scvrobeson Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 Great use of simple plastic card Derek. It might take some magnifying glasses, so we'll all know that the brake discs are in there Matt Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 21, 2023 Share Posted July 21, 2023 Great work, Derek! How on Earth did you fashion those conical shapes? I see the photos, and I still don't understand. Kev Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 21, 2023 Author Share Posted July 21, 2023 10 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Great work, Derek! How on Earth did you fashion those conical shapes? I see the photos, and I still don't understand. Kev Thanks Kev, Just simple needle files and sanding sticks! (which I use for all my work - I don't use any specialised tools or equipment, just vey basic modelling tools, although I do make extensive use of my digital vernier calliper gauge!). I measure and use a normal school type compass to draw the circular lines, then a sharpened tipped engineering compass to scribe those circular lines. For the internal middle hole, I drill a small hole (with a finger held pin vice/vise) followed by enlargement with a model knife blade - this allows me to widen the hole to the correct diameter using differing sizes of round files. To achieve the inner cone, I simple use the same round files at an angle between the edge of the inner hole and the inner scribed line (which is why it is scribed, so as not to be obliterated with handling) until I am happy with the angle shape. For the outer diameter cone, I simple rough shape it with a flat file between the outer scribed line and the outside edge of the disc then use flat sanding stiks to obtain the correct angle. The delicate part was making the raised lip ring on the brake unit (cut from 0.5 mm plastic card, with is only 0.75 mm in width when completed, and eventually sanded down to 0.25 mm when assembled). For this, you need to leave some excess trim plastic outside of the ring and open and finish the internal diameter first (again, drill, open out with a knife and finish using round and half round files). Once this is done, cut away the excess plastic close to the outside diameter and finish using sanding sticks until you have a thin ring. Glue the ring onto the brake unit cone (brake unit thrust plate) and sand on a flat wet and dry surface to thin the ring thickness. HTH Derek LSP_Kevin, scvrobeson, Victor K2 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 21, 2023 Author Share Posted July 21, 2023 Brake units completed. Derek jenshb, SwissFighters, MikeMaben and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroen_R90S Posted July 22, 2023 Share Posted July 22, 2023 Sharp work -that smooth Milliput layer shown earlier is something I always try, but never end up with! I always need MrSurfacer afterwards Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 4 hours ago, jeroen_R90S said: Sharp work -that smooth Milliput layer shown earlier is something I always try, but never end up with! I always need MrSurfacer afterwards Thanks Jeroen - high praise indeed! The key, for me, is good sub-surface preparation (which needs to be slightly rough or keyed), followed by careful mixing of the Milliput itself. My sticks of Milliput are invariably very old and out of date, as I do not use it that frequently. As many have found, the grey hardener stick (standard Milliput) forms a brown thickened hard skin on the outside and sometimes in the middle - these need to be completely cut out, so that you are only using the good inner grey portions. This does not really occur to the green stick (although it may sometimes crystalise slightly on the outer surface, but this does not seem to adversely affect it in any way). It is then important to mix equal quantities of both parts. To do this accurately, I shape them into two equal sized balls, as I find that it is easier to judge the size/amount accuracy this way. Once you have two equal sized balls of each, mix and kneed them thoroughly - this is very important (once you have an even single green-grey colour throughout with no streaks of other inclusions, mix it some more! This should guarantee that you have a perfect application which will sand to a smooth consistency (even then, I still have the occasional soft spots which require further surface filling, but not many). HTH Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 Small details, but they do enhance things - main doors with simple improvements. Derek Isar 30/07, Dandiego, Victor K2 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted July 22, 2023 Share Posted July 22, 2023 Great stuff Derek. How do the main gear doors compare in thickness to the full sized item? The ones on the Flanker weren't chunky enough. Cherrs, Guy Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 22, 2023 Author Share Posted July 22, 2023 51 minutes ago, geedubelyer said: Great stuff Derek. How do the main gear doors compare in thickness to the full sized item? The ones on the Flanker weren't chunky enough. Cherrs, Guy Thanks Guy. Like the Flanker, they are nowhere close to thick or chunky enough in terms of accuracy (merely a thin characterture of the real item). When I make mine, I will have to have a good think about what I want to do with them...I may well elect to scratch build accurate items? Cheers Derek geedubelyer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted July 22, 2023 Share Posted July 22, 2023 Hi Derek, I suspected that. I have confidence that your scratch-built parts will be just as beautiful as the rest of this model. Eager to see more. Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Some very nice detail Derek Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 27, 2023 Author Share Posted July 27, 2023 Underwing strengthening plates. The undercarriage radius rods needed some attention. Apart from adding fastener detail and filling the break joint yoke with a locking jack, the forward rod was too thin and needed beefing up for strength (the whole radius rods is too thin compared to the real item). The tyres also benefited from having the central tread sanded to accurately represent worn tyres. The undercarriage parts so far. Derek Dandiego, scvrobeson, mozart and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted July 28, 2023 Share Posted July 28, 2023 Worn tyres! They didn’t last long Derek did they? Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 31, 2023 Author Share Posted July 31, 2023 Well, it now has legs (and ventral fins). Derek MikeMaben, Cheetah11, Troy Molitor and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Eagle Posted July 31, 2023 Share Posted July 31, 2023 Incredible perseverance and workmanship Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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