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Hoss FL

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Everything posted by Hoss FL

  1. Thanks a million. Much appreciated. Sure thing -- post away.
  2. Following along intently. Enjoying your build, Gazzas. My ZM G-14 will remain on the shelf and move a little further down the build queue based on your pioneering work.
  3. It's coming along beautifully, John. Looks awesome. Regarding the paint scheme, I went through a similar exercise with a 1/48 scale Mimetall Dora, Black 4 W. Nr. 500576 and ended up with the high contrast wing pattern and the brown RLM 81 under the wing leading edge, even though Jerry's profile indicated RLM 75. I also based the upper camo on Blue 12. It's always a puzzle. By the way, have you tried Mr. Color Rapid Thinner with their Super Metallics? I've been experimenting with the Super Metallics and have found that Rapid Thinner results in a very smooth metal finish. It's smoother and less grainy than when used with Mr Color Leveling thinner. Loving your build and learning a lot.
  4. Thanks John! Much appreciated and thanks again for your wonderful step by step build logs. I really learned a lot from your 190 experiences.
  5. Your paintwork with the rivets is fabulous! I really like your color scheme and the effect of the preshading. Loving this so far.
  6. Thanks all for the nice comments. And thanks for the comments and encouragement along the way.
  7. Wow! Your preshading looks wonderful. I like that you’re applying the rivets on top of the preshading. Based on my experience, they should be more visible after painting is complete. Looking forward to more paint!
  8. Many thanks for all the encouraging comments. Much appreciated. My rendition of Dortenmann's Black 1 is now complete. Final photos and discussion over at the Ready for Inspection area.
  9. My rendition of Hans Dortenmann's Fw 190D-9 Black 1 is now complete. What a rewarding project. First, I'd like to thank all the LSP members for the encouragement, help and feedback during the project. I'd like to especially thank Thunnus and Duke, who are also in the middle of Dora builds at the moment for their feedback, encouragement, tips and tricks. This was my first 1/32 Dora project and I needed all the help I could get. The build thread is below: My motivation for this starting this project when I did was learning about Jerry Crandall's passing. I have several of his books and artwork and I had been planning a 1/32 Dora. And what better subject than Dortenmann's Black 1. Although it's been modeled zillions of times, it's a fantastic scheme and I needed one on my shelf. To recap, my starting point was the 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 kit. I added the following AM items along the way: HGW riveting set Eagle cals #32-60 HGW seatbelts Eagle Editions tail wheel Yahu instrument panel Quickboost Exhaust Eduard canopy masks Aires Cockpit upgrade Quickboost gun barrels Master metal gun barrels Eduard flaps Barracuda wheels Eduard exterior detail set Henri Daehne spinner and prop kit I purchased several other AM items that did not get used due to fit or quality issues. I used Mr. Color lacquers for the main camo and colors and Tamiya acrylics mostly for details and weathering. Maketar masks were used for the main markings. The wave and stencils were all decals from the Eagle Editions set. My goal was to render W Nr. 210003 just after the February 1945 refit, where it underwent engine work, received a new blown canopy, got fresh RLM 82 paint over the original RLM 75 and received JG 26 trim -- RV band, wave staffel marking, and black 1 marking (overpainting the JG 54 red 1). As the first Dora delivered to the Luftwaffe in September 1944, and having just underwent a clean up, refit and repaint, I was torn on the approach to weathering this beast. In the end, I attempted to match as closely as possible the condition documented in the three photos of the plane at this time, and kept the overall weathering light. I'll point out some key details and takeaways along with the photos. The Henri Daehne prop kit is a huge winner. Details are included in the build thread, but this central addition is very impressive and highly recommended for anyone building this kit. I used Infini-line for the main antenna cable and 0.2mm wire bent to shape for the lead in to the fuselage. The spinner spiral was painted on using Tamiya flexible tape as masking material. The HGW rivets were applied over the primer. I was able to create multiple effects in the wear areas to highlight the rivets. They are obvious everywhere in the flesh but don't show up well in overall photos. The Eduard flaps were nice additions, but I think overall they are a lot of work compared to the value received. Especially since the kit flaps are not too bad. My main reference for the camo pattern was W Nr. 210051, which was clearly photographed from several angles. It was manufactured in the same factory only a few weeks after Dortenmann's plane and I thought it was reasonable to assume the camo pattern and factory stencil detail would be similar. Jerry Crandall's book also has close up photos of 210007 and 210015, which were also helpful. The overall camo pattern highlighted in the previous photo and the one below closely match 210051, with the only difference being that 210003 had RLM 82 painted over the RLM 75 areas at the point of depiction. The Hasegawa kit represents the Dora's lines nicely. With the HGW rivets applied to the primer, my main focus was to keep the subsequent paint layers to a minimum. As this was my first time using the rivets, I was not sure how their appearance would evolve during the painting and weathering process. I found that I could micro mesh down to expose the rivets directly after the camo was painted. In addition, I could micro mesh down to expose previous layers of paint in the rivet pattern when multiple camo layers had been applied (e.g., RLM 83 over 76). Photos of W Nr. 210051 clearly show the scalloped camo pattern on the leading edge of the wings. It's surprising that none of the profiles that I've found include this attribute. It adds character to the model for sure. I originally had planned to keep the exhaust cleaned up and light, but figured it would be OK to reflect that the plane had been on a few missions after the refit. Main camo painting consisted of laying down the base camo, adding fading and shading with lighter and darker versions of the base color, then applying a blending layer. All of the main markings were applied with masks except the wave symbol on the RV bands, which were decals. Weathering started of an oil panel line wash, where the colors coordinated with the base colors for modest contrast. Tamiya black-brown mix was applied to major panel lines, engine and landing gear areas. Spatter templates, streaking and various additional fading, shading and micro mesh effects were applied. Colored pencils and sponges were used for chips and scratches. Note that the intention was to depict the RLM 82 areas as relatively fresh. And I'm thinking that the RLM 83 and 76 and 04 areas may have received a touch up as well. I like the look of the Master gun barrels, but the prop and spinner are the show piece for this build. I attempted to match the camo and weathering shown in the two photos of the port side of the fuselage. The rest of the camo and weathering was an attempt to match the condition of this area. In particular, I focused on the visible wear on the canopy ledge, reinforcing strips, foothold, handhold, buttons, latches, and panel lines, as well as exhaust staining and general dirt and grime on the lower areas. The landing gear indicators are 0.4mm brass rod painted to look the part. The main contour modification was on the gun cover. I used the kit part but heavily modified the shape with milliput and Mr. Surfacer. The kit shape is clearly incorrect. Jerry Crandall's book has some super closeups of the proper contours for this highly visible cover. Along with the HD prop, this cover turned out to be another character building feature of this model. It was a surprising amount of work, but I'm happy how it turned out. Thanks to Thunnus for his clear and well documented technique. I was hoping the Quickboost and Eagle aftermarket parts would simplify the project but they didn't fit. The Yahu instrument panel is a very nice addition. Thanks for looking and I hope you enjoyed the photos. Comments and critiques are more than welcome.
  10. Finished most of the weathering and started final assembly today. Here's the finished Henri Daehne prop. What an upgrade from the kit parts. I used the same magnet technique that Thunnus pioneered and it works great. The prop blades were first primed, then painted RLM 70, gloss coat, decals, gloss over decals, flat coat, buffed and micromeshed, spatter templates with six or so different Tamiya acrylic tans and grays, streaking with same colors, colored pencil chips and scratches in various wood colors. Here's the canopy set into place along with the fuselage sides weathered to match the photos as closely as possible. I also picked out the windscreen washing tube system, which is clearly shown in the photos of Black 1. The exhaust stubs were installed and staining applied. Staining was applied with Tamiya brown/black mix in varying ratios to slowly build up the pattern. I originally was planning to depict the machine completely clean coming out of the refit and repainting, but decided it would look a little better if it looked as if it had been on a few sorties after the refit. Artist's choice. The intent here was to depict the RLM 76, 83 and the cross as worn (per the photos) and the RLM 82 and number 1 as freshly applied. The black and white RV band and wave were also relatively unweathered. The DF loop antenna is made from Dr. Pepper can and the other small antenna is a brass rod. As the RLM 83 was original or perhaps lightly touched up, I depicted a modest amount of scratches and weathering to the starboard wing root area. The scratches were various colors of Prismacolor pencil and the weathering was applied with Tamiya acrylics. The RLM 82 area is intended to look relatively fresh. Here's another view of the cockpit area also showing the wing root area with the fresh-looking RLM 82. Here's the Eagle editions tail wheel. Brass rod reinforces the join between the fork and the main shaft. A brass rod is also used as an axle through the wheel and fork connection points. I was toying with the idea of whitewalls on the tire, but my main reference photo of 210051 shows no stripe, so I decided to keep to the script. The landing gear was attached using CA glue and the connection is pretty solid. I applied standard stencil decals, added the junction box, wiring and actuator spring, along with the tail wheel retraction wire and brake lines. I also drilled out the scissor holes. The cannons are Master metal barrels and they are mounted the requisite 12.5mm from the wing leading edge. The gun camera port will get a Krystal Klear window tomorrow. The antenna shown was modified by replacing the kit plastic tape with a section of wire. Here's a wider angle view showing the drop tank set up, landing gear bays and landing gear arrangement. I elected to depict the drop tank as shown in a number of late war photos without stencils, but with a modest amount of weathering. By the way, the wheels are the Barracuda upgrades, which look great IMO. The hubs were painted gloss black, tires Tire Black and weathering included a pastel wash and Tamiya acrylics as well as dry brushing and colored pencils on the hubs. Here's a view showing the installed Eduard flaps, which really look nice. This view also highlights the exhaust stain pattern as well as the rivet pattern on the side of the fuselage. That's all for now. We're almost at the finish line. Thanks for looking. Comments and critique always welcome.
  11. Hi Spyros - Here are some more photos from Jerry's book. This one shows the bare metal gun covers and flaps. This photo shows the W. Nr. You can see the source of different interpretations. That wing camo looks pretty light to me. It must have been picture day in front of White 11... I think this may be the same photo as the JaPo book. Hope these help. - Jim
  12. Thanks Spyros! Yes, the colors are Gunze Mr. Color lacquers. This is my first time using these HGW rivets and I definitely like them vs. not having rivets for sure. I've discovered three main effects using the rivets applied to the primer: 1) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose the silver color of the rivets for high traffic areas or areas where paint had weathered significantly. The silver color of the rivets offers excellent contrast to the surrounding paint color. 2) After painting the main camo, you can micromesh down to expose lower layers of paint in the rivet pattern. So you don't see the silver rivet color but you see the rivet pattern in the color of a lower paint layer (light or dark). 3) After gloss and flat clear coats, the rivet pattern will be visible as bumps of paint -- camo + gloss + flat. You can buff and micromesh the surface until it's perfectly smooth to remove the flat coat just over the rivets and you'll see the rivet pattern in gloss colored camo, while the rest of the area is in smooth flat camo color. You can see the effect at an angle to the light and I think it looks great. That's what I've discovered so far. More experimentation will probably reveal other effects. I'm interested in how you work with them. Thanks again. - Jim
  13. Spyros - I'm not sure if you have seen it already, but Jerry Crandall's volume 1 has a number of good photos of White 11. Of note are the bare metal gun cover panels for the fuselage mounted MGs as well as the wing root cannons. The flaps' interiors are also unpainted. In addition, Jerry's profile suggests RLM 75 for the front underwing section, including the landing gear doors. Hope this helps.
  14. Looking great! I love the shots of the cockpit from overhead -- really well done. Your white 11 choice is a very cool scheme. Looking forward to paint!
  15. Spinner looks great! The Oramask material is the same as Maketar uses for their masks. I used Maketar masks for the main markings on my Dora -- I agree with your comments -- good stuff. I'll have to try this technique -- next time! lol.
  16. Thanks for the review, John. I have this kit in the stash also and I'm on the lookout for a good scheme and an interesting way to build it. No skins on one half? All hatches and covers and access panels open? I've built the Revell, Hasegawa and Eduard 1/32 109 kits, but I've never built a ZM kit of any type. I'm trying to come up to speed before I commit to a scheme and start building.
  17. Thanks again for the comments. Made some more progress today. The decals (mostly stencils) are all on and the panel line oil wash is complete. After the decals were dry I applied a gloss coat over each of the decals to seal them in before the wash. For the wash, I used Abteilung oils coordinated with the base color for each area. Payne's gray was used for the RLM 76 areas; Dark green for RLM 82, Burnt umber/black mix for the RLM 83 areas; Sand for the RLM 04 yellow areas; and black for control surfaces. I find that aligning the panel line colors with the camo colors helps intensify the base color and creates a panel line that looks natural in the same color family as the main color. Work continues. Thanks for looking. Comments and critique always welcome.
  18. Thanks all for the the comments. Well, that Henri Daehne spinner near my paint station has been staring at me for weeks. I finally tackled it today while the decals dried on the airframe. Attempt #1 - prime and paint spinner white, use thin strips of Tamiya yellow tape to mask the white stripe, apply Maskol in between tape strips, paint black. Result - Fail - paint edges showed kinks in the yellow tape and the white stripe was too narrow. Alcohol bath to strip paint. Attempt #2 - prime and paint spinner white, same approach as # 1 but with thinner strips of tape. Result - Fail - poor masking and crooked edges. Alcohol bath to strip paint. I then decided I would simply try the decal supplied in Eagle Editions #60. So I primed then painted the spinner gloss black and added a gloss clear coat. Attempt #3 - The decal would probably have worked fine on the kit spinner, but the HD spinner shape is slightly different so the decal did not want to conform. I probably could have made it work after a million tweaks with Microsol, but I decided it still would not look quite right. Result - Fail. I decided that Tamiya flexible tape could provide the answer. I've used this many times for spinner spirals by using as single piece of tape for masking the stripe. The new twist was to cut two wedges of the tape, each one to mask the boundary of the stripe, then apply Maskol in between. The little curl at the tip of the spinner can be rendered well with very thin slices of tape. And the tape provides very smooth curves. And I had already gloss coated the spinner -- even better. I was a little concerned painting white over black in that I'd need too many coats, but I used Mr Color GX1, which luckily resulted in excellent opacity with a few thin layers. Attempt #4 - Executed as described above and I'm happy with the result. Here are the photos. I followed the basic pattern from the decal with respect to thickness of the white and black areas. Lots of trial and error when positioning the tape. I was able to nudge the tape into proper position after the Maskol had dried to get the curves exactly right. BAM! There was a little bit of clean up required. I created a little ridge of white paint at a border in an area but it sanded out just fine. It's nice to get that spinner ready for show time. Work continues. Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques always welcome.
  19. Nice clean wing roots, John. Your clear explanations for each step are over the top. Thank you! Looking forward to next steps on the build. - Jim
  20. The main camo painting and markings are now complete. Good progress. Lots of rain here in Florida today so a good chunk of bench time. She's slowly starting to come to life. I blended the photos of Dortenmann's plane as well as details from 210008, 210015 and 20051 into the paint scheme, as well as considering the fresh RLM 82 from the refit shop. Interestingly, Jerry Crandall's book reflects newer information vs. what was available when the decals for black 1 were published. For example, the underwing crosses, were the earlier type as well as the tail hakenkreuz, which both had the white outlines on Dortenmann's machine. I micromeshed the areas with the "older" RLM 83 paint to reveal the rivets. Looks nice. I've also painted the the closure tabs red on the fuselage and wing access covers. The red fuselage tabs are clear in the reference photos. I also masked and painted the wing walk outlines RLM 77. The decals are susceptible to silvering and fouling panel lines and rivets and I think they look snappy painted on. I've micromeshed the surface where "older" paint is located to reveal the rivets. An oil wash will bring these details out even more. The numeral "1" was freshly painted, so no weathering here. The Hakenkreuz came out ok with the mask approach. I have yet to apply the wave decal over the JG 26 black and white RV band. The upper window on the yellow tail will receive the W. Nr. decal. I painted some RLM 75 mottles in the RLM 76 area on the tail before masking. I've also painted the trim tabs RLM 23. Work continues. Comments and critiques always welcome. Thanks for looking.
  21. Thanks Matt! I actually painted the yellow tail first and then masked it off before painting the rest. I thought that getting the yellow and white areas out of the way and masked would help minimize the layers of paint. I'm trying to keep them down because of the HGW rivets -- I want to be able to sand down to selectively reveal them after the main painting is complete. _ Jim
  22. Thanks Spyros! Black 1 certainly has an interesting history.
  23. Thanks all for the comments. I've been searching for and reviewing photos of early Dora's produced at the Sorau plant to try to get a better sense of the original camo scheme and other details of Dortenmann's 210003. Although the aircraft was repainted, at least in part with the RLM 82, in Feb 1945, I figured photos of other planes produced at the same time could provide some clues, since there are no photos showing Dortenmann's entire plane. In Jerry Crandall's book and online, I found some good photos of 210008, 210015 and 210051, which were produced in September/October 1944. Here's a photo of 210051 taken in October 1944 I found online. I'm thinking 210003 was delivered looking something like this plane except with the early national markings (with white outlines). Key differences from some of the profiles available are: Black painted exhaust panels, with the paint extended back behind the supercharger intake. Scalloped leading edges of the wings with a high demarcation line of RLM 76. No white stripe on the tailwheel tire. Photos of 210008 and 210015 taken after delivery to JG 54 are consistent with 210051 in these aspects from what I can gather. This may not be a news flash for the Experten on this forum, but I thought it was pretty interesting. I'm interested if anyone has any more Information or thoughts on this. Here's a photo of the main painting complete for the wings. I'm thinking that the refit shop painted RLM 82 over the RLM 75 in essentially the original pattern without deviating too much. Work continues. Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques always welcome.
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