Tamiya's big Spit

[ChuckT]

Oops! I went back to re read your thread and I noticed you used floquil paints for the pipes. I haven't used them before so forgive my ignorance, but are they water or solvent based paints? Did you apply them via brush or airbrush? Thanks again, Chuck.

[Wolf Buddee]

Oops! I went back to re read your thread and I noticed you used floquil paints for the pipes. I haven't used them before so forgive my ignorance, but are they water or solvent based paints? Did you apply them via brush or airbrush? Thanks again, Chuck.

Hi Chuck, the floquil paints are indeed solvent based and they were thinned with lacquer thinner and brushed on. The floquil paints are getting a little harder to find these days but if kept well thinned brush fairly easily. Citadel acrylic paints would work very well too. Just remember to keep your brush wet with Tamiya thinner and they'll flow really well. The Phantom data stencil sheets I use are from Superscale, product #48-76 F-4 Phantom data stencils white.

 

 

 

 

[ChuckT]

Wow, I didn't think it possible to brush paint lacquer paints! Thanks for the info, Chuck.

[ChuckT]

What paint have you been using for your base coat colors and is it airbrushed on?

Edited April 15, 2011 by ChuckT

[Wolf Buddee]

What paint have you been using for your base coat colors and is it airbrushed on?

Hi Chuck,

 

Base colour for the cockpit is Model Master British interior green straight from the bottle, well thinned, and sprayed through the ol' airbrush. A little white was then added and some highlighting was done, again with the airbrush. Fairly simple really.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

 

[ChuckT]

Thanks Wolf!

[JRutman]

Where is the update man? I need a Spit fix.

J

[Wolf Buddee]

Where is the update man? I need a Spit fix.

J

I'm workin' on it Jerry! I've gotten some more stuff done but haven't had time to take pictures. Right now I'm a long way from home but should be back by Tuesday. By Wednesday I should have some pics posted. I've gotten myself in deep with this project..

 

Thanks for the interest!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

 

[Javlin1]

Bud that is some serious serious pieces of linkage you made It's been awhile since I have poked my head in and I guess I will go back to being an assembler Cheers Kevin

[Wolf Buddee]

Bud that is some serious serious pieces of linkage you made It's been awhile since I have poked my head in and I guess I will go back to being an assembler Cheers Kevin

Hey, you can't be an assembler, I'm an assembler and you're not at any of the meetings, LOL!!

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

 

[Wolf Buddee]

Just to show that I haven't completely fallen off the grid, here's a few pics showing the partial engine assembly fitted in to it's engine bearer and the finished cowl support frames placed in position. The cowl support frames have thin strips of Tamiya masking tape added to represent the anti-chaffing strips that prevented the cowl panels from rubbing metal on metal on the support frames. The strips were measured, cut, painted Tamiya Red-Brown and then burnished down on to the framework. A brushed on coat of Future sealed them on to the framework and provided a gloss coat for the rivet decals that held the strips on. The rivets came from a 1/48 scale Aeromaster decal sheet for the Arado Ar234B. As the spacing of the rivet decals was different than what I needed, most of the rivet decals were applied individually. Time consuming but worth the effort I think. I dry fitted everything together before hand and from what I can tell, the Tamiya tape is thin enough that it will not affect the fit of the cowlings. Time will tell for sure though. I added rivet detail on to the coolant header tank using an old set of Archer Fine Transfer "rub on"r rivets which refused to part from their carrier film regardless of how much I burnished. I wasn't surprised given the age of the sheet. I used the tip of a #11 blade and lifted each rivet individually off of the carrier film and applied the rivets one by one. Originally I tried to secure each rivet in place with a tiny drop of clear paint but when the tank was painted silver the paint drops were very visible and it looked like crap. I stripped everything off and wound up sticking the rivets in place with drops of saliva. Don't ask how I figured this out but necessity is the mother of invention and it worked! I've since purchased Archer's rivet decals which will be much easier to use I'm sure. I've got lots of rivets to add to the oil tank beneath the engine so I'll report back on how they worked. A scratch-built filler cap was also added to the coolant tank. The outer ignition wires have been added to the engine already but they're not too visible behind the cowl frames due to the angle I took the photos from. As I continue on with the engine assembly I'll post more pics that'll show the added detail a bit better. The brass Rolls-Royce emblems were purchased from Tony Bell and I understand he has a bunch more available so if you'd like to add this detail to your Merlin, contact Tony directly through the discussion board.

 

As always comments and critique welcome..........

 

Cheers,

 

Wolf

 

 

 

Edited April 27, 2011 by Wolf Buddee

[Iain]

Stunning!!!

 

Really inspirational stuff - thanks for sharing.

 

Iain

[Pfuf]

who love it great effect on the copper pipe great great work.

Johan

Edited April 27, 2011 by Pfuf

[LSP_Ron]

That's exactly how I did my anti-chaffing pads on my build last year.

 

Looks great.

[Jim Mason]

Wolf,

 

What type of hardware did you use to fashion the copper piping?

 

This is an awesome build. Something to aspire to.

 

Kind regards,

 

Jim