1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-13 Yellow 10

[Thunnus]

I think it's time to start another build post.  I've got two on-going builds that are having to be paused for the time being.  I am waiting for some aftermarket parts for the G-14 that are generously being donated by an LSP member but they seem to stuck in transit.  No tracking update since April 25!  Hopefully, it is just a pandemic-related delay and not a lost package.  The Tank is in the initial stages of weathering.  I have access panels on the bottom of the wings that I scribed but didn't have the skill/dexterity to add the small latches.  I was going to just leave them blank but I'm now working with someone who's willing to try and make up some small latch decals to try.  Don't want to go much further on the weathering until I get those latches squared away.

 

So... I need something else to work on.  The Fw 190D-13 has been on my list for a while now.  I realize that Milsolav is in the process of applying his magic on Yellow 10 and that BigTimm just finished his amazing rendition.   I am inspired by their work and am hesitant to step on any toes of these modelers whom I greatly respect.  Apologies for the redundancy!

 

The D-13 is an interesting machine in that it is relatively rare (only two operational machines that have been photographically recorded).  However, the one machine (Yellow 10) is very well documented since it was captured by the Allies at the end of the war, brought to the US and ultimately fully restored.  It's well documented photographically but difficult to interpret since the wartime photos are in black and white and the scheme was an unusual, one-off type of field application.  I have two reputable resources available (Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume Two and JaPo's 190D Volume Two) but both have different interpretations as to what the color scheme actually looked like.  Given the room for interpretation, I'm guessing that Miloslav's D-13 is going to look different than BigTimm's and that mine will look different than either.

 

The Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 kit, which is excellent by the way, will be used as the base.  I've collected quite an arsenal of aftermarket items for the Dora since it is my favorite aircraft, some of which are overlapping and won't be utilized.

 

Here is a list...
1. 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 model kit
2. Grey Matter (Jerry Rutman) 190D-13 conversion set
3. Real Models 190D-13 conversion set
4. Henri Daehne VS9 190D-13 prop
5. Eagle Editions 190D cockpit set
6. Eagle Editions 190D wooden flaps
7. Eagle Editions 190D-9, D-11, D-13 tail wheel
8. Aires 190D wheel wells
9. Synthetic Ordnance Works 190D landing gear legs
10. Quickboost 190D exhausts
11. Quickboost 190A-7/A-9 gun barrels
12. Barracuda 190D wheels
13. Eduard 190D exterior details
14. Eduard 190D instrument panel
15. Eagle Cal Yellow 10 decals

 

Like I said, some of these items overlap and may not be used.  For example, if I use the Aires wheel wells, the Quickboost A-7/A-9 gun barrels will not be necessary since Aires correctly represents the metal (not fabric) boots for the wing-mounted guns.  The wheel well details from the Eduard photoetch would also not be necessary.  I won't go into the Hasegawa kit parts since I've done that on my previous D-9 builds.  Next, I'll talk a little bit about the conversion from D-9 to D-13 and how I am going to attempt the modification.

[Thunnus]

Let's take a look at the Grey Matter D-13 conversion kit.  It is a resin conversion comprised of two fuselage halves, the engine cowling, supercharger intake scoop, spinner, prop blades, center fuselage section and the engine bulkhead minus ammo chutes.

 

The parts are molded in light grey resin and upon first inspection, it is a mixed bag in terms of quality.  The fuselage pieces are quite thin and flexible.  The thickness of the parts seem to be similar to the kit parts, which is probably an attempt by the maker to reduce the amount of work it would take to accommodate the internal kit parts. The loss of rigidity may introduce alignment/strength issues but perhaps the joining of the fuselage pieces to one another would achieve an acceptable level of strength.

 

The top cowling has been modified to reflect the absence of guns above the engine.

 

The Jumo 213F engine of the D-13 required larger support arms that necessitated bulges in the frontal fuselage as well as a larger supercharger intake.

 

The D-13 utilized wide paddle-shaped propeller blades (VS9) and a MG 151/20mm cannon firing through the spinner.  You can see a bit of the inconsistent molding quality in the Grey Matter spinner.

 

The single engine-mounted gun used one central chute for expended ammo casings and the resin kit provides the necessary modification.

 

The fuselage parts are not perfectly square with one another and there is some warpage but with a few adjustments, I could probably get them to fit.

 

All of the D-13 modifications occur forward of the cockpit.  The major mod being the addition of a subtle longitudinal bulge on either side, above the exhausts and below the hinge line, designed to clear the larger engine support arms.

 

Comparing the kit fuselage on the left with the resin fuselage on the right, you can see that the thickness of the resin is comparable to the kit plastic.  You can also see some of the inconsistencies of the resin mold... the plug for the exhaust stubs will not be able to seat properly without some major cleanup.

 

A general observation of the molding quality of the resin kit... the components that are unaltered from the Hasegawa kit are clean and molded about as finely as you would find on the kit part.  The areas of modification, however, varies in refinement as evidenced by this circular fuel port, which is mounted slightly higher on the D-13 than the D-9.  And I thought I was bad at centering concentric circles!

[Hartmann52]

[Thunnus]

Here is a comparison of the Grey Matter components compared to the same Hasegawa parts.  The resin fuselage features the same internals as the kit plastic, down to the sidewall details, tabs and locating pins, which make fitting the pieces a little easier.  But even so, it takes a bit of effort to tape the resin halves together due to the warping.

I'm guessing that the masters for the resin mold were the Hasegawa fuselage parts with the D-13 modifications grafted onto them.  The Hasegawa-derived details seem to be molded much more uniformly than the added details.  There are some exceptions to this including some messiness around the exhaust openings and notably the bottom engine cowling seam.

Here is an example of resin warping at the tail joint.

Looking at the interior side of the cowling parts, you can see the filler used to beef up the part prior to sculpting of the Hasegawa part.

If I have a choice, I'll usually pick working with styrene plastic over resin.  Based on my overall discomfort with resin and adding the warping issues, the messy resin areas, and the lack of any added detail to the resin over the kit plastic, I am planning on avoiding use of the resin parts as much as possible.  I'm planning on following in the steps of the resin maker and make my own modifications to the kit parts, using this set and other references as a guide.  This is not to say that the Grey Matters resin is not good or is not usable.  This is just a personal preference and there are some great examples of this conversion set being used very successfully.  If you need proof, take a look at Big Timm's D-13!

The port side bulge seems to be fairly simple to sculpt as it is pretty uniform and there is nothing in the way.  The starboard side is a different matter.  I'd have to contend with the base of the supercharger intake, which is larger than found on the D-9.  To get a different perspective on the proposed changes, I can place the kit cowling onto the resin fuselage to see the contours and approximately thickness of the material I'll need to add.

[Thunnus]

As an additional resource, I went ahead and purchased the Real Model D-13 conversion. In terms of components, it is similar to the GM conversion minus the fuselage.

 

Resin casting is very nice and clean.  The top cowling seem to be very similar to the GM version.  So it looks like I have at least two choices when it comes to this area.  I could even attempt to sculpt my own!

 

The Real Model D-13 conversion set comes with a set of instructions that illustrate the type of corrections that I planning.  The only difficulty I see is that removal of the existing supercharger intake base  on the starboard side and re-implementation of a larger base for the new supercharger.  A few steps more complicated than the port side but I'm hoping I can handle it.

 

Comparatively, the Grey Matter D-13 conversion comes with no instructions but just an informational sheet, which claims "no cutting is required".  Obviously aimed at the more experienced modeler.

 

I sawed off the RM cowling from its casting block, cleaned it up and mounted it on the Hasegawa D-9 fuselage.  It took some extra trimming on the cowling ends to get it to fit, length-wise.  It appears that the bottom rear edge of the cowling is narrower than the fuselage, resulting in a slight step that would need to be corrected.

 

The GM cowling, although not perfect, fits better than the RM cowling.  Dimensions seem to correspond more accurately to the Hasegawa fuselage and will require less remedial work.

 

The two D-13 supercharger intakes are slightly different in shape.  The RM intake has a leaner look with a thinner lip around the intake opening.  It also has some recessed panel line details missing from the GM intake and, maybe significantly, it includes more of the flare at the base.  I am leaning on utilizing the RM intake as it would take less work to mount.

[Troy Molitor]

Looking forward to this one John.  We’re getting spoiled again.  The bass and tuna can simply wait!   

[VintageEagle]

Great subject! I’ve seen the original last fall. There are three D-13 documented by photos, not just two. I published a photo of a wreck at Gardelegen in my book. Later another photo appeared, which I have published here:

 

https://vintageeagle.com/2017/12/11/addendum-ce-vol-i-photo-46-fw-190-d-13/

 

However, as most if the fuselage was burnt out, no details of its markings are known. There was a AB canister attached, so I assume it was already assigned to an operational unit.

 

Just as a side info. Looking forward to your build!

 

Cheers,

Roger

[Thunnus]

2 hours ago, Troy Molitor said:

Looking forward to this one John.  We’re getting spoiled again.  The bass and tuna can simply wait!   

Fishing opportunities will always be given a certain priority!   Finally broke quarantine and found a private pond to fish a couple of days ago...

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, VintageEagle said:

Great subject! I’ve seen the original last fall. There are three D-13 documented by photos, not just two. I published a photo of a wreck at Gardelegen in my book. Later another photo appeared, which I have published here:

 

https://vintageeagle.com/2017/12/11/addendum-ce-vol-i-photo-46-fw-190-d-13/

 

However, as most if the fuselage was burnt out, no details of its markings are known. There was a AB canister attached, so I assume it was already assigned to an operational unit.

 

Just as a side info. Looking forward to your build!

 

Cheers,

Roger

 

Thanks Roger!  I was not aware of this D-13 so this is new information for me.  Do you know if there are available photos of D-9 W. Nr. 401381?  I have both the JaPo and Crandall Dora references.

[Kais]

John,
Nice start.
With reference to the supercharger intake, how close in size, shape is it to the ZM Ta152 H intake?

Edited May 21, 2020 by Kais
Fat fingers

[Thunnus]

1 hour ago, Kais said:

John,
Nice start.
With reference to the supercharger intake, how close in size, shape is it to the ZM Ta152 H intake?

 

Thank you!  Based on a visual comparison, I would say that the Real Model supercharger intake was based directly from the Z-M Ta152H kit.  The Grey Matter intake is different and I'm not sure from where it was derived.

 

[Thunnus]

Another view of the radiator cowling to try and show the re-shaping effort.  Doesn't the kit part on the right look boxier?  

 

The supercharger base has been eradicated.

 

I don't know why I'm filling in the surface pits since they will most likely be covered by the supercharger.  That fuel fill port will be filled in and slightly lowered per my references.

 

Almost ready to start mapping out the "bulge".

[Kais]

John,
did I miss the Tank getting over the finish line?

 

[Martinnfb]

Yrs and yes and one again YES !!! 

[Troy Molitor]

Epic build going on here John.   You know I love all these updates.  Seriously.   

 

Just to mention.  The bass you proudly show us is considered a minnows in Wisconsin.  The Lake of the woods in Canada ( epic place) where my 83 year old dad drags me up to every other year is a fishing spot of epic proportions.  You need to try Walleye fishing.  A fish of fantastic taste.  Walleye is a fish of incredible taste. unbelievable taste brother.  .    

 

Dora 13!,,,,,,

[Miloslav1956]

I made the RM set. It was created only because I found out that the Rutman set is not completely correct.
I used all the photos from the restoration of the yellow 10.
Therefore, the scoop has a different shape, which was the same as the Ta 152H. Also the top cover has the wrong shape, It gave a lot of work to achieve the right look according to the photos. It is necessary, according to the cover, to finish the bulge on the fuselage. The D-13 had a stronger and larger engine frame.