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Hawkwrench

1/35 KH MH-60L "Super 63"

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For a glassy look, I guess the best is using two part auto clear gloss varnishes. They give a nice depth and glossy look to glass panels. You can drop a miniscule amount of varnish on each panel with a toothpick. Varnish has an excellent holding capability to vertical surfaces so it will not flow over the matt surface.

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Hi Tim

 

Simulating glass covered instruments is almost always  tricky to get realistic. Since WW2 many instrument glass faces were covered by an anti-reflective coating. Looking dead on the glass is not seen and the instrument has a matt or semi gloss appearance. Looking from the side the glass is visible. Even muli-function displays differ . The older generation were glass smooth but the later ones have a satin coating. In some aircraft some instruments had an anti-reflective coating and others not.

 

I would satin coat and see if any instruments need a gloss coat. Of coarse the effect of all the instruments gloss coated looks great even if not totally realistic.

 

BTW great subject. I have read the book and must have watched the movie five times. One of my all time favorite movies.

 

Nick

 

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On 3/24/2020 at 3:05 AM, Hawkwrench said:

Should I spray a flat coat on or not?

I think you can leave the IP as is, regarding the lack of flat, it already seems flat to me. The glass might do with a bit of semi-gloss, it strikes a good balance between to shiny and not enough, that's just my opinion anyway. The one thing I would consider, is a dusting of find sand, getting between all the panels an switches, and once it gets in, it near impossible to clean out. If done with enough subtlety, it will really make the IP pop!

 

She looks amazing so far, keep it going!

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

 

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Tim,

First, before coating your dials with either choice you decide you need to dry brush your IP in order to make the details pop out. I would personally use clear resin in the dials to simulate glass but gloss finish is also an option.  Good luck.

 

Oliver

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2 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Anthony, I never thought about sand in and on the panels. May have to try it.

 

Tim

stay away from silver or white. I would do a Buff Titanium  oil paint. Remember light application. You only want to accent and not paint.

 

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5 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

Anthony, I never thought about sand in and on the panels. May have to try it.

 

Tim

I would defer to the experts, but my experience with the Blackhawk as a passenger, and by some images I remember, that stuff gets everywhere. Once in the nooks and crannies, it never comes out. They don't call it "dust off" without reason.  

 

Another note, one of my NCO's was practical about even our rifles and other weapons and machines. He said it simply as "these are machines, they are supposed to be dirty", continuing on, he thought it was ridiculous to expect our M4's and other gear to look brand new between cleanings. To me, he was the most logical of all. The white glove routine after having run hundreds of rounds through a weapon, was just silly and impossible, especially the star chamber of the AR-15 class of rifles.

 

Our HMMWV (Humvee) was no different, no matter how hard we tried, using basically a fire hose, once dried, the dirt and sand would magically appear again. I don't think they would even try that high volume and pressure hose on the delicate IC of a Blackhawk. If they did, I know I would not want to fly in it again! 

 

That said, you and the rest of the gang have far more experience than I do, so my idea should be taken with the second opinion considered for certain. But a very powdery light sand that wipes away from the high areas, should give the effect I am talking about. No matter what you choose to do, I am sure it will look great!  

 

I wonder if the company that sells those dials, ANYz Models, is ready for the business it is about to receive, I know I already have plans to order quite a few of their products.  

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

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1 hour ago, Hawkwrench said:

instrument decals are made by Airscale.

I did not realize that, very nice. The IP has great relief details, on such big kits, almost a must, especially if they are open. I have eduard sets for my Academy kits, and will probably use them, along with the knobs by ANYz, those just knock it out of the park!

 

Thanks,

 

Anthony

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21 hours ago, Hawkwrench said:

I don't have any kind of oil paints. Any Vallejo suggestions instead?

 

Tim

It has to be oil paint. Water base paint will dry too fast and create issues .

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59 minutes ago, Hawkwrench said:

I scratchbuilt the seat release handles and the inertia reel cables from lead wire and stretched sprue.

Very nice work...... I am surprised the Kitty Hawk kit doesn't have much of that detail included though. Hmmmmmm......

 

Cheers,

 

Anthony

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