1/32 Special Hobby Hawker Tempest V - Fairbanks JJ+F

[monthebiff]

Looking so good John and an excellent recovery on the paintwork. Well worth the extra effort. 

 

Regards. Andy 

[Woody V]

On 5/29/2022 at 2:11 AM, Thunnus said:

I paint the grey areas with Mr Color 362 RAF Ocean Grey. I tried lightening the Grey with white but found that the two would separate as I sprayed, leading to some visibly inconsistent results

 

John,

May I as what white you used? Mr. Color or some other?

[Citadelgrad]

19 hours ago, Thunnus said:

Thanks guys!  Pretty pleased at not only the results of the paint repair but how straightforward it was to implement.  When first confronted with this issue, my mind started turning over options in my head and the idea of using masks to cover the existing markings came immediately to mind.  The Portrait craft cutter is such a handy tool and it makes things like this fairly simple to do.

 

After the re-painted Ocean Grey area on the port side had dried, I re-painted the JJ code.

 

 

I also put the walkways through another round of salt chipping.  The walkways look better but the masks lifted some paint, most notably on the starboard side so I'll have to retouch some areas.  Two steps forward and one step back means I'm moving ahead right?

 

 

Another view of the port side markings.  I've also performed some touch-up repairs to the fuselage roundels as well as re-spraying the red on the port fin flash.

 

That feels better, doesn't it?   I mean physical relief?   

 

I never watched it as a kid, but a line from the A team comes to mind:  "I love it when a plan comes together".  

[nmayhew]

Glad you went for the fix of the codes!

[Thunnus]

On 6/2/2022 at 5:26 PM, mc65 said:

now I understand where I'm wrong: actually I take one step forward and two steps back, according to Lenin's school! 

 

your works are really inspirational, difficult to start a model already made by you without referring to it.

Thank you!  Since I've learned so much and use other modelers' build logs as references for my own builds, it's nice to know that I'm returning the favor to the LSP community.

 

 

20 hours ago, monthebiff said:

Looking so good John and an excellent recovery on the paintwork. Well worth the extra effort. 

 

Regards. Andy 

Thanks Andy!  We are a compulsive and fastidious lot, aren't we?

 

 

19 hours ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

John,

May I as what white you used? Mr. Color or some other?

Mr Color US Navy White C-316.  It mixed with no issues with Mr Color Medium Sea Grey C-363 but didn't want to stay mixed with Mr Color Ocean Grey C-362.

 

 

14 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

That feels better, doesn't it?   I mean physical relief?   

 

I never watched it as a kid, but a line from the A team comes to mind:  "I love it when a plan comes together".  

Yeah, it felt good, Bill.

 

 

13 hours ago, nmayhew said:

Glad you went for the fix of the codes!

Me too but once I mentioned it, I was pretty much committed to doing something about it.

 

After the paint fix, I decided to do a little bit of the post-shading now, concentrating on the bottom.  I use very dilute blackish brown mixes that are sprayed along panel lines and random streaks.

 

 

The model was sealed with a gloss coat (Alclad Aqua Gloss) to prepare for the next step, which is decaling.  Actually, they are wet transfers from HGW but very similar to decals.

 

 

After cutting out the appropriate marking from the sheet, it is applied just like a decal: dip it in warm water to loosen the backing paper and slide it into place.  A drop of Mark Setter goes onto the model before the decal and will act as an adhesive.  No decal softener is needed... just blot out the bubbles and dry any excess moisture.  

 

 

Allow this to dry for a few hours.  Instructions say 6-8 hours but I've gotten good results after only a couple of hours.  You can see the shiny carrier film in the above pic right?  This is what differentiates a wet transfer from a decal.  That carrier film is carefully removed, leaving ONLY the marking with absolutely zero decal film.

 

 

The Tempest doesn't have too many stencils so doing the bottom didn't take very long.  The transfers are numbered in the same way as the kit instructions. This is handy because the drawings in the kit instructions are in color, making the identification of the smaller markings much easier.

 

 

I tested the wet transfers on the flaps, which have a flat finish, and they worked fine.

 

 

I mixed up a small batch of grey wash using pastel chalk and water to test (a) the color of the wash and (b) if the wash could be applied to the wet transfers without any ill effects.

 

 

Seemed to be ok on both counts so I applied the grey wash to the entire bottom.

 

 

Taking a pause here to touch-up some panel lines and rivets before I continue on the top side.

 

[MikeMaben]

Very nice John  

[Nighthawk Calling 1]

This should be quite the head turner when at the shows.

[Citadelgrad]

This is another master class on slowly achieving a realistic finish, from preshading, postshading, pastels, a whole arsenal of different techniques and even materials to get the results we strive for. 
 

thank you for sharing your thoughts, secrets, and even setbacks.  For me, this is like watching you do it live, youre answering the questions i have about the how and why you do things.  
 

carry on, John.  This is really a pleasure to watch. 

[nmayhew]

Looking great as always John!

 

I haven’t used the OneManArmy painted stencil masks yet, and whilst they will be cool for say 1/24 or just large lettered stencils, I can’t see anything beating these HGW wet transfers.

 

Questions on the underside weathering, specifically the staining from the back of the radiator area down the centre of the fuselage… 

are you working of any reference images? Am curious to know whether it was ‘oil streaky’ like some Spitfires, or looked more diffused almost like a smoke stain (although it’s not smoke of course).

 

Do you have plans to add additional streaks etc underneath (dependent on what your ref images say I guess)?

 

Thanks again for sharing your work, it’s always such a pleasure to follow

 

Nick

[Dekon]

Very, very nice!

[Sasha As]

Great sequel!

[scvrobeson]

Beautiful, and I'm always impressed by the speed in which you can work.  I've got a set of the HGW transfers for a future Camel build, glad that they worked so well for you.  They seem similar to the new generation of Eduard decals, which allow you to peel off the carrier film after application. 

 

 

Matt 

[chuck540z3]

Great "save" John!  Left as is, this model would have bugged you forever, so it's always better to just bite your lip and get it over with.  As always, your painting is flawless and doesn't show a hint of the major changes you have made.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

[JayW]

Wow John - that looks so darned real!  I wonder - can wet transfers be custom made?  

[Thunnus]

16 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

Very nice John  

Thank you Mike!

 

 

16 hours ago, Nighthawk Calling 1 said:

This should be quite the head turner when at the shows.

No shows for me!  Actually, I've never even been to a model show.

 

 

15 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

This is another master class on slowly achieving a realistic finish, from preshading, postshading, pastels, a whole arsenal of different techniques and even materials to get the results we strive for. 
 

thank you for sharing your thoughts, secrets, and even setbacks.  For me, this is like watching you do it live, youre answering the questions i have about the how and why you do things.  
 

carry on, John.  This is really a pleasure to watch. 

Thanks Bill!  I've learned not to rely on each individual step to magically transform the model but to stack the steps like layers to eventually get to where I want to go.

 

 

 

15 hours ago, nmayhew said:

Looking great as always John!

 

I haven’t used the OneManArmy painted stencil masks yet, and whilst they will be cool for say 1/24 or just large lettered stencils, I can’t see anything beating these HGW wet transfers.

 

Questions on the underside weathering, specifically the staining from the back of the radiator area down the centre of the fuselage… 

are you working of any reference images? Am curious to know whether it was ‘oil streaky’ like some Spitfires, or looked more diffused almost like a smoke stain (although it’s not smoke of course).

 

Do you have plans to add additional streaks etc underneath (dependent on what your ref images say I guess)?

 

Thanks again for sharing your work, it’s always such a pleasure to follow

 

Nick

Thanks Nick!  I've got a set of OneManArmy stencils for my Dora build that I'll be evaluating but I can't see them being better than the HGW transfers.  As for the bottom staining, it is purely conjecture.  I couldn't find any decent photos of the Tempest underside and only a few of Typhoons.  JJ+F looked to be a fairly well worn aircraft and I wanted the bottom to somewhat reflect that.  But no, real proof.

 

 

9 hours ago, Dekon said:

Very, very nice!

Thank you!

 

 

4 hours ago, Sasha As said:

Great sequel!

Thank you!

 

 

2 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

Beautiful, and I'm always impressed by the speed in which you can work.  I've got a set of the HGW transfers for a future Camel build, glad that they worked so well for you.  They seem similar to the new generation of Eduard decals, which allow you to peel off the carrier film after application. 

 

 

Matt 

Thanks Matt!  I have more time to model now that the kids are adults now!

 

 

1 hour ago, chuck540z3 said:

Great "save" John!  Left as is, this model would have bugged you forever, so it's always better to just bite your lip and get it over with.  As always, your painting is flawless and doesn't show a hint of the major changes you have made.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Thanks Chuck!  It's always good if you can cover your tracks as completely as possible!

 

 

The HGW wet transfers have been applied on the top side.  You can also see some of the post shading I've done on the top including starting the exhaust trail.

 

 

I used a few different colored washes on the top side.  A medium grey for the Ocean Grey and Sky backgrounds, a very dark grey for the Dark Green color and a light grey for the dark blue on the roundels.  I want to highlight the rivets but not to the point of distraction.

 

 

Another pause here as I am almost ready for a flat coat.  I need to check the wash carefully to make sure that there are no residual stains because the next clear coat will lock everything into place.