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JMP Chevrolet G7107


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More resin truck action. I decided to cut and shim the left side of the chassis frame with styrene stock, which has actually helped enormously in swinging the entire thing back towards straight.




I've also installed the controls in the cab, which oddly don't include any floor pedals. Might add some scratch-built ones. Might not.




With the help of the ICM instructions, I've been able to identify and place a couple of detail parts as well. I'm actually finding those more helpful than the ones that came with this kit! (If you could call them that.) Also referring to the MiniArt ones for some colour call-outs.




Starting to look the part now.



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Very cool!

a friend of mine started a restoration that went a bit sideways on a 46 Dodge Power Wagon a few years ago….is 7-8 a few years? It’s now lowered and twin turbo Viper engine/trans. powered, modern axles, brakes, steering, stainless steel exhaust and hasn’t seen the street yet.

the closest I’ll ever get to a mod. Like that is with a kit something like this.


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Thanks for your comments, fellas. I've been adding some more details to the chassis - mainly on the bottom - and relying heavily on the ICM and MiniArt instructions to help identify and place the parts.






The black spots are rubberised CA that I've used to fill some air bubble holes. It's all fairly agricultural, but I don't mind.


I've actually mostly been building this kit at my desk in the office, while following the cricket World Cup on the computer in the evenings. However, the build will require more dedicated attention from here on out I suspect, especially with issues like the one in the photo below to deal with:




It'll be out with the Milliput to repair the poor casting underneath the fender there. I'll deal with the part I broke off the back of the cab at the same time. It's the suspension I'm really not looking forward to, however, as the pieces are poorly cast in butter-soft white metal, and with no way to attach them in any positive way to the chassis.


I'm off to scratch my head for a while!



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Ah the older resin days.  Brittle, twisted, flaky and many times impossible and impractical to scribe.  

I have two Schneider racing plane kits from that era.  Lovely models but I will recast most of it so I can make the appropriate corrections. Think sanding sandstone.  

keep up the good work



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Thanks, Rick.


Pushing forward, I broke out the Milliput and started attending to those areas that required it, starting with the aforementioned mess under the fender:




In fact, both sides needed a little work, and have now been coated with some Mr. Dissolved Putty - a product I haven't used in ages! It's weird stuff.


I also decided to try to improve the broken chassis frame while I had the Milliput out, with the aim of making it look less horrible, rather than perfect:




And the damaged part of the rear cab has now been repaired:




You can really see in these photos just how crude some of the resin is, but I'm hoping with a little more remedial work and a good coat or two of primer, it will pass muster.


The white metal suspension parts are next, and they're currently recovering from a heavy coat of Mr. Metal Primer. Now I've just got to remember where I left the Araldite!



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Lots of good progress on this one right now, with the Milliput repairs done and a basic coat of primer down:






The primer in this case is Gunze's Mr. Resin Primer. I don't know how or why it's more suited to resin than Mr. Surfacer, but I figured if any kit could use its benefits, it's this one!


It's far from perfect, and there are still a few blemishes to deal with, but at least I don't have to stare at that ghastly yellow resin any more! Next up is an attempt to fit the suspension, along with axles and some PE details I've been totally ignoring.


Stay tuned!


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So, after some more fettling, the suspension, axles, and drive train are now in place:




I used 5-minute Araldite epoxy glue for the horrible white metal suspension parts, and can only hope that it holds! The rear pair are not in perfect alignment, so the axle is ever so slightly crooked there, but not by more than I can live with. I had to shim and pin the rear end of the forward drive shaft with some copper tubing, as it came up a bit short.


I also managed to mistake the mounting lug for the front left wheel for a bit of leftover resin casting block, and promptly cut it off! I had to replace it with some aluminium tubing pinned to the resin axle:




It's not the correct shape, but the wheel fits OK, and most of it will be hidden anyway. Everything looks really gnarly up close, but from a normal viewing distance, it all looks presentable enough.


Next up: wrangling some old school photo-etch!



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I’d say not to fuss too much over axle alignment. I don’t know how many full size real trucks (ok, old bugger trucks) I’ve seen where the axle has slipped off the leaf spring centering pin and allows the axle to go forward of the pin, some as much as 3 inches out of alignment with no real indication of a problem until you look out the side view mirrors and see the truck “dog tracking”  behind you

looking great so far, keep up the good work

Edited by chrish
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