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Italeri Mirage IIICZ SAAF, FINISHED!!


ericg

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It was SOP to blip the speedbrakes after shutdown to bleed residual HYD pressure to zero. in the Mirage there was no intermediate position of the Speedbrakes. If you pressed the switch Aft through the lock the Switch would remain depressed with the speed brakes fully deployed. if you blippeed the switch the speed brakes would momentarily start to extend. As soon as you released pressure on the switch they retracted. Now after engine shutdown the trick was to blip the sppedbrakes and try to have them fully retracted with zero HYD pressure in the system. if you got the timing right this could be done. If you didnt then the speedbrakes could be left just cracked. The troops didn't like this as it became a trip hazard for them working on the top surface of the wing .... and a head bump hazard for working under the wing.

 

With no HYD pressure in the system the speedbrakes didnt droop open as there was enough friction in the system for them to hold the position when the HYD pressure dropped to zero in the post flight blip sequence. you could with a reasonable amount of force overcome this friction and extend them by hand.

 

So you will see numerous images of parked MIRIII's with varying degrees of speed brake deflection ... just depended on pilot blip proficiency :)

Ah-HA!

 

Systems-knowledge strikes again! Thanks for the explanation. Not being familiar with the Mirage and its peculiarities, the discussion didn't make sense to me as a pilot until now- Thanks for the clarity!

 

Chers

 

Pete

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Hi Kev,

 

It is a compound table that allows extremely fine movement in the X and Y axis for precise positioning of the part that I wish to drill. Useful for accurate drilling and as I have found, able to be used for milling, although the height of the milling bit is a bit hard as the drill press doesn't have a fine up and down movement.

 

Will post pics of the whole set up later today.

 

Eric.

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I got them from here Periklis.

 

http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/categories/Drill-Bits/Drill-Sets/

 

2 row down, 50 piece Carbide drill set. They are simply the best drill bits that I have ever used. They are extremely sharp and are very fine. The only bad thing is that they are quite fragile and need care not to impart sideways force onto them as they are not very flexible. They work out to be $1 per drill bit for the set (Australian dollars).

 

Eric.

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So here is a sad story with a happy ending.

 

Upon opening the clear parts bag I was confronted with a pretty alarming sight. The bottom corner of the windshield was broken off and missing in action, almost like it was a short shot part. I considered it unfixable.

 

IMG_8155_zpsreranc9d.jpg

 

Upon contacting Italeri for a replacement, and jumping through a few hoops as far as ordering the new part on the website and with a bit of a language barrier getting in the way of the correspondence, I coughed up the $10 AUD to have a new one sent out to me. I didn't care about the cost, nor who was to blame for the part being broken, I just wanted it replaced so that I could move on with the build.

 

20 days later, I opened the small box containing the replacement windscreen and was confronted with an equally alarming sight, this time the part was snapped in half.......... with a cry of `Oh for F^&% sake' I almost consigned the build to the shelf of doom.

 

IMG_8158_zps0mt0gl5t.jpg

 

I sadly pondered the pile of broken Mirage windscreens in front of me. Rather than seeing a problem, I was starting to see a solution.

 

IMG_8174_zpsv0aquuky.jpg

 

Rather than go through the hassle of getting yet another one, I decided to fix what I had. It would be quicker, and less trouble in the end. I made some strategic cuts with the finest razor saw that I own straight through the middle of one of the frames on both windshields.

 

IMG_8175_zpsodsm8imz.jpg

 

I then super glued both new parts together, then polished the combined part until it was as good as new. Problem solved! Apart from the small chip on the outer frame that I will clean up later, it is impossible to tell the difference between this one and one that is brand new.

 

IMG_8188_zps1d7fcvfw.jpg

 

IMG_8187_zpsxerimypo.jpg

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Well done Eric - great save!

 

I find half the battle is pushing on through setbacks like this - rather than shelving a project. You've pushed on with great results!

 

Just got my second kit in the post for a mag article - need to go check the canopies I have in both kits now...

 

Iain

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Guest Peterpools

Eric

Very well done and glad you were able to pull off the repair, as many of us would still be looking at a pair of broken canopies.

Shame on Italeri for crappy customer service in my opinion. Broken parts do happen but on a new kit, they should have been replaced, cost free including shipping, as their market is world wide. But to charge you $10 AUD takes nerve and then the replacement part shows up in the same condition. It must have cost Airfix a small fortune replacing the bad 1/24 Typhoon canopies; I emailed and received a replacement with in 10 days or so and questions asked, at no cost. I've had problems with Tamiya kits (mostly my fault) including a bad set of Viper decals and in each case the items were replaced quickly and at no cost. I've such excellent customer service with Eduard and Paul Fisher as well. In not one instance was I ever asked to pay. Now this is what customer service should be.

Peter

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HI 

 

you are not alone to experiment this kind of trouble , I already know two guys who got the same ..... I still think that this kit is not as great as one could expect. too much issues here and there ...nice fixing anyway 

Alain

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