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Italeri Mirage IIICZ SAAF, FINISHED!!


ericg

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Here is the very poor fit of the nose vs the fuselage. This has taken some work to rectify, but here it is dry fitted together.

 

IMG_7988_zpsaekeaj9n.jpg

 

IMG_7995_zpslrnpxh3x.jpg

Eric,

 

Very nice work indeed so far. I may have missed something, but how did you fix the fit of the nose/radome to the fuselage? It doesn't look like you just sanded the heck out of it, so what did you do?

 

Thanks!

 

Michael

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Here are my thoughts on the speed brakes.

 

Yes, there is a massive hole in the wing with no 'wells' so to speak. I think that unless you want to pose them fully open then there will be no need to worry about modifying the kit. They were either closed fully or just cracked open on the ground in the pictures that I have seen of the real thing. If you have them slightly open, then there would be no way to ascertain that there is no detail or even that there is a hole in the wing to viewers of your model.

 

Eric.

It was SOP to blip the speedbrakes after shutdown to bleed residual HYD pressure to zero. in the Mirage there was no intermediate position of the Speedbrakes. If you pressed the switch Aft through the lock the Switch would remain depressed with the speed brakes fully deployed. if you blippeed the switch the speed brakes would momentarily start to extend. As soon as you released pressure on the switch they retracted. Now after engine shutdown the trick was to blip the sppedbrakes and try to have them fully retracted with zero HYD pressure in the system. if you got the timing right this could be done. If you didnt then the speedbrakes could be left just cracked. The troops didn't like this as it became a trip hazard for them working on the top surface of the wing .... and a head bump hazard for working under the wing.

 

With no HYD pressure in the system the speedbrakes didnt droop open as there was enough friction in the system for them to hold the position when the HYD pressure dropped to zero in the post flight blip sequence. you could with a reasonable amount of force overcome this friction and extend them by hand.

 

So you will see numerous images of parked MIRIII's with varying degrees of speed brake deflection ... just depended on pilot blip proficiency :)

Edited by TTail
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It was SOP to blip the speedbrakes after shutdown to bleed residual HYD pressure to zero. in the Mirage there was no intermediate position of the Speedbrakes. If you pressed the switch Aft through the lock the Switch would remain depressed with the speed brakes fully deployed. if you blippeed the switch the speed brakes would momentarily start to extend. As soon as you released pressure on the switch they retracted. Now after engine shutdown the trick was to blip the sppedbrakes and try to have them fully retracted with zero HYD pressure in the system. if you got the timing right this could be done. If you didnt then the speedbrakes could be left just cracked. The troops didn't like this as it became a trip hazard for them working on the top surface of the wing .... and a head bump hazard for working under the wing.

 

With no HYD pressure in the system the speedbrakes didnt droop open as there was enough friction in the system for them to hold the position when the HYD pressure dropped to zero in the post flight blip sequence. you could with a reasonable amount of force overcome this friction and extend them by hand.

 

So you will see numerous images of parked MIRIII's with varying degrees of speed brake deflection ... just depended on pilot blip proficiency :)

 

Glad someone said this. this is exactly what i wrote before and people thought i sounded weird lol

Thanks for clearing things up !

K

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Glad someone said this. this is exactly what i wrote before and people thought i sounded weird lol

Thanks for clearing things up !

K

Nothing weird about it mate! I knew TTAIL would come up with the answer.

 

I thought that the flat spots on the wheels were a bit soft on the kit tires, so went and got a new toy for my workshop. I have always wanted a drill press and took quite a while to settle upon one which was going to serve this precision hobby of mine. It had to be high quality and price was secondary to what I wanted in the machine. A local online store in Brisbane http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/ had the drill press that I was looking for and after a short drive I was at the guys `store', looking at his large collection of hobby tools. The good thing about the drill press that has allowed me to do other tasks was the compound table that was additional to the press. With a milling bit in the chuck, I was able to complete the following task. 

 

IMG_8077_zpsoqfp5ldv.jpg

 

Before milling the flat spot.

 

IMG_8082_zpsfaqsthc2.jpg

 

After

 

IMG_8083_zps0onkufcy.jpg

 

Here are the main wheels, left hand side has been milled.

 

IMG_8093_zps2arknsyg.jpg

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Congratulations!

 

I have a similiar toy, also with cross table, that provides great help for a number of tasks. Not just drilling rows of evenly spaced holes or milling small parts. It works also great for milling off large resin pour plugs, especially if the pour plug forms the whole backside of a kit part. Pin it into the vise, check to have it level to the ground, then run the milling tool crosswise until you cut all surplus resin off (don't forget to put in use the vertical movement limiting device of the machine), and you achieve a nice and clean surface in no time and without using off a gazillion of sanding sheets...

 

...

BTW, did you face short shot parts in your Mirage kit?

 

Regards

- dutik

Edited by dutik
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Hi Dutik, nothing as of yet. I have got a front canopy in 2 broken pieces though but will save that for a forthcoming thread.

 

Thanks for the idea regarding getting rid of casting blocks using the new toy, will use that for sure.

 

Eric.

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