Tamiya F-16 Aggressor, Kicked Up a Notch, May 10: Clear Gloss Coat

[chaos07]

Great work on the lights Chuck.  The drill bit in the strobe is genius.  I'll definitely be using some of your techniques in the future.   

 

As a side note, I spent too much time altering the fit of the Kopecky LAU-129s to fit perfectly flush with the two underwing pylons, only to find a gap present on the leading and trailing edges bracketing the step that fits the launch rail.  Not sure if you plan to have those on your build, but I'll have some re-work to do for mine.

 

 

[chuck540z3]

4 hours ago, chaos07 said:

Great work on the lights Chuck.  The drill bit in the strobe is genius.  I'll definitely be using some of your techniques in the future.   

 

As a side note, I spent too much time altering the fit of the Kopecky LAU-129s to fit perfectly flush with the two underwing pylons, only to find a gap present on the leading and trailing edges bracketing the step that fits the launch rail.  Not sure if you plan to have those on your build, but I'll have some re-work to do for mine.

 

 

 

Thanks Duane.  I really appreciate your "heads Up" tips as we build this very cool kit at the same time- in very different directions!

 

As far as the Kopecky LAU-129 launchers are concerned under the wing, I don't seem to have any real gaps with the pylons, probably because I cut the notch based upon what the pylon required rather than what the Kopecky resin indicated.  They fit really well right now and under the wing behind the wingtip launchers, any gap from the side cannot be seen.

 

No real update, other than I have applied a nice thin coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200 on everything  to check for flaws (a few big ones) and mostly to get rid of that snow white plastic!  Maybe I can photograph this build properly from now on with some level of color and contrast balance.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited April 14 by chuck540z3

[chuck540z3]

May 5, 2024

 

Painting begins!  Since this “Ghost” camo scheme is so finely detailed, it will obviously be the focal point of the finished model, so I want to do as good of a paint job as possible.  I would not have even attempted to paint this scheme if it wasn’t for the Aero Mask set, which generally does a very good job, as you will see below.

 

One detail that I painted separately is the front intake lip, because it’s a lot easier to paint off the model than when it’s installed.  While the fit of this lip is quite good as is, it does have some raised edges here and there, so I sanded it down accordingly before painting.

 

The front surface is covered with a radar absorbent coating similar to the radome, so I painted it with the same medium grey color and several pics I have of my subject flying, shows that it has the dark blue paint on the bottom in a rectangular shape.

 

 

 

I then carefully glued it onto the intake, trying to be careful to not have any glue ooze out and make a mess of the paint.  The fit is really good after my prior sanding adjustments.

 

 

 

I can now mask off the painted edges and the entire intake inside.

 

 

I usually don’t use a paint primer, since the enamels and lacquers I use adhere to the plastic quite well without one.  For this snow-white model which is hard to see flaws, however, I sprayed on a few thin coats of Mr. Metal Primer on the metal reinforcement plates and Mr. Surfacer 1200 on everything.  A few blemishes popped out here and there, which were easily repaired.

 

 

 

The “Box Beams” on the sides behind the wings have Radar Absorbent Material (RAM) on them and are not painted in the camo colors.  These were painted with FS36270 Haze Grey as per the Aero Mask instructions, which is the same color as the missile rails and pylons.

 

 

I also painted the Jet Fuel Starter (JFS) door with Alclad Stainless Steel, then masked it off.

 

 

For my first camo paint task, I decided to start on the canopy to get it finished and out of the way.  Other than the canopy latches, the bottom of the canopy is fairly void of detail, although it is missing the handles that are on either side.  Thankfully the Aires cockpit set came with a set, which I thickened with thin CA glue before gluing them on, then painted the bottom flat black.  The seam line on the canopy was removed in the usual way, with fine sandpaper and Tamiya polishing compounds.  My subject has the tinted canopy, but the rear glass is clear.

 

 

I also painted the interior of the canopy glass, which is easier to do without the frame attached, but masked off the sides where the two parts are glued together.

 

 

Glued together, again being careful to not let any glue ooze out and harm the clear parts.

 

 

The Aero Mask instructions call for the paint colors as shown below.  I was surprised that they indicate the color used mostly on the bottom of the jet is FS36628 Light Arctic Grey, because I always thought it was White.  More on that later. 

 

While we all have our favorite paints, I really like the MRP line which is tough to buy in Canada, due to no Canadian suppliers and our ridiculous ban on paints being mailed across the border.  I get paint mailed to me all the time from Canadian suppliers, but if it comes from any other country, it’s against postal regulations.  Stupid.  In any case, this paint is perfect for the task at hand, because it usually covers well with thin coats and dries fast.  The only color that I don’t like is MRP-004 White, which needs as many as 5-8 thin coats to cover.

 

 

After masking off the canopy inside and out, I painted it with the light blue, FS35450, then applied the Aero Mask subsets #7 and 9, using pics I have of the real jet(s) to position them.  This was where I discovered the following:

 

·       You need to paint in light coats and not allow the paint to get wet, which can wick under the vinyl masks down panel lines, etc.

·       The airbrush should always be positioned 90 degrees to the surface and not at an angle

·       Keep paint buildup to a minimum, to minimize raised edges

·       There are at least 3 F-16’s painted in this Ghost scheme, with the camo pattern generally the same

·       There are lots of subtle differences between each jet, where the camo pattern varies, so small changes will not be noticeable

·       While this Aero Mask set is for my subject, 84-1220, some of the patterns apply only to the other Ghost jets, 86-0299 and 84-1301

·       There are a few places where the Aero Masks are just plain “wrong” for all 3 jets, which I will show below

·       It’s probably best to take what the paint masks create and just live with it.  Unless you have pics of the real deal beside you, you probably won’t notice any errors

·       The painting instructions are very hard to understand, so I will create my own which you may want to follow

·       The vinyl paint masks are excellent

 

 

The camo pattern of the whole jet is the mirror image of the other side.

 

 

After painting dark blue, FS35109, and removing the masks.  The paint edges are nice and crisp, with no appreciable raised edges.  I’m leaving the masks on the clear canopy, since I will be spraying a gloss clear coat for decals later.

 

 

Here is what the vinyl masks look like, with a guide for each set.  They are very sturdy and fairly easy to position.

 

 

Unlike the painting instructions, the mask guide is easy to follow.

 

 

I decided to do the tail section next, which has a very curious difference from the rest of the jet.  On the port side- and only on this side, the light grey is used, which is the only place it’s found on the upper surface.

 

 

This light color is masked off with masks “A” and “B”, while the rest of the masks are numbered.

 

 

The light blue is then painted on both sides, then the masks are removed.

 

 

Masks #17 to 19B are then applied.  Make sure to burnish down all the edges to prevent leakage.

 

 

The other side, which is a mirror image.  You need to then use masking tape to cover any gaps.

 

 

The dark blue is then sprayed on, in light coats to prevent paint from leaking underneath the masks.

 

 

The masks were removed after the paint dried, then the entire tail was masked off to apply the leading-edge film, which I painted with the radome color.  Note the little blue rectangle within the first coat of light grey paint, which shouldn’t be there.  While the color looks white in this photograph, it's definitely light grey in person.

 

 

While I don’t have a closeup pic of this side of the tail on my subject, I do of 86-0299.  Here you can see the subtle differences, but nothing should be in the light color.

 

 

The other side.

 

 

As mentioned above, I was surprised that the instructions called for Light Arctic Grey for the side of the tail, but also the entire underside of this jet.  Checking the pics I took at Nellis AFB in November 2022, I think the instructions are wrong.  While the tail does look light grey the underside is definitely white.

 

 

My subject flying, which is a bit harder to see the differences.

 

 

After looking at this pic, my mind is made up.  I’m painting the underside white instead of light grey!

 

 

Well that’s it for now.  My next update will likely be painting the entire model and I’m really glad I started on a few smaller items before attacking this big and complex paint scheme, which should be a lot easier as a result.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited May 5 by chuck540z3

[LSP_Kevin]

Excellent work, Chuck!

 

Kev

[chaos07]

Great start.  I've had a love-hate relationship with vinyl masks, but do like using MRP or highly thinned Tamiya when I do use the Vinyl.  Looking forward to seeing how the final paint comes out - your attention to detail will certainly generate a spectacular result.  

 

The attachment of the intake lip after painting is something I couldn't do with mine, the fit was not all that good - likely because of all the sanding I ended up doing.  Attention to detail certainly pays off - great work.

[Jaro]

Your attention to detail is absolutely stunning! This will be a great model - jewel in your collection!

[spyrosjzmichos]

The painting is really beautiful! 

[MikeMaben]

Impressive work Chuck 

[Neo]

Great work, looks amazing. 

Following your builds is like doing an advanced class in model building! Keep up the amazing work and tutorials! 

 

I did an SU-33 3-tone using MRP a while back and they are the perfect paint since they are so thin they don't leave any hard edges. I used J's marks which was a complete nightmare since the cut on the mast wasn't clean (felt like the blade was due to be replaced) and had to hand trim re-mask and repaint all edges which drove me nuts and afraid to reattempt another, but seeing yours makes me want to have another go 
(hope you don't mind the pics i can take them out if you feel I'm hijacking) 

 

 

 

[chuck540z3]

Thank you Gents!

 

2 hours ago, Neo said:

I did an SU-33 3-tone using MRP a while back and they are the perfect paint since they are so thin they don't leave any hard edges. I used J's marks which was a complete nightmare since the cut on the mast wasn't clean (felt like the blade was due to be replaced) and had to hand trim re-mask and repaint all edges which drove me nuts and afraid to reattempt another, but seeing yours makes me want to have another go 
(hope you don't mind the pics i can take them out if you feel I'm hijacking)

 

Hi Neo!

 

No worries about "hijacking" at all, because we're all here to learn from our shared experiences.  From what I can see in your first pic, the ragged edges on your paint work is clearly due to the masks as you mentioned in a, "What you see is what you'll get", sort of way.

 

My favorite masks are made from Kabuki tape, which is thin and adheres tightly to the model, reducing the chances of paint leakage underneath.  Thin vinyl tape works well, but on more than one occasion I found that the adhesive reacted with the paint and dissolved a bit along the edges, creating a mess.  These Aero Masks are thicker than regular vinyl masks, but the adhesive stays put and I haven't had any trouble with them so far.  The adhesive is also evenly distributed so that you can burnish the edges down to create a tight seal, so I'm pretty happy with them, even if the camo pattern is a bit wonky here and there.  They are certainly better than I could ever create on my own, so I really shouldn't complain.

 

With so many tiny little squares in this digital paint scheme, paint leakage is a concern, but as mentioned above, this can be mitigated by doing the following:

 

  - Burnish down every single edge with a firm but flexible tool.  I use plastic micro-brushes with the brush head cut off.  They are firm, but won't scratch the paint.

  - Try to always paint at 90 degrees to the surface of the mask.  This keeps the paint within the cutout areas, rather than sneaking underneath at an angle.

  - Use many thin coats of paint and don't let it get wet.  While I usually paint with a good wet coat to keep the paint smooth, wet paint will leak underneath the masks into small recesses like panel lines, etc.

  -  Use a paint that's thin, to help reduce raised paint boundary edges.

  -  Use a paint that dries quickly and sets before it has a chance to leak underneath the masks.

 

That's why I like MRP paints, which check off the last 2 boxes.  While I also like Tamiya acrylics and lacquers, I find them a bit too thick for this kind of painting.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 6 by chuck540z3

[Zola25]

Super update Chuck.. great and meticulous progress as always.

 

I usually use MRP Light Artic Grey as white for Gear Bays etc. I think it is far more to the white side than grey and it represents a slightly dirty white look I like. Pure White I find to be far too bright for much practical use other than highlights. 

 

Niels

[Kaeone57]

On 5/5/2024 at 5:38 PM, chuck540z3 said:

May 5, 2024

 

Painting begins!  Since this “Ghost” camo scheme is so finely detailed, it will obviously be the focal point of the finished model, so I want to do as good of a paint job as possible.  I would not have even attempted to paint this scheme if it wasn’t for the Aero Mask set, which generally does a very good job, as you will see below.

 

One detail that I painted separately is the front intake lip, because it’s a lot easier to paint off the model than when it’s installed.  While the fit of this lip is quite good as is, it does have some raised edges here and there, so I sanded it down accordingly before painting.

 

The front surface is covered with a radar absorbent coating similar to the radome, so I painted it with the same medium grey color and several pics I have of my subject flying, shows that it has the dark blue paint on the bottom in a rectangular shape.

 

 

 

I then carefully glued it onto the intake, trying to be careful to not have any glue ooze out and make a mess of the paint.  The fit is really good after my prior sanding adjustments.

 

 

 

I can now mask off the painted edges and the entire intake inside.

 

 

I usually don’t use a paint primer, since the enamels and lacquers I use adhere to the plastic quite well without one.  For this snow-white model which is hard to see flaws, however, I sprayed on a few thin coats of Mr. Metal Primer on the metal reinforcement plates and Mr. Surfacer 1200 on everything.  A few blemishes popped out here and there, which were easily repaired.

 

 

 

The “Box Beams” on the sides behind the wings have Radar Absorbent Material (RAM) on them and are not painted in the camo colors.  These were painted with FS36270 Haze Grey as per the Aero Mask instructions, which is the same color as the missile rails and pylons.

 

 

I also painted the Jet Fuel Starter (JFS) door with Alclad Stainless Steel, then masked it off.

 

 

For my first camo paint task, I decided to start on the canopy to get it finished and out of the way.  Other than the canopy latches, the bottom of the canopy is fairly void of detail, although it is missing the handles that are on either side.  Thankfully the Aires cockpit set came with a set, which I thickened with thin CA glue before gluing them on, then painted the bottom flat black.  The seam line on the canopy was removed in the usual way, with fine sandpaper and Tamiya polishing compounds.  My subject has the tinted canopy, but the rear glass is clear.

 

 

I also painted the interior of the canopy glass, which is easier to do without the frame attached, but masked off the sides where the two parts are glued together.

 

 

Glued together, again being careful to not let any glue ooze out and harm the clear parts.

 

 

The Aero Mask instructions call for the paint colors as shown below.  I was surprised that they indicate the color used mostly on the bottom of the jet is FS36628 Light Arctic Grey, because I always thought it was White.  More on that later. 

 

While we all have our favorite paints, I really like the MRP line which is tough to buy in Canada, due to no Canadian suppliers and our ridiculous ban on paints being mailed across the border.  I get paint mailed to me all the time from Canadian suppliers, but if it comes from any other country, it’s against postal regulations.  Stupid.  In any case, this paint is perfect for the task at hand, because it usually covers well with thin coats and dries fast.  The only color that I don’t like is MRP-004 White, which needs as many as 5-8 thin coats to cover.

 

 

After masking off the canopy inside and out, I painted it with the light blue, FS35450, then applied the Aero Mask subsets #7 and 9, using pics I have of the real jet(s) to position them.  This was where I discovered the following:

 

·       You need to paint in light coats and not allow the paint to get wet, which can wick under the vinyl masks down panel lines, etc.

·       The airbrush should always be positioned 90 degrees to the surface and not at an angle

·       Keep paint buildup to a minimum, to minimize raised edges

·       There are at least 3 F-16’s painted in this Ghost scheme, with the camo pattern generally the same

·       There are lots of subtle differences between each jet, where the camo pattern varies, so small changes will not be noticeable

·       While this Aero Mask set is for my subject, 84-1220, some of the patterns apply only to the other Ghost jets, 86-0299 and 84-1301

·       There are a few places where the Aero Masks are just plain “wrong” for all 3 jets, which I will show below

·       It’s probably best to take what the paint masks create and just live with it.  Unless you have pics of the real deal beside you, you probably won’t notice any errors

·       The painting instructions are very hard to understand, so I will create my own which you may want to follow

·       The vinyl paint masks are excellent

 

 

The camo pattern of the whole jet is the mirror image of the other side.

 

 

After painting dark blue, FS35109, and removing the masks.  The paint edges are nice and crisp, with no appreciable raised edges.  I’m leaving the masks on the clear canopy, since I will be spraying a gloss clear coat for decals later.

 

 

Here is what the vinyl masks look like, with a guide for each set.  They are very sturdy and fairly easy to position.

 

 

Unlike the painting instructions, the mask guide is easy to follow.

 

 

I decided to do the tail section next, which has a very curious difference from the rest of the jet.  On the port side- and only on this side, the light grey is used, which is the only place it’s found on the upper surface.

 

 

This light color is masked off with masks “A” and “B”, while the rest of the masks are numbered.

 

 

The light blue is then painted on both sides, then the masks are removed.

 

 

Masks #17 to 19B are then applied.  Make sure to burnish down all the edges to prevent leakage.

 

 

The other side, which is a mirror image.  You need to then use masking tape to cover any gaps.

 

 

The dark blue is then sprayed on, in light coats to prevent paint from leaking underneath the masks.

 

 

The masks were removed after the paint dried, then the entire tail was masked off to apply the leading-edge film, which I painted with the radome color.  Note the little blue rectangle within the first coat of light grey paint, which shouldn’t be there.  While the color looks white in this photograph, it's definitely light grey in person.

 

 

While I don’t have a closeup pic of this side of the tail on my subject, I do of 86-0299.  Here you can see the subtle differences, but nothing should be in the light color.

 

 

The other side.

 

 

As mentioned above, I was surprised that the instructions called for Light Arctic Grey for the side of the tail, but also the entire underside of this jet.  Checking the pics I took at Nellis AFB in November 2022, I think the instructions are wrong.  While the tail does look light grey the underside is definitely white.

 

 

My subject flying, which is a bit harder to see the differences.

 

 

After looking at this pic, my mind is made up.  I’m painting the underside white instead of light grey!

 

 

Well that’s it for now.  My next update will likely be painting the entire model and I’m really glad I started on a few smaller items before attacking this big and complex paint scheme, which should be a lot easier as a result.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Gorgeously executed!!! WOW, what a nicely done rendering of this Aggressor Viper! Do it to it Bro!

 

Alfonso

 

 

Oh, BTW. It looks that the Blue "chip" is placed right on the fin, according to the photos you show of her. What's off is the Light Gray on the leading edge panel as supplied by the mask. From bottom to top it's too big. The bottom "rectangle" that starts the light gray is to tall which throws of the stencil from jump if I'm being clear? It's clear in the picture you posted. Gorgeous work once again!

Edited May 6 by Kaeone57

[scvrobeson]

Awesome start to the painting!  Takes a lot of forethought to be able to paint the intake lip before attaching it, you're braver than me for doing that.

 

Looking forward to the whole scheme coming together

 

 

 

Matt 

[chuck540z3]

May 9, 2024

 

After many hours of picky, picky work, the main painting job is now over.  Whew!  I’ve never used so much masking tape in my life, as you’ll soon see.

 

Before I start with the descriptions, I’d like to walk back some of my prior comments about the camo pattern on the tail as being “wrong”.  Now that I’ve had a chance to paint the entire aircraft and compare it to several pics of the real deal, I found that about 75% of the masks are fairly accurate, another 20% or so are off a bit (like the tail) and 5% are just plain inaccurate, which is a good thing!  If 95% of the masks  arepretty good, that’s fantastic, especially on a camo-pattern that is so intricate and complex, with so many curved surfaces.  The other comment I’d like to make about the masks themselves is that they are a good compromise of thin flexibility to conform to irregular surfaces while still being thick enough to be moved over and over again without losing their shape or adhesive.

 

The painting instructions have you paint the top then the bottom.  Since the bottom is white and the top is blue, I think it’s a lot easier to do it the other way around.  After you have painted the radome and box beams with FS36251 (MRP-094) and any other antennae and other bits, mask them off with tape.

 

As mentioned above, I went with pure White for the bottom, using MRP-004, which I hate.  It takes at least 6-8 thin coats to cover, but it’s nice and thin and compatible with the other MRP paints I’m using.  Note below that I didn’t load up the central areas with paint, since they will all wind up dark blue when the painting is finished.

 

 

Apply the masks according to the instructions or “Maps” as they are called.  Here you will want to have on hand some good reference pics, because it’s hard to figure out where the masks are supposed to begin and end.  In a lot of cases, the wing edges or other prominent features dictate where they should go, so it’s easy.

 

 

The 5 antennae at the front should be painted grey and masked off before you paint.

 

 

The masks around the intake are by far the most complex and difficult to do, with multiple masks and many irregular surfaces to deal with.  For ease of handling, I cut a few of the big ones in half, then spliced them back together with masking tape. 

 

 

The entire top of the intake remains white, so should be masked off completely using both the vinyl masks and tape.  This takes a long time to do properly, but is well worth the effort when painted.

 

 

The demarcation line between upper blue and bottom white is a straight line from the edge of the LEX to the nose cone.  While the vinyl masks attempt to do this, you’re better off trimming them back and using masking to get a cleaner edge.

 

 Next step is to flip the model over and apply the light blue (FS35450, MRP-240).  There’s no need to worry about masking the bottom, because that’s already been done (including box beams) and any overspray will be covered by the dark blue later.  I painted the fuel filler door and dorsal antenna earlier, which were masked off first. 

 

Add the masks to the top side, which is a lot easier than the bottom.  The only mask that was tough to do was the one over the gun, which is full of bulges, raised rivets and cavities.

 

 

The masks on the canopy that I used have remnants that extend down onto the canopy sill.  These were cut and retained earlier.  To position them, I used the painted canopy as a guide to make sure they lined up properly if the canopy is closed.

 

 

Next, paint the bottom with the dark blue (FS35109, MRP-238).  Again, use several thin coats to avoid paint pooling and leakage under the masks.

 

 

 

 

Then paint the top.

 

 

Now the fun- and scary- part!  Remove all the masks, other than the ones for the landing gear and cockpit.  This reveals how well your masking and painting job worked, which in my case, worked out really well if I do say so myself.  I expected quite a few errors and flaws and found that in general, 80% was as good as possible, 10% was “good enough” and 10% needed a bit of tweaking to make the overall paint job acceptable, as you will see below.  With all that snow white plastic now gone, I can finally use a dark background to help show the details.  I normally use blue, but with so much of that color already, I went with plain black.

 

 

With the masks removed, I then painted the leading edges of the wing and “beer cans” with more FS36251 medium grey.

 

 

That circular antenna on the top looks quite brown in this pic, but it’s really more grey in color and will get dirtied up a bit later.

 

 

Here’s an example of the flaws that need fixing because they are noticeable with paint “blow-out” along irregular edges.  One key thing I found when repainting these flaws was that you are far better off painting more dark blue over white than trying to paint more white to cover the blue, especially with MRP White.  If the little blue rectangle is a bit bigger than the real deal at 1/32 scale, so what, it’s likely not the right size to begin with!

 

 

The repairs.  Did I mention I used a LOT of masking tape!?  Overspray on the clean areas isn’t worth a few extra bucks of tape. 

 

 

The intake area had similar flaws on the other side.  Overall, I had about 8-10 different repair areas over the entire model.

 

 

I have a few pics that show that the gun opening is clearly grey and not blue, and about the same grey as the radome, so I painted it accordingly.

 

 

 

Here’s an example of the 10% “good enough” flaws that aren’t worth fixing.  On the bottom of the leading edge of the wings is a big gap, made even bigger by tilting the flaps up a few  degrees, which creates an area that can’t be masked off properly.  There shouldn’t be a gap of any kind on the real deal, so this is a case of just living with it, especially when it’s on the bottom that is rarely seen anyway.

 

 

The Aero Mask instructions don’t tell you where Mask #20 and 24 go, which is here.  I really like the engine nozzle collar I painted earlier next to the blue paint.

 

 

With all of this complex masking and repairs, I can’t even imagine how I would paint the intake lip cleanly now, especially on the top where there's no clearance.  Thankfully it’s already done!

 

 

I have lots of flying pics that show these antenna are grey and not blue, hence the masking earlier.

 

 

The instructions also have an error on the bottom, showing Mask #36 twice on Page 5.  The rear ones are #32 (not 36) and 40, while #36 is right behind the wing.

 

 

There was some discussion earlier about whether or not to use the Light Arctic Grey (FS36628, MRP-246) as the main color on the bottom as called for in the instructions, which is the same color on the port side of the tail.  Here you can see why I went with pure white instead, because that grey is nothing like what I’ve seen with my own eyes in person.

 

 

It was great to be able to paint the tail, horizontal stabilizers and brakes off the rest of the model for ease of handling.  Here’s a couple of parting shots with them attached.  When I first saw this paint scheme back in 2019 when it was new, I just knew I had to build it one day.  So cool…..

 

 

 

Next up is a good gloss clear coat of Tamiya X-22, followed by decals.  I’m nervous using the Aero Mask decals which don’t look as good as I’d like, but thankfully I have at least 5 sets of Two Bobs Viper Aggressor decals to use as much as possible.  Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited May 9 by chuck540z3

[F`s are my favs]

It really looks like a "smaller" plane now. Tremendous camouflage adventure, and very well done!