geedubelyer

Smashing video Torben, thanks for sharing. Many interesting visual effects on display as the light changes over the airframe. I'm very interested to see how Peter will replicate the arc of heat staining from the hot exhaust. The anti-glare panel demarcation is also interesting. It looks to be asymetrical from the front three quarter view although I'm sure it is n't. Plenty to enjoy about that video. Cheers.

Very neat work so far. Just a brief heads-up on the kit's dihedral. It might be worth comparing the kit parts to references. When I built the Mk IIa the dihedral seemed somewhat shallow when compared to photos. It was possibly my construction technique but I thought it might be of interest. Cheers.

Lovely job Max. Your Gladiator is splendid.

That is looking superb Pete, great job. What I particularly admire about your work is the realism brought about by the attention to detail. The wire bundles have a realistic haphazard appearance with different thicknesses to the bundles. The patches of chipping and wear are all thought out and not just randomly dotted all over simply for the sake of it. Certain high travel areas have dirt and grime applied but it is n't over the whole so again, looks perfectly real. This is both inspirational and motivational and it's just the ceiling and might be hard to see on the completed model. Amazing. Looking forward to more. Cheers.

Fascinating topic. Hi Mike, the top photo you shared is a very tight crop. Is it possible that the photo itself might not be plumb? Could it have been tilted a degree or two to the left by the photographer to make the exhausts look level? Sometimes things just appear weird when they're cropped in tight and a little manipulation is needed for balance. FWIW, I'd go with a slight downward droop but perhaps it depends on who manufactured the manifold? Looking forward to seeing more input on this topic. Cheers.

Very much looking forward to seeing this on being built. I'm looking at you Max

Hello Raphael. For sheer enjoyment I would recommend the Tamiya F-16. The way the kit fits and the engineering involved is virtually magical. If you seek a challenge then go for the Tamiya F-14. The overall shape is possibly better than the newer Trumpeter offering but it is old and lacking in several areas like the cockpit and wheel bays. Go for the newest "Black Knights" edition if you can find it. (Don't be too put off by the raised panel lines on the rear upper deck as close inspection of the real aircraft shows that to be surprisingly accurate.) Good luck with your choice and have fun. HTH. Cheers.

Cracking job on your Gladbag Max. She's very inspirational. I like the second image with the pilot looking straight into the camera. He's a very well painted figure. Good job. Cheers.

That's a good idea Max. Micro tubing is easy to flatten with pliers and should be accurate to measure too. Another way to use the metal tubing could be to flatten it and bend it over on itself trapping the Prym in the fold. The flattened tubing would be glued to the flying surfaces as an anchor. The tail of the thread could be glued to the stretched thread to resemble a fastening similar to the real deal? I'm looking forward to seeing how you resolve your conundrum. Cheers.

Thank you for taking the time to update the progress on this kit. The photos of the model in development look promising. Good job. Cheers.

Hi Max, great work on your Glad. Re:the empennage rigging, are you using stretched sprue? If so, could you flatten the ends and glue that to the rudder/horizontal tail? Fixing bolt heads could be added afterwards from more tiny bits of sprue or aftermarket parts.

Thanks Max. I hope we hear more about this model before long. Cheers.

Wow! That is magnificent David, great job. i certainly had to double-take. If you had used chocks and scale RBF tags I would n't have known the first photo from the real thing. Very fine model executed in fine style. Cheers.

Cracking model Eric. It's great to see something so unusual. Nice job.

Neat work Pete. This should make a fine backdrop for those magnificent figures. Cheers.

What an exciting announcement. I own the old Revell TigerMoth but I'm very interested in how this kit looks. Having read reports and reviews of other SilverWings products this promises to be a big leap forward for TigerMoth fans. I'll follow this with great interest. Cheers.

Watching this come together is astonishing but extremely entertaining. Thanks so much for taking the time to share every step of your progress Peter. It's much appreciated. Cheers.

Crikey. That looks absolutely real. What a fabulous bit of scale modelling. Brilliant

Thanks for sharing this excellent news Kev. Glad to hear that Robin is getting back in business. Coincidentally I just found my air cadet log book and now have the serials for a couple of subjects of this kit. Look forward to more news and following your build of the original. Cheers.

Hi Tim, From memory the last few years have been bright but cold. Temperatures in early November can vary alot but are typically just above 0C, in the 5-10 degree range (40-50f). It does n't often snow before Christmas but the mornings are often frosty. HTH. Cheers. The show is really good though, if that helps. It would be good to plan to go for both days if you wish to see it all in any detail.

Crikey!

Thanks for the heads-up Eric. These exhausts look amazing. Anyone want a set of Flightpath etched exhausts? Going cheap......

Mesmerizing work Peter. Truly beautiful to see. Have you considered cigarette paper moistened with dilute PVA glue? Another alternative could be a snippet of silk. That's pretty finely woven Or, some ladies beauty salons use an adhesive backed material as a basis for false resin nails.....apparently......ahem. That could work. A local salon might have some small bits that you could have? Eager to see more. Keep up the stellar work.

Phenomenal Timmy! Like looking at reference photos of the real deal. Simply amazing. I feel your pain with your eyesight It's a headache when you want to be able to add fine detail but can't really see accurately enough to do so. Have you considered using the soft foil from around the tops of wine bottles for your labels? The sort of metal that wraps over the corks rather than the stiffer screw top version. Some of it is even pre-coloured in black. It's easier to get square/rectangular shapes by cutting the foil than it is by painting. Also, scratching the paint off with the tip of a blade replicates the metal lettering of these labels, placards and data panels quite convincingly. Can't think how I missed the start of this thread but I'll be sure to follow along now that I've found it. Looking forward to more. Cheers.

Beautifully weathered Flanker. Great job.