JMP Chevrolet G7107

[LSP_Ray]

15 hours ago, thierry laurent said:

Indeed! The Dodge one will be a step further. In such conditions I'm generally relying first on paper and/or masking tape prototypes!

 

BTW, I finally found back my own kit and it is the tractor version with the trailer. That version was used in Normandy 

What manufacturer was that tractor-trailer combo, Thierry? I just happened to find my version, which is a Chev G7113 1.5ton Tractor & Box Trailer by Alby. Much better castings than what Kev is dealing with, though.

 

Kev, as for vehicle weathering, I use various weathering including some zenith pre and postshading, oil dot techniques, dust washes, rain streaks, oil and grease leaks, pigments over lower surfaces and in treads, light dry-brushing, maybe some scratches and spots of paint chipping with sponging of high wear areas with some graphite treatment on top of that, a little flicking of dirt on the sides and lower area, add a few leaves. Basically throw the kitchen sink at it.  Pretty much what I did on the Pz.38t:

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks, Ray. I've just been weathering the tray on this one, and did indeed throw the kitchen sink at it! Would love some feedback, though.

 

 

 

 

 

I like some of it, but other elements make me cringe. (What look like dark stains around the uprights are just shadows created by the lighting, so ignore those.) I feel my chipping is mostly clumsy, and I think it also needs some red or earth tones. Other than some Tamiya Red Brown, I don't really have any rust tones or products to hand. And since the Olive Drab base coat is Model Master enamel, I need to be careful about using oil and enamel-based weathering products!

 

And yes, it really is as bent and twisted as it looks in the photos.

 

Happy to take any tips, pointers or advice here. Even if not for this build, then maybe the next.

 

Kev

[LSP_Ray]

Looks pretty darn good! I would add some dust build up in the corners inside and outside, maybe a couple of dead leaves (Birch seeds broke apart work great for that) and maybe a few dirty footprints in the bed.

 

I use oils on every kind of paint, thinned with odorless turpenoids(turpentine substitute), without problems. I place the oils on a piece of corrugated cardboard to wick away the solvents for about 20 min, then thin with the turpenoids, and then pinwash. If I want something thicker, I add some complimentary pigments to the oils to build up dirt and dust. For heavy layers of dirt and dust, add pigments directly to where you want them, then wet them with turpenoids. You can speed up drying time with a mini hair dryer on low.

Always good to test first, though. And don't use MiG pre-mixed washes; they use enamel thinner! I found out the hard way, even though I tested first!

Interesting, I tried Mr. Weathering Color. It uses Naptha, so dries fast but does have some turpentine or turpentine oils(?) so don't know what it does on enamels.

 

Side comment: Don't do what I did on the bottom of the Pz38t: I applied pigments to the bottom, but when I went to fix them I reached for the Turpenoid, but accidentally grabbed the similar-looking bottle of Mr. Color lacquer thinner! Oops! Held my breath, but it didn't seem to hurt anything. Changed the tint of the pigments, which was weird, but that was it. It was on the bottom of the tank, so I didn't bother to change anything.

[thierry laurent]

6 hours ago, LSP_Ray said:

What manufacturer was that tractor-trailer combo, Thierry? I just happened to find my version, which is a Chev G7113 1.5ton Tractor & Box Trailer by Alby. Much better castings than what Kev is dealing with, though.

 

Kev, as for vehicle weathering, I use various weathering including some zenith pre and postshading, oil dot techniques, dust washes, rain streaks, oil and grease leaks, pigments over lower surfaces and in treads, light dry-brushing, maybe some scratches and spots of paint chipping with sponging of high wear areas with some graphite treatment on top of that, a little flicking of dirt on the sides and lower area, add a few leaves. Basically throw the kitchen sink at it.  Pretty much what I did on the Pz.38t:

Hi Ray. I got various Alby kits but that combination is the JMP one. Finding such kits even when they were available was not that easy at that time. So any possibility to get the topic you were interested in was an opportunity you shouldn't miss! Obviously I would have preferred the Alby option as their casting was clearly better. For instance their Sdkfz11 and B1bis were absolutely exquisite models!

[thierry laurent]

6 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Thanks, Ray. I've just been weathering the tray on this one, and did indeed throw the kitchen sink at it! Would love some feedback, though.

 

 

 

 

 

I like some of it, but other elements make me cringe. (What look like dark stains around the uprights are just shadows created by the lighting, so ignore those.) I feel my chipping is mostly clumsy, and I think it also needs some red or earth tones. Other than some Tamiya Red Brown, I don't really have any rust tones or products to hand. And since the Olive Drab base coat is Model Master enamel, I need to be careful about using oil and enamel-based weathering products!

 

And yes, it really is as bent and twisted as it looks in the photos.

 

Happy to take any tips, pointers or advice here. Even if not for this build, then maybe the next.

 

Kev

Hi Kev.

 

Ray gave you a very good summary of the techniques you can use but if you don't mind I will add a more general one: think of your historical environment: was the vehicle in operations, just in training, waiting for delivery or derelict after the war? If in operations, where: Italy, Normandy, Germany, Pacific? Which season: hot, wet or cold? And so on. To me this is what should drive your weathering process!

 

HTH

 

Thierry 

[LSP_Ray]

9 minutes ago, thierry laurent said:

Hi Ray. I got various Alby kits but that combination is the JMP one. Finding such kits even when they were available was not that easy at that time. So any possibility to get the topic you were interested in was an opportunity you shouldn't miss! Obviously I would have preferred the Alby option as their casting was clearly better. For instance their Sdkfz11 and B1bis were absolutely exquisite models!

Very true! I always tried to buy the unusual stuff when they appeared because you never knew when they would disappear. I managed to get a couple of Terre Models kits, the BB3 Gun Portee and Renault AMR-33. Have never seen them again. But I have been buying since the late '80's.

[LSP_Kevin]

25 minutes ago, thierry laurent said:

Hi Kev.

 

Ray gave you a very good summary of the techniques you can use but if you don't mind I will add a more general one: think of your historical environment: was the vehicle in operations, just in training, waiting for delivery or derelict after the war? If in operations, where: Italy, Normandy, Germany, Pacific? Which season: hot, wet or cold? And so on. To me this is what should drive your weathering process!

 

HTH

 

Thierry 

 

Thanks, Thierry. At the moment it's just a technical exercise for me, so that I can improve my weathering techniques and get a better feel for the products and processes involved. Generally speaking, I've mainly been quite restrained with the weathering of my aircraft models, so a lot of this is new to me. Plus, since I know absolutely nothing about this truck, I have no idea where and when in the war it operated. The decals that come with the kit are for a military police version, so perhaps that wouldn't be so heavily weathered. But as I said, I'm just using this as a canvas to practise on, so I'm more interested in making it look convincing, rather than accurate.

 

Kev

[thierry laurent]

30 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Thanks, Thierry. At the moment it's just a technical exercise for me, so that I can improve my weathering techniques and get a better feel for the products and processes involved. Generally speaking, I've mainly been quite restrained with the weathering of my aircraft models, so a lot of this is new to me. Plus, since I know absolutely nothing about this truck, I have no idea where and when in the war it operated. The decals that come with the kit are for a military police version, so perhaps that wouldn't be so heavily weathered. But as I said, I'm just using this as a canvas to practise on, so I'm more interested in making it look convincing, rather than accurate.

 

Kev

Ok. Actually in that case logic is better than accuracy! Knowing that producer, the scheme is an ETO one and very probably from the Normandy campaign.

[thierry laurent]

54 minutes ago, LSP_Ray said:

Very true! I always tried to buy the unusual stuff when they appeared because you never knew when they would disappear. I managed to get a couple of Terre Models kits, the BB3 Gun Portee and Renault AMR-33. Have never seen them again. But I have been buying since the late '80's.

Jeez! Indeed they are very rare. I'm also acting as a squirrel since the late eighties!

[dennismcc]

Nice work Kev, a bit of a change from aircraft, it takes me back a few years, I have been dusting/cleaning my built kits and it was the turn of my AFV's yesterday.

Looking at them I might be tempted to build some new ones as I do have a military models stash in the loft.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[LSP_K2]

I don't think I really have a process, as such. I just use what paints and weathering supplies I have, testing on small, unseen areas, and see what I like and what I don't. When I've reached a look that I'm happy with on the model itself, I just stop. For reference, I mostly use photos of the real stuff, as well as photos of the few models that I really think look great, garnering from them any specific detail effects/methods that I like and can use, whether realistic or not.

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks for your input, fellas. I'm happy enough with the tray floor, but I think the outside - and particularly the railings - needs more work. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it, however!

 

In the meantime, I finished sorting out the gaps along the fenders, in a fashion most would describe as close enough for rock'n'roll:

 

 

I also drilled out the solid resin headlights, painted the recesses with a chrome pen, and then used some clear sprue for the lenses:

 

 

To make the lenses, I found a suitably-sized hole in one of my scribing templates, melted the end of the clear sprue enough to soften it, and then pushed it into the hole. I managed to make them two slightly different sizes, but I think they look effective enough, and will certainly do the job hidden behind the grille.

 

Kev

[LSP_Ray]

Looks good, Kev!

[LSP_Kevin]

Stickers!

 

 

I had every fear for these old decals that came with the kit, but I was very pleasantly surprised by their condition and performance. They're screen-printed, and while there's obviously no colour registration issues to worry about, the colour density is quite good, and there's minimal excess carrier film. They slid off the backing sheet quite easily, with no cracking, curling, or sticking in place. There's a bit of silvering to deal with, especially on the large star on the bonnet (hood), but other than that, I'm quite pleased with the result.

 

Oh, I fitted the headlights too. That would have been much easier without the front grille in place!

 

Kev

[LSP_Ray]

Nice! Surprised about the decals! I probably wouldn't have dared use them, but then I have a large stash of Archer Transfers to go to.