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About jumpjack

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  1. Have you seen that Kinetic has recently issued a 1/48 kit of the Pucara with what may be some useful reference graphics appearing on the web? EG, some renditions including cockpit here #https://www.besserepreise.com/modellbau/kinetic/kinetic-maßstab-1:48/kinetic-k48078---ia-58-pucara-in-1:48.htm Les
  2. Hi Peter- Limonene (as sold by Mr Cement but widely available as a commercial product) is a much less aggressive solvent useful for bonding very thin styrene to styrene and other material with a surface key. Smells of citrous fruit. Seasonal Best Wishes to All.
  3. And there was me hoping for a Wyvern TF1! Should it come to making brass look like steel/aluminium, I guess you know about 'immerse tin powder@ used for cold tinning? Les
  4. FWIW, I did some very similar butchery to my Revell 1/48 FGR to eliminate the fuselage/wing joint issues.
  5. Excellent- thanks for the Queen Bee clarification. I wonder if any still fly in private hands. Sorry fo the topic diversion. Les
  6. I sometimes wish the AM resin suppliers would offer some sort of premium service optimized for minimum shrinkage. I do a fair bit of home casting and generally use clear acrylic resin for just this purpose. Some of the resin aircraft I have bought have demonstrated up to 10% shrinkage- always assuming the masters had been worked to some closer approximation of actual scaled dimensions! les
  7. Brilliant masking! Just a question- were the blades entirely wood with no leading edge sheathing? les
  8. I was intending to ask your recommendations for 3D print glues! feeling your pain. Les
  9. May I suggest the gear door fits may well have varied from aircraft to aircraft and have been adjustable to fit the particular airframe? (wheels up test etc). I have dealt with enough refits (not aircraft) to demonstrate stuff as made only approximately fits a drawing and even more rarely matches a stablemate to the nth degree. Otherwise my hat's off to North American for perfection. Les
  10. The new(ish) self levelling acrylic primers go a loooong way in filling striations on curvatures (eg Ultimate primer). Easier to fine finish them than the base material. Les
  11. I'd be very careful determining colour from a monitor screen. Les
  12. Hi Thannus Just for general reference and within the bounds of common facilities, brass and most thin etch metals can be made more maleable with just the heat of a candle flame (suggest non-soot type), electric heat gun or electric stove hob and is advisable whenever a fold or twist needs to be reworked. High heat blow torches etc are not recommended for the chances of competely melting the subject. Les
  13. Hi Thannus I don't know what metal or thickness has been used in the etches but when it is nickel silver or brass the etching process can work harden the material and a gentle pre tempering can be useful- particularly where twists may be involved. I have an idea Eduard has a penchant for stainless steel, an etching material that is very rare in my main hobby of railway modelling, mainly because it is bloody difficult to work with. Les
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