nmayhew

Good news on the RLM83 - it's nice to see that this 'discovery' is now being put out into the mainstream, and not just tucked away in specialist research forums (I frequent both, and both add value in different ways) Strange call re RLM81 The realisation that RLM83 was a blue goes (kind of) hand in hand with the acknowledgement that RLM81 had green-ish and brown-ish iterations But either way, I think Kotare bringing this sort of thing into the wider realm can only be a good thing - to say nothing of their awesome kits! As to Humbrol, they were very much the imposter being included in the first place - and I say this as someone brought up (probably like Mark and many on here) on Humbrol and Airfix enamels Times have moved on, and enamels have been superseded. I know it sounds harsh (sorry @dennismcc) but the (very!) few that use them can work out the colours themselves - it's a commercial world and Humbrol just don't belong on an instruction sheet where space is very limited Thanks for keeping us in the loop @Mark Robson Can't wait for the 109 and the kits that follow

Awesome!

A video where they show the guy just throwing the stuff in the bin?

what paint are you using? i spray with MRP lacquers because they dry near instantly and i can mask a roundel's various segments in a rapid succession MRP's one downer is probably lack of opacity compared to say SMS, so multiple light passes are the way to go depending on project, i will often re-prime *over* the underlying camo in black if i want black basing effects; again multiple passes, and spray *from the outside of the mask to the inside* to help avoid paint build up (I hope that bit makes sense?) finally, to avoid outlines of colour where you don't want them / or avoid thin demarcation lines where they shouldn't be any... eg 4 colour roundel (and this is just one way to do it of course) - entire mask and surround onto kit to correctly locate - remove outer two rings ie the yellow and blue - spray yellow, but on purpose don't worry about going into the blue section a bit - yellow ring back on; remove white ring - spray blue, and don't worry about going over a bit into the white section - blue ring back on; remove red dot - spray white (you get the deal now...?) - white ring on, spray final red sound a lot of faffing but the key is quick drying paint - the above can all be done in one session with just a minute or so between colours - time enough to clean the airbrush, get the next paint etc I stress this is *not the only way* but a way which may help those struggling with some of the issues mentioned earlier Cheers Nick

Interesting I used to be in ‘the trade’ - working with my late Father who was a dealer for 40+ years we dealt primarily in Ancient Greek & Roman, but also in ‘modern English’ ie milled rather than hammered but still might be 100+ years old for those familiar with the Brit tv series, I often described the trade as ‘Lovejoy with coins Some dealings with dodgy characters, lots of forgeries to avoid, quite a bit of travel, but also sometimes the ‘thrill of the deal’ and if one is interested in history, a very engaging subject matter. the numismatic market still thrives in Germany, but here it is unrecognisable from the one that I grew up with often going to work for the day (Saturday) with my Father up in London Originally there were lots of one man band dealers but they mostly got squeezed out as things went online and became dominated by the large auction houses (not Sotheby’s etc, but rather those that specialise in numismatics) what I find staggering is that the artistry and craftsmanship of Ancient Greek coinage remains unsurpassed to this day - indeed nothing has ever got close. the only parallel I could draw would be like the model industry starting with a Tamiya 1/32 Corsair and then ending up with a 1970s Airfix - it was sort of evolution in reverse. anyway, enough rambling - I’m actually watching an old episode of Lovejoy on tv! Nick

with cockpit closed, the only thing would be exhausts with cockpit open, HGW belts would be the one item i would always add the rest is just fluff PS i have seen Dave Johnson (member here) do a good YouTube build where he used kit tyres and completely eliminates the seam between the two halves

This. 100% this. The whole Infinity project was a disaster in every respect as far as I can tell, which is a great shame because there were glimpses of excellence, which all too quickly became lost in terrible fit, and commercial decisions to match. All very sad, especially as all one is left with is bs 1/35. Anyway, unless someone has ultra-niche interests, there are still excellent kits in most 1/32 WWII areas to keep you going until you die! Just don't take too long before you realise it!

I reckon you’ve nailed it!!

Why? Because there is (near) zero interest and they won’t sell.

so just because i find it disappointing that apparently shows my "willingness to destroy something I don't agree with"? stop talking nonsense man

extremely disappointed that it's 1/35

agreed - it's likely there might be 3+ my refs are merely all the JG54 colour photos - or B&W ones where they are sharp enough to show demarcation - of both 190s and 109s i have done a JG54 109 G-2 where there were 2 great colour pics, but i still went round in circles i think i would go for a really dark green, a much lighter olive / 'forest' type green, and then something like RLM02 or one of the German Army 'Tropen' colours RAL8000 (from Tropen 1) or RAL8020 (from T2) alternatively, one could take the view that whilst on the fuselage they covered all the original camo up with 2 greens, on the wings they left some of the old 74 / 75, and that's what is 'poking through' in places? I think either is credible

The pic seems to show 3 colours on topside of wings btw, so I wouldn’t follow that profile too closely

yup i'm interested in how these will find their way out into the wider modelling community since they come from Russia...?

sorry to say I think that is definitely a you thing rather than a MRP thing

Yes I saw that somewhere too - I think that is now their mode of production kind of makes sense I suppose - old school cast resin is very much on the way out (although some aftermarket guys - one notable armour guy in particular - just refuse to move with the times)

hi Tony, Try Mike Jolly who runs MJR Models and the Modelkits For Less Facebook group and HM Hobbies I have bought from both many times HM has a slicker online presence, but Mike is good too, and the Facebook group is worth checking for ongoing kit deals I am the biggest exponent of MRP but as an aside, I tried VMS Matt varnish (an acrylic rather than lacquer) and damn it was flat - will prob be my go to finishing flat from now on I reckon I will still use MRP varnishes during weathering processes to seal in oils etc etc because its robust finish and near instant drying - no time spent waiting or faffing etc Happy modelling Nick

Heroic efforts on what I now firmly believe is a horrific kit!

Lol I was merely pointing out that raised detail - and it’s not limited to rivets obviously - has associated with it a particular set of problems which are much more difficult to rectify I have a bunch of Kotare Spits btw and as excellent as that kit is, I still don’t think they nailed the rivets - just too big, and once you put a wash on them (something that would not be my style) they look even more ‘in your face’. But anyway, pleased for those who are pleased etc etc etc

Zero love for or interest in 1/35 aircraft, but re positive rivets, one of their big problems is that unlike ‘divot rivets’ they are an absolute sod to replace if lost as a result of sanding etc during construction

nice project do you have a canopy correction set? the original release was moulded insanely with a split down the middle or something stupid like that I have the kit and Aerocraft's resin replacement canopy but age has not been kind - the dreaded yellow tinge has overcome it! 😬 Such a shame because outside of that issue, I think this was one of Revell's last really good releases (I see it's up for re-release late this year btw) What scheme will you be doing?

very excited about these D-11 and D-13 conversions!

They saved you Life is too short for mediocre kits!

ok I'll dip my toe in... That's a punchy price for sure but it has no competition for this marque (quick search on Scalemates and also a reasonably in depth thread on LSP) Is it 'Tamiya quality' (and by that I mean the standard of say their F4U Corsairs, not their F4 Phantoms, whose moulds are getting on a bit now)? I think that has been matched / surpassed by Kotare, but either way it's a meaningful benchmark, even if Big T doesn't make a B. I think I would expect 4 things for this money: 1) accuracy of shape I'm not a SME so cannot comment, but clearly they need to get this 100% spot on 2) fidelity of detail some bits look good, but also some panel lines look like the outsourced to Airfix which is concerning - having read this thread all the way through I can see I am not the only one to have noticed this; comparisons with Italeri...another manufacturer whose surface detail and price points are about as far apart as you can get; this alone is enough to make me pass on a subject 3) Tamiya / Kotare ergonomics and 'buildability' I have seen comments saying they like the breakdown, which is cool; I don't know the subject to know what bits are tricky etc, but RPM can't just do the same as everyone else if they want sales at this price point from anything but the v wealthy or the B- model fanatics 4) some more creative / modeller friendly parts breakdown and positioning and style of sprue gates This is where I might disagree with some of the comments, because all i'm seeing is fairly traditional 'split those drop tanks down the middle' same same old same old... I like the odd jet but don't really 'know' them, so I am happy to be guided by those that do! Nick

The B-17 nose is indeed interesting I must have been under a rock because I have never heard of SBS