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Everything posted by Dpgsbody55

  1. Thanks to the still missing gun cowling, this project has stalled. I'm not yet ready to consign it to the shelf of doom, but the delay in obtaining the missing part is very frustrating. I'm presently waiting on a delivery from Hannants and I'm hopeful that they've included said missing part which they say they've received from H2K with that delivery. If not, we shall be having words........ I have made a tiny bit of progress, however, and the machine guns have now been installed, with a little extra wiring added. I used the engine cowl to set the appropriate alignment, and both can be seen directly through the apertures. As I've mentioned before, I have an old Hasegawa 109E and had visions of using the gun cowl from that. But there's an issue or three. Thankfully, I've had a very generous offer from a member here to cast a resin part, but I'd rather wait until I see what arrives from Hannants either this week or next. If someone is gracious enough to make such an offer, I'd rather not waste their time until all other avenues are exhausted. There's still a few more parts to add to the model before I can begin painting, too, but one way or another, I intend on finishing this. It's just a question of when. In the meantime, I'm starting a model for the Nocturnal Activities GB. Cheers, Michael
  2. Congratulations. That's quite an achievement. What have you been flying?? One thing to remember. It is said that a good landing is one that you can walk away from. But remember, a great landing is one where you can use the plane again . Cheers, Michael
  3. As my H2K 109E build has ground to a halt due to a still missing cowling, I'm going to put it aside for the moment (not yet ready to mention shelves of doom yet) and start another. I said I'd support this GB when it started and if I don't start now, it will be too late to finish in time. So here goes with a kit that has been a long term stash resident, which will be finished as a MkIIc nightfighter. I'll be adding these to the build. I've built the Hurricane MkI version of this kit seven years ago, which was the second model I put up on this forum. I said at the time that I wasn't hugely impressed with the model as it has some silly errors, and this is why the kit has remained in the stash all these years. I still think the Airfix MkI is better, and one of these has been swinging from my ceiling for a long, long time. I think this is about 30 years old. So now it will come down from there and in all likelyhood, it's place will be taken by the Trumpy MkI. I have thoughts of trying to fit the engine from this to the MkIIc I'm about to start, so to that end I've been doing some comparisons between the two. I will have to use the Trumpeter kit engine mount and bulkhead as the Trumpy kit is wider by about 3mm. I'll also have to use the Trumpy prop as the spinner is smaller in diameter by about the same amount. Then there's the question of how much of the cowlings I can cut away as mounting points are cast into the back of each rear engine side cowl. This is the look I want. ..... In more appropriate colours, of course. The exhaust positioning in relation to the Trumpy kit's exhaust opening is crucial, as is the prop shaft being dead centre of the very front opening in the fuselage. The Trumpy engine mounts are slightly longer which is correct as MkII Hurricanes were slightly linger in the nose than MkI's. However, they're not correctly shaped as the lower brace on each side mounts further out on the wing spar. So I've built up the Trumpy engine block and engine mounts just to get a start as to where the Airfix engine mill mount. I know the engine height is correct from experimentation with an even older Airfix Merlin. It's now a question of correct fore/aft placement. So my next step is to wreck the Airfix Hurri and see if it mounts as I hope. If not, then this idea will be abandoned and I'll go with the crude stock engine and engine mount, and simply close up the cowlings. Other parts from the Airfix Hurricane will be used in the build anyway, and spare parts are always useful. One other thing I did on the 2015 build was to fabricate some of the rear fuselage structure. This gives you the idea. So I've also fabricated the sides of the Warren trusses that formed the basic fuselage structure. I won't be going all the way to the tail as that part can't be seen. This pic is about life size, so you get the idea. Cheers, Michael
  4. I've noticed the same thing with how my address in Australia is formatted on their site. However, orders get here reliably, and usually very quickly too. One more thing, if I can deviate from the subject a little. ZM's site is currently updated with a heap of upcoming releases and re-releases. I'll be lodging a pre-order today . Cheers, Michael
  5. Curtiss were well known for the colour variations on the P-40. It was almost a case of them nipping down to the nearest hardware store for a paint re-stock. RAF Sky on Supermarine built Spitfires was a little more blue than anyone else's Sky. As to the Luftwaffe, as the situation there became more desperate, factories simply painted their planes in whatever they could lay their hands on. Cheers, Michael
  6. My own take on this is that it depends on where the planes were based. If we're talking about western Europe or the UK, fading and dirt would largely be light. Grass fields or airfields with paved taxiways and parking areas were not likely to see much fading and dirt. These sort of areas had good maintenance facilities so it's likely the the planes would be much less grubby and scratched up than a plane operated from dusty, sandy places such as the Western Desert or south west Pacific or some muddy outpost on the eastern front. Such places are likely to see a much greater rate of dirt and scratching from grubby boots clambering all over the machine, or faded paint in hot sunny climates. Paints were much more susceptible to fading back then as they weren't as UV resistant as today's offerings. Japanese paints in particular come to mind here. Also, red paints suffered more too. So in summary, I think the amount of wear and tear should be dependent on where your miniature subject was in operation, and how old or at what point in it's career the model is to be depicted. Quite true and you raise a good point. As an example, 1940 109E's were well built machines, as were most F's. Late war G and K models much less so as both production ramped up and more unskilled labour was used. Also, the quality of materials used was sometimes less. The armour glass in these later planes was often hazy and had a smoky yellow tint as these components could no longer be manufactured to the earlier high quality. Castings were substituted for forgings as these were quicker and cheaper to produce and unpainted areas became more common. The latter was also true of allied machines. Spitfire and Hurricane Mk1's were painted everywhere, but by 1942, only some areas had paint, such as the cockpit. However, only some of this can be replicated on our models. A restored warbird is by it's nature a labour of love and these photos prove that. But how you replicate declining quality on a model with a two inch long or smaller cockpit I don't know, other than to paint it thinly over a bare metal finish and maybe apply a dirty yellow clear wash to your 109's armour glass, for example. The same might be said for hurriedly applied exterior colours, but once the camo pattern becomes more complex, then I think this becomes harder to replicate. Well done to those who can. Me?? I'm too OCD and stuck in the "that looks like garbage" mindset to build my models anything other than as neatly I can. It's only recently that I've started weathering. Cheers, Michael
  7. Just come across some really great photos during a flight sim search. The plane in question is an Erla built G-6 that was on display at this years EAA Oshkosh air show. The plane is said to be very accurately restored over a ten year period, and there's lots of photos that will be very useful to modellers, starting at post #5. Erla built Bf-109G-6 Cheers, Michael
  8. Nicely done. I like your display too. Cheers, Michael
  9. Nice build, and good to see an ME-410. Cheers, Michael
  10. Some wonderful work here, and very inspirational. I think this needs another e-book to be written about this build. Cheers, Michael
  11. Just one thing to remember if anyone is considering using this particular display case. Don't put it anywhere that catches direct sunlight coming in through your windows. This happens. Some types of clear plastic don't tolerate exposure to direct sunlight. Unfortunately, this gets the early morning sun straight through my computer room window. It's just that one spot. The display boxes above and below are all OK. Cheers, Michael
  12. My Fiat is at last under cover, and I've made an attempt at a diorama using bits I had about the place, plus some grass bought today. It's now housed in a display case by Master Tools, which I think has something to do with Trumpeter. The case measures 316mm x 276mm x 136mm, so smaller WW2 LSP's will fit. As I am able, I'll make some more improvements to this such as possibly a pilot or mechanic figure. It would be nice to add something like a Kubelwagen, but the display case is a bit small for that. Unless I can find a bigger case!! Cheers, Michael
  13. If I can be excused for resurrecting a finished project, I've made my first step into the world of dioramas which fellow modelers here may be interested to see. I've bought two of Master Tools display cases, as a few of my LSP collection are small enough to encase them. The cases I've bought are their case number 09808 which measure 12 1/2in long by 10 7/8in wide by 5 3/8in high. Or 316mm x 276mm x 136mm and these seem to be the biggest I can find in Australia. This was triggered by a previous Fiat CR.42 which I finished last year which I put inside one of these cases that I'd bought for something else which didn't work as I'd hoped. That started me thinking about presenting my models a bit better than I have done in the past, as well as the added advantage of keeping some models dust free. When I was up in Darwin last month, one of the museums I visited had replica medals available for sale. I've never seen such a thing before, and unfortunately they only had one medal that fitted with the types of model I build, namely an Iron Cross. I'd have liked to have bought a replica DFC and perhaps a USAAF medal too, but no such stock at the time of my visit. So I bought one of these with the idea of using it to improve the display of this model. Next, I needed something to finish it off a bit more, so today I've sourced a roll of grass mat which is simply cut to size and pva'd into place. Here's the tree together. As I say, it's a first step, and the cases only work with smaller WW2 planes. The biggest one I've tried which fits is the KH P-39. Tamiya's Spitfire is a wing tip too big, but perhaps a clipped wing version will fit. The three Russian planes I have will fit (MiG 3, Yak-3 and I-16) and I think the ICM Yak 9T will also fit. I'm also hopeful that the Z-M 109G will fit into one when that model is finished, which will look better still with the supplied pilot figure too. I guess I'll be haunting other parts of the hobby shop now. Oh, my aching wallet..... Cheers, Michael
  14. Attitude Aviation have released some resin sets to convert the old Airfix 1/24 Spitfire I/Vb into a later marque, including a set for E wing conversion. These may have some application for the upcoming MkIX release. Presently available at Hannants and other places too. 1/24 Spitfire parts Other Spitfire IX stuff in this link too, such as pink Spitfire decals. Cheers, Michael
  15. Nice to see it finished. You've done a great job on it. Cheers, Michael
  16. I tend to agree. It's just a pity that they don't seem to be able to pack each box correctly and reliably. Cheers, Michael
  17. Great drawings. The differences are very subtle for the most part but very helpful. Thanks for posting. Cheers, Michael
  18. Great build, and nicely photographed too. I like your snowy base as well. I must start doing something like that. Cheers, Michael
  19. I like that, a lot. Cheers, Michael
  20. I bought my kit from Hannants, who have been pretty quick in getting on to H2K, who in turn seem to have been rather unhelpful. Hannants supplied them with my address so that they could send it on to me, but they said no and would send it on to Hannants with their next shipment to them for Hannants to send it on to me. Still waiting, and it's an important part. So now I'm in the position where I'm going to add the last parts needed prior to painting, then put the model aside and commence painting when/if I get the part. The model itself is great, but since there seems to be a high incidence of missing or wrong parts in the box, I'm increasingly unlikely to want to buy another. This is a shame, as I'd love to build their E-7, but there's plenty of other great kits out there to occupy my time. Ultimately, this type of problem is the manufacturer's problem, not the distributor's or retailer's. Kudos to Hannants for trying to help out. Minus 10 out of 10 points to H2K. Cheers, Michael
  21. Oh well. I guess that means I don't have to rush out and buy it on day one. I agree with John Stambaugh. Aftermarket enhancements are a must in LSP scales, doubly so as the scale gets bigger. Cheers, Michael
  22. Ripped all the supporting tape off it this morning and took a few shots. Happily, there's only a little clean up needed and everything aligns OK. With the engine cowl fitted. This fits on nicely, so I've got all the alignment right in the end. In this closer shot, you can see a slight gap between the fuselage and lower engine cowl, but a little carefully applied filler should fix that. I can't fit the cowl behind, as that is the part I'm missing. I'll be chasing this up later on today. That's it for the moment. Cheers, Michael
  23. Lovely engine. You've done a great job on that . Cheers, Michael
  24. Progress has been very slow over these last couple of weeks, in part because I'm still waiting on the missing gun cowl which discourages enthusiasm for the build, and also thanks to new controllers for my flight sim. However, it is starting to look like a 109E-3 now. The canopy was the next part to go on, and if you've followed any of my previous builds, you'll know I like to be able to open and close canopies etc. I'd already let in two hinge pins into the right side of the fuselage so how the canopy itself was notched to accommodate those pins, and a length of 0.5mm plastic rod then passed through both hinge pins. After a little experimentation, the outside of the canopy was slightly chamfered on the canopy framing to help with the tilt and a length of white tape placed inside to mask where I wanted to paint the inside of the canopy to blend all this in. Then the canopy was glued to the rod and left to set in place. Once that has set, the rod was cut down to allow the fitting of the windscreen and aft glazing, and the hinge painted. Here it is complete. Next, I painted the canopy framing in RLM02. I paint the outsides of the canopy with the inside colour because I'm not clever enough to make masks to fit the insides properly. It looks better than just painting the exterior colours. Then I added added some wiring to that box on the gun magazines. Not sure what it's for, but it corresponds with pictures I've seen. After this, I turned my attention back to the engine. When I came to test fitting the lower cowling to the radiator, I found that I fitted the ducting wrong way round . So the radiator was prized off the bottom of the engine and that ducting fitted properly, and this time into the lower engine cowl, not back to the engine as per the instructions. I did it this way, not as per the instructions, to make sure the cowl and ducting all lined up from the outside view. There's a lot of parts on the lower engine that have to go in exactly the right spot, or nothing lines up when you add the cowlings and engine to the rest of the plane. I tested refitting this assembly back into place on the oil lines on the bottom of the engine, and it all lined up OK, so I turned my attention back to the engine itself. The instructions have you fitting the exhausts into the left and right covers then fitting these to the engine but there's very little to attach the exhausts to, and only at the back. So I decided to fit the exhausts to the engine along with the engine mounts. Here it is at that point. The covers get attached later, as you'll see. The right side engine mount had some pipework molded in, so this was painted in and the pipes extended to some sort of actuator which I think is for the pitch control on the propeller. The last of that will be fitted later. I may also make the small coolant pumps that go on either side of the block, which are plumbed into the header tank. That is also for later. At this point, I decided to paint the three lower cowling pieces before attaching them. This will help ease the masking of the exhausts when the model is fully painted. Then the lower cowl/radiator assembly was glued carefully into place, being very careful to ensure all pins had engaged properly. After this had dried, I attached the right exhaust cover only to find I had an alignment problem. Remember, that lower cowl is attached to the pipework you can see poking out at either end. The blue cowl taped in place aligns properly with the locating tabs, so I can only assume that I've bungled the fitment of the pipework that goes onto the bottom of the engine. That being the case, I spent some time pushing the cowl up into place against the exhaust covers which are glued to the lower pat of the header tank and again to the rear of the exhaust piece. Part of the engine cover has been molded on to the exhausts, so these were also painted blue to match, and the exhaust covers glued carefully to that with quick setting CA. The part was left to dry like this for twenty four hours before the other side was fitted, which test fitting showed no strange gaps. This was also fitted to the header tank and exhausts, as well as the right half, and a small cover (part B22) was fitted between the two halves. Then I drizzled some Tamiya extra thin glue around the front edge of the lower cowl and pushed it properly into place, taping it tightly to preserve the positioning. Here's the left side. And the ill fitting right side, looking a lot more respectable. My next task was to spend a little time tidying up the joins, so a little putty was applied and later sanded. I will also apply a little Mr Surfacer to finalise that after I've checked the joint between the lower cowl and the wing. Tonight, I've glued the engine onto the rest of the model, so now it looks like a 109E. This is where the model is at present. Tomorrow, I'll remove that tape and see if it has kept the position in which I glued it. I know others have had problems here, so we'll see how mine turns out. This is why I've left it sat on the engine to discourage any movement. It's also taped tightly on the bottom. My next jobs will be to fit the guns and main engine cowl, build up the prop but not fit it yet, finish those last engine details I mentioned, and add the last few parts like the aerial before arriving at the paint stage. If the gun cowl has arrived by then, that is. Cheers, Michael
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