm larger than the roundel. After applying masking tape (often referred to as "transfer tape") over the roundel circles to hold them in situ I carefully applied the mask. 

The adhesive on the mask is strong and it wants to grab as soon as it touches. I held my tongue out when I was doing this bit.  (Try it, it really helps....)

 

Next I removed the transfer tape and the inner circle to apply the red.

 

 

I actually removed the white ring mask carefully before the red dried. Not sure if that's necessary or not but I was hoping to avoid any possible edge. 

 

In order to mask the red Sven provides the circle mask as an entirely separate component. 

 

This mask is the exact same size as the whole item but clearly only provides a mask for the central circle. Once overlayed it masks the red completely.

The "2d" number in the corner corresponds with the original mask number "2abcd". 

Transfer tape was used again and the mask was carefully aligned with the base mask. 

 

 

Peeling away the mask leaves the central circle covered

 

 

With the white applied it's on to the blue.....

 

 

The next stage mask is a larger circle the same diameter as the white. It obviously masks the red at the same time. Then with the blue applied and dry the last one repeats the same process by leaving only the yellow circle visible.. A clever and easy to use system. Congratulations 1 Man Army. 

 

Each layer must be completely dry and hard before the next mask is applied which is where the patience comes in. For anyone prepared to try them these masks offer huge scope for realism and authenticity. 

 

Cheers.

Edited February 22 by geedubelyer