Thunnus Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 2 minutes ago, Kaeone57 said: Thanks for the well wishes John, Motivation is here, now time the real factor... that's a coming! Great work Bro, Love what you do all around, other modelers works as well. Enjoy Bro! Alfonso You're welcome Alfonso! I'll try to keep you entertained in the mean time! Kaeone57 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adameliclem Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Great work on the cowl re-sculpting. It looks like you’ve set up an explanation for your theory of the 4, too. Adam Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockie Yarwood Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Hi John, perhaps a naive question, but is this the tank? If so there is one on display in Bastogne, and some walk around pics here that may help with plumbing locations (?) : http://www.maquetland.com/article-phototheque/15174-abwurftank-typ-d-reservoir-largable-bastogne Cheers, Rockie Thunnus, 109 and D.B. Andrus 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 (edited) That's the correct tank, minus its end fairing which was made of impregnated canvas, the central hanging hook and the fuel cork Only mistake Thunnus did was to model the outlet and inlet as coming out vertically when they are in fact bend at 90 degrees. All is needed to correct it is basically to move the rubber connection for the compressed air to the horizontal position Here's a complete tank (air inlet is bent out of shape) source : https://ww2aircraft.net Edited May 19 by Vincent 109, nmayhew and Thunnus 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 15 hours ago, adameliclem said: Great work on the cowl re-sculpting. It looks like you’ve set up an explanation for your theory of the 4, too. Adam Thank you Adam! And yes... I was waiting for someone to mention that "4" painted on the fuselage. Was it curved or straight? As I mentioned before, Crandall's Dora Volume 2 published this photo and revised its profile to show a curved number "4". As a casual reader, I thought this was an unusual conclusion since the fuselage cross is also similarly curved. Wouldn't the perspective of that photograph cause the illusion of curvature like the fuselage cross? About a year ago, when I had the Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 Late Model in my possession, I decided to do a little test. I created a mask based on the "4" marking found on the Eagle Cal decal sheet EC32-126. But I replaced the curved element with a straight one. This was sprayed onto the starboard side of the Hasegawa 190D-9 fuselage. I then photographed the marking at an angle that approximates the archive photo. It is immediately apparent that curvature of fuselage could very well make the straight "4" look curved. For further confirmation, I composited the two images in Photoshop and used transparency to see that two "4" markings are almost exact matches. While not 100% conclusive, I think the probability of the "4" being straight is very high. adameliclem, Landrotten Highlander, Greg W and 12 others 12 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 12 hours ago, Rockie Yarwood said: Hi John, perhaps a naive question, but is this the tank? If so there is one on display in Bastogne, and some walk around pics here that may help with plumbing locations (?) : http://www.maquetland.com/article-phototheque/15174-abwurftank-typ-d-reservoir-largable-bastogne Cheers, Rockie 6 hours ago, Vincent said: That's the correct tank, minus its end fairing which was made of impregnated canvas, the central hanging hook and the fuel cork Only mistake Thunnus did was to model the outlet and inlet as coming out vertically when they are in fact bend at 90 degrees. All is needed to correct it is basically to move the rubber connection for the compressed air to the horizontal position Here's a complete tank (air inlet is bent out of shape) source : https://ww2aircraft.net Thank you Rocky and Vincent! I guess I was close! It should be pretty easy to make the necessary adjustments! Rockie Yarwood 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adameliclem Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 That’s where I thought you were going with the 4. I think you’re right. Good demo. Cheers, Adam Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Excellent use of the scientific method, John! Your conclusions seem solid to me. Kev Thunnus and IainM 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citadelgrad Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Watching with interest, John, I have this in the stash and many of the aftermarket, shame about the cowling, but thank you for the tutorial on fixing the deficiencies. Watching with interest. Rapt, one might say. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 14 hours ago, Thunnus said: Thank you Adam! And yes... I was waiting for someone to mention that "4" painted on the fuselage. Was it curved or straight? As I mentioned before, Crandall's Dora Volume 2 published this photo and revised its profile to show a curved number "4". As a casual reader, I thought this was an unusual conclusion since the fuselage cross is also similarly curved. Wouldn't the perspective of that photograph cause the illusion of curvature like the fuselage cross? About a year ago, when I had the Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 Late Model in my possession, I decided to do a little test. I created a mask based on the "4" marking found on the Eagle Cal decal sheet EC32-126. But I replaced the curved element with a straight one. This was sprayed onto the starboard side of the Hasegawa 190D-9 fuselage. I then photographed the marking at an angle that approximates the archive photo. It is immediately apparent that curvature of fuselage could very well make the straight "4" look curved. For further confirmation, I composited the two images in Photoshop and used transparency to see that two "4" markings are almost exact matches. While not 100% conclusive, I think the probability of the "4" being straight is very high. Not that it would be hard to mark out a curve when masking up for paint on the real thing but I can't see why they'd wast the time doing so. Love the little experiment it pretty much proves it was straight! Cheers Bevan Thunnus, dodgem37 and IainM 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 You mentioned earlier that you were trying to decide how to "retract" the tailwheel a bit to better represent an operational aircraft, here's a link to a build by Chris Wauchop where he describes how he did it. I followed his advice on one I built years ago and it worked out well. Chris Wauchop FW-190D-9 Hope it helps! Greg W and Thunnus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Wow what an amazingly informative thread so far! thank you @Thunnus as ever for your superbly thought out presentation of both skilled work and also very cool research, and thank you to the other members who have also chimed in with their knowledge looking forward to following this one Nick Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Thanks for the comments people! 4 hours ago, Daywalker said: You mentioned earlier that you were trying to decide how to "retract" the tailwheel a bit to better represent an operational aircraft, here's a link to a build by Chris Wauchop where he describes how he did it. I followed his advice on one I built years ago and it worked out well. Chris Wauchop FW-190D-9 Hope it helps! Interesting tip! I've already ordered the Eagle Editions tail wheel but I'll probably give this a go just to test out for future builds. There is another conclusion that I've drawn from the starboard view of Brown 4. On my D-13 build, Antonio speculated that the small rectangular panel in the middle of the upper wing may be a repair and not a standard feature. Since I was modeling the D-13 at the time, I didn't take any action. Now that I'm building the actual aircraft in the photograph and that panel is clearly not present, I've decided to delete it. It has been filled with black CA glue and the interrupted panel line was connected. The underwing insert joints have been dealt with using a combination of black CA glue on the non-panel lines and white Milliput on the panel lines. The radiator cowling flaps are thick. I've found that shaving down the trailing edges of the flaps make them look much more presentable. Victor K2, Landrotten Highlander, scvrobeson and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judyc Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Did you run the gun cowling under hot wateer? Often this will correct a slight warp. On the other hand, I see you have 'fixed' the Hasegawa part. Judy Eagle Editions Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 6 hours ago, Judyc said: Did you run the gun cowling under hot wateer? Often this will correct a slight warp. On the other hand, I see you have 'fixed' the Hasegawa part. Judy Eagle Editions Hi Judy! Did you see my order for the 190D tail wheel? I did run the cowling under hot water years ago to straighten it but seems to have slowly warped again. But it was also slightly undersized as well, which made using the kit cowling a better proposition for me. I still use it as model reference when re-shaping the Hasegawa part so it was worth the purchase. I got lots of little milestones to report on the Dora build. The first step in incorporating the Eagle Editions resin cockpit has been taken. I've cut the triangular piece of real estate in front of the windscreen using a razor saw. A preliminary check to see how the resin part fits into that space on the fuselage between the gun cowling and windscreen. I'll need to remove the raised detail on the inside of the fuselage sides and do some thinning but I think I will do the riveting first since I don't want to overly stress the thinned portions of the fuselage. I just noticed that the cockpit tub, which I thought was molded the best out of all the resin components, has a noticeable warp in it. Yes, hot water made it relatively simple to straighten but annoying nonetheless. The holes on the face of the radiator cowling were drilled out. There may be a small chance that they will be visible if my plan to have the spinner cap removable turns out. I would've done the two oval openings too but they are directly opposite of the mounting tabs in the back. I wasn't satisfied with the shape of the radiator cowling itself so I gave it another ride on the rotary tool. I think this perspective shows the modification better. The revised cowling in front has a more aerodynamic and less boxy profile than the kit cowling in the back. Model_Monkey, dodgem37, 109 and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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