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1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat "Kicked Up A Notch": New eBook Now Available!


chuck540z3

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Sure thing--and I am guilty of the same thing. I think we all are. I think it's also a case of I'd rather be tinkering away on a kit vice mindlessly scrolling the interwebz for a bit about how part a is going to fit with part b. Human nature and gratification maybe? 

 

Only other thing I can think of is to watch the gun barrels. I have a little bit on it in my build--essentially there's variations on how far the outboard gun barrel actually sticks out. Never figured out the why, just noted the differences (some are flush, some stick out). Different build lots? Lord only knows with wartime manufacturing. And something droll that no one but us modelers would car about some 80 years later!

-Peter

 

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52 minutes ago, Nick said:

Thanks Chuck.

I understand the frustrations of a backorder on Hobbyworld,  as I have an order waiting to be filled.

Thanks again 

Nick

 

My only advice is to bug them often and relentlessly!  The "squeaky wheel gets the grease" ;) 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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On 6/11/2021 at 6:42 PM, Nick said:

Thanks Chuck.

I understand the frustrations of a backorder on Hobbyworld,  as I have an order waiting to be filled.

Thanks again 

Nick

HobbyWorld USA has had stock issues way before COVID was ever around. His "butt buddies" will disagree but, it's the truth.

Steve

Edited by A-10LOADER
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20 hours ago, A-10LOADER said:

HobbyWorld USA has had stock issues way before COVID was ever around. His "butt buddies" will disagree but, it's the truth.

Steve

Ditto about Hobbyworld. Have placed 2 orders with them and had some items show out of stock only after the order is paid. And you aren't told which items. Only when partial order arrives do you find out what did not ship. No reply to repeated emails. Will not be a 3rd order!

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Lovely work, as always, Chuck. 

 

Regarding the oil canning and surface roughness, I believe that this can be resolved by airbrushing Mr Surfacer 1200 over the model, but it's best to experiment using the optional parts that you're not going to use, such as the optional wing parts.  Check this out:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpo6mwchzcA  It may give you some ideas.

 

BTW, those parts in the cockpit, D1, 2 & 3 are the fuel fillers for the tanks below the cockpit.

 

 

Looking forward to more progress on this.

Michael

Edited by Dpgsbody55
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8 hours ago, Dpgsbody55 said:

Lovely work, as always, Chuck. 

 

Regarding the oil canning and surface roughness, I believe that this can be resolved by airbrushing Mr Surfacer 1200 over the model, but it's best to experiment using the optional parts that you're not going to use, such as the optional wing parts.  Check this out:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpo6mwchzcA  It may give you some ideas.

 

BTW, those parts in the cockpit, D1, 2 & 3 are the fuel fillers for the tanks below the cockpit.

 

 

Looking forward to more progress on this.

Michael

 

Thanks Michael.  Some of those videos drive me nuts, because the author spends 18 minutes showing you something they could easily do in 2 minutes or less.  It must be a YouTube revenue/# hits thing.

 

I have already decided to use Mr Surfacer, which I recently bought in both 1000 and 1200 "grits", which is a first for me.  I've always been proud that I never use a true primer coat, but even after careful sanding, I will need something to fill that rough finish.  Thankfully the rivet and fastener detail is quite strong at this scale, so my fear of filling fine detail is not a big issue this time.  Now with that decision made, I would like some tips on which version to use (1000 vs 1200) and how to apply it?  ie:  How much thinner (Mr Leveling Thinner), spraying tips, drying time, airbrush clean-up, etc.?

 

Thanks for any advice,

Chuck

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Chuck generally I only use 1200 thinned about 50/50 with my usual Lechler Automotive Hi grade thinner (I dont know if it makes any difference).  I usually pop 1 drop of levelling thinner into the cup and spray at about 18-ish psi.  This is only a rough guide as I play around with the mix sometimes even after that.

 

Thats what I do and I feel you have a very good control on thickness as you go.  Let it cure for at least 24hrs  (even thought it is touch dry pretty much straight away)as I find the surface kinda shrinks for want of a better word.  Often I will spray it and worry about surface detail only to find in the morning it has mostly come back.  The beauty of having it thinned so much is you dont fill any surface detail if you're careful.  I try and have the surface as perfect as I think I can before spraying to check what final finish/shapes will look like as I sometimes have difficulty (like on the Phantom) seeing all the complexities of a shape when the surface is full of filled panel lines and multiple trype's of epoxies and CA.

 

I clean up my airbrush with a General Purpose thinner, and all good.  

 

HTH, Cheers

Anthony

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Chuck

As usual, Im taken by your fastidious work and just as importantly, the attention you give every detail followed by flawless execution. Always crisp, well thought out, and pristine. It doesnt get any better.

 

Looking forward to your next update...

Best

Geoff

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