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jumpjack

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  1. Hi Gunpowder Noted Hornet expert David Collins has a thread on the Classic Airframes Sea Hornet here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234983720-classic-airframes-dh-sea-hornet-nf21/ Well worth a look see for tips as your getting to the finishing point- especially on which panel lines should be there and which should not. from my own experience, David is very helpful in sharing his knowledge. BTW for those unaware, the full restoration of a Sea Hornet to flying condition is in hand in New Zealand, http://warbirdsnews.com/aircraft-restoration/de-havilland-sea-hornet-airworthy-restoration-project.html
  2. With apologies, I also use layered laser cut mdf in the creation of compound curves and profiles especially for for model railway vehicles- it is akin to contour mapping or a rather thick later 3d printing. A big plus is that properly sealed it is dimensionally very stable with a shell thickness of between 2 and 3mm. The trick is in the jigging.
  3. Beautiful! Is that a proprietary display stand?
  4. Given German'y's use of the Sea Hawk and the excellent Revell gmbh rendition of the Hunter, I live in hope of a 1/32 offering someday; there could be quite decent interest (UK, Netherlands, West Germany, India).
  5. Don't forget Hawker's first production jet , successor to the Sea Fury and progenitor of the Hunter, the mighty Sea Hawk!
  6. Hi Andy On the Revell Germany home site, a pdf of the instructions is available which illustrate how they tackle the wing root on their new tool 1/48 Beaufighter TF.X. Cheers Les https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/planes/world-war-ii/bristol-beaufighter-tf-x.html?listtype=search&searchparam=beaufighter
  7. When I previously investigated this (for model railway bogies), it appeared the item is plastic/wax printed and that is used for metal investment casting- ie not metal printing. If that is the case then you may be into casting shrinkage allowances etc and probable final machining (unles the technique is a sintered one). Perhaps going direct to good machinist (especially one with CAD control) would give you a better result and offer provision for screw holes etc. . Specialist RC aircraft supplier maybe?
  8. Useful 'walkaround' 3D CAD images of the forthcoming 1/48 Airfix F4 can be found at https://www.airfix.com/uk-en/shop/new-for-2019/hawker-hunter-f4-1-48.html
  9. Are ther any reliable drawings for the differing vent/intake layouts?
  10. Hi Woody My comment was aimed at what can happen at our end- if goods are subject to a UK customs check they are then automatically subject to a Post Office 'handling charge' of £14, whether or not any extra duty is due. In my experience this may apply to any declared value and is frankly a lottery - and a nice little earner if you are cynically inclined. In due course I'm sure Theresa and Donald will get things sorted (LOL). Keep up the good work Les
  11. For a 'frrebee' I would definitely recomend fusion- apart from anything else, there are basic tutorials for kids online to get you started double quick and it handles modelling type small scales with ease (unlike some others). I made my first complex hollowed out 3D model from scratch in under a fortnight. Another plus for fusion is that it can model direct from DWG imported from other programmes- in my case I use CorelDraw for most of my 2D and ship into Fusion 360 for modelling.
  12. Hi Woody TBH $10 p&p is presently not too big a hit in the UK, our internal minimums can easily be half of that. Where things get expensive is when items are intercepted by Customs- that automatically doubles p&p costs through 'handling charges'. les
  13. Thanks for the response, Woody and I've taken due note of your suggestions. I am in the UK where regular supplies of your rivets have been erratic; so I have built up stocks over a number of years from various sources- including direct. On the project mentioned I'll be using Surface Details 25, 30 and 31 of unknown production dates. Related to your laqueur suggestion one technique I've tested with surprising success is to print the required pattern on thin coated paper (@ 0.013mm) using light blue lines (for HO scale the liners are 'hairline'). This is then laqueur coated both sides and the rivets applied 'on the flat' and laqueur sealed, then bonded to the model as a complete 'rivetted' panel. Basically a variation on how Peter Cooke skinned his Lancasters- time consuming but quite effective. Les
  14. Twobad's suggestion can be used for just about any shape of line- at least in F360.
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