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1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 - Dortenmann's Black 1


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Thanks again for the comments. Made some more progress today. The decals (mostly stencils) are all on and the panel line oil wash is complete. 

 

Z5yzzKG.jpg

 

After the decals were dry I applied a gloss coat over each of the decals to seal them in before the wash. 

 

For the wash, I used Abteilung oils coordinated with the base color for each area. Payne's gray was used for the RLM 76 areas; Dark green for RLM 82, Burnt umber/black mix for the RLM 83 areas; Sand for the RLM 04 yellow areas; and black for control surfaces. 

 

8rJ12Re.jpg

 

I find that aligning the panel line colors with the camo colors helps intensify the base color and creates a panel line that looks natural in the same color family as the main color. 

h2AyGWN.jpg

 

Work continues. 

 

Thanks for looking. Comments and critique always welcome. 

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very impressive work Jim!

i like how the camouflage turned out. .. is that gunze colours?

i really love the way the green fades to the 76 on the fuselage .. that 's some serious painting skill

i can also see the rivet effect on the wings , very realistic!!  what do you think finally about them?

 

S

 

 

Edited by duke_
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On 9/7/2022 at 6:28 AM, duke_ said:

very impressive work Jim!

i like how the camouflage turned out. .. is that gunze colours?

i really love the way the green fades to the 76 on the fuselage .. that 's some serious painting skill

i can also see the rivet effect on the wings , very realistic!!  what do you think finally about them?

 

S

 

 

Thanks Spyros!

 

Yes, the colors are Gunze Mr. Color lacquers. 

 

This is my first time using these HGW rivets and I definitely like them vs. not having rivets for sure. I've discovered three main effects using the rivets applied to the primer:

 

1) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose the silver color of the rivets for high traffic areas or areas where paint had weathered significantly. The silver color of the rivets offers excellent contrast to the surrounding paint color. 

9vv8ddq.jpg

 

2) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose lower layers of paint in the rivet pattern. So you don't see the silver rivet color but you see the rivet pattern in the color of a lower paint layer (light or dark). 

Ol7bZSm.jpg

 

3) After gloss and flat clear coats, the rivet pattern will be visible as bumps of paint -- camo + gloss + flat. You can buff and micromesh the surface until it's perfectly smooth to remove the flat coat just over the rivets and you'll see the rivet pattern in gloss colored camo, while the rest of the area is in smooth flat camo color. You can see the effect at an angle to the light and I think it looks great. 

j0HSKrR.jpg

 

That's what I've discovered so far. More experimentation will probably reveal other effects. I'm interested in how you work with them. 

 

Thanks again. 

 

- Jim

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8 hours ago, Hoss FL said:

Thanks Spyros!

 

Yes, the colors are Gunze Mr. Color lacquers. 

 

This is my first time using these HGW rivets and I definitely like them vs. not having rivets for sure. I've discovered three main effects using the rivets applied to the primer:

 

1) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose the silver color of the rivets for high traffic areas or areas where paint had weathered significantly. The silver color of the rivets offers excellent contrast to the surrounding paint color. 

9vv8ddq.jpg

 

2) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose lower layers of paint in the rivet pattern. So you don't see the silver rivet color but you see the rivet pattern in the color of a lower paint layer (light or dark). 

Ol7bZSm.jpg

 

3) After gloss and flat clear coats, the rivet pattern will be visible as bumps of paint -- camo + gloss + flat. You can buff and micromesh the surface until it's perfectly smooth to remove the flat coat just over the rivets and you'll see the rivet pattern in gloss colored camo, while the rest of the area is in smooth flat camo color. You can see the effect at an angle to the light and I think it looks great. 

j0HSKrR.jpg

 

That's what I've discovered so far. More experimentation will probably reveal other effects. I'm interested in how you work with them. 

 

Thanks again. 

 

- Jim

yes you are right! there are many ways to treat them and as far as i can see the way you didi is excellent !

the thing i like the most is that, are not exactly like holes but something like engraved circles (?). like you did in the wing leading edge ,  they give that raised effect plus the fact that they are silver so you get the effect instantly,,

and of course because they are so easy for me ,compared to the riveting method which requires some serious skills and which i have not mastered yet (i am just still  experimenting on mule models..)

 

 

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Finished most of the weathering and started final assembly today.  

 

Here's the finished Henri Daehne prop. What an upgrade from the kit parts. I used the same magnet technique that Thunnus pioneered and it works great.

6jPBTev.jpg

 

The prop blades were first primed, then painted RLM 70, gloss coat, decals, gloss over decals, flat coat, buffed and micromeshed, spatter templates with six or so different Tamiya acrylic tans and grays, streaking with same colors, colored pencil chips and scratches in various wood colors. 

GEKlRzM.jpg

 

 

Here's the canopy set into place along with the fuselage sides weathered to match the photos as closely as possible. I also picked out the windscreen washing tube system, which is clearly shown in the photos of Black 1. 

KQwIypg.jpg

 

 

The exhaust stubs were installed and staining applied. Staining was applied with Tamiya brown/black mix in varying ratios to slowly build up the pattern. I originally was planning to depict the machine completely clean coming out of the refit and repainting, but decided it would look a little better if it looked as if it had been on a few sorties after the refit. Artist's choice. 

V0riYDe.jpg

 

 

The intent here was to depict the RLM 76, 83 and the cross as worn (per the photos) and the RLM 82 and number 1 as freshly applied. The black and white RV band and wave were also relatively unweathered. The DF loop antenna is made from Dr. Pepper can and the other small antenna is a brass rod. 

6R1i7Ot.jpg

 

 

As the RLM 83 was original or perhaps lightly touched up, I depicted a modest amount of scratches and weathering to the starboard wing root area. The scratches were various colors of Prismacolor pencil and the weathering was applied with Tamiya acrylics. The RLM 82 area is intended to look relatively fresh. 

49Bn1V1.jpg

 

 

Here's another view of the cockpit area also showing the wing root area with the fresh-looking RLM 82. 

uIcOJfW.jpg

 

 

Here's the Eagle editions tail wheel. Brass rod reinforces the join between the fork and the main shaft. A brass rod is also used as an axle through the wheel and fork connection points. I was toying with the idea of whitewalls on the tire, but my main reference photo of 210051 shows no stripe, so I decided to keep to the script. 

vxC5IPm.jpg

 

The landing gear was attached using CA glue and the connection is pretty solid. I applied standard stencil decals, added the junction box, wiring and actuator spring, along with the tail wheel retraction wire and brake lines. I also drilled out the scissor holes. 

jGdHsJJ.jpg

 

 

The cannons are Master metal barrels and they are mounted the requisite 12.5mm from the wing leading edge. The gun camera port will get a Krystal Klear window tomorrow. The antenna shown was modified by replacing the kit plastic tape with a section of wire.  

L8hd8aN.jpg

 

Here's a wider angle view showing the drop tank set up, landing gear bays and landing gear arrangement. I elected to depict the drop tank as shown in a number of late war photos without stencils, but with a modest amount of weathering. 

ftWAiSx.jpg

 

 

By the way, the wheels are the Barracuda upgrades, which look great IMO. The hubs were painted gloss black, tires Tire Black and weathering included a pastel wash and Tamiya acrylics as well as dry brushing and colored pencils on the hubs. 

QgkFJvq.jpg

 

 

 

Here's a view showing the installed Eduard flaps, which really look nice. This view also highlights the exhaust stain pattern as well as the rivet pattern on the side of the fuselage. 

EkwfCyw.jpg

 

That's all for now. We're almost at the finish line. Thanks for looking. Comments and critique always welcome. 

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Not sure I'd ever use them but man those rivet decals look super good. You have done a steller job with the weathering as well. The last pic has a slightly sheeny look to the 76 below the cockpit which also captures the look of the rivets so realistically I love it!

 

Cheers Bevan 

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