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Everything posted by VintageEagle

  1. Hi John, I have continued to work on Vol 2 and have just finished another article. I think I have completed all longer articles that required considerable amount of research and will just have shorter descriptions for the remaining photos. There is still a lot of work with layout etc., but the closer it gets the more motivated I get to finish it. I sometimes think it would have been much easier and faster to publish it without text and that most people are mainly interested in the photos anyways, but it's also a personal interest to find out as much as I can about a particular aircraft. Knowin
  2. That's a great photo too. Which wreck is this? That looks as if all internal surfaces were painted RLM 02, which I am not sure they would have done. Possibly it is just aging?
  3. Thank you Antonio! Great photos. I believe that the landing flap interior was actually bare aluminum. It is just oxydized so that it looks grey. The gear bay covers indeed look to be painted RLM 02. In color footage of the Fw 190s at Ansbach just after the war it looks as if the rear wall of the landing gear bay was left bare metal. I am considering a combination of covers in RLM 02 and back wall in bare metal. If only there was still an unrestored Fw 190 around. I have been trying to find color photos of the unrestored NASM Fw 190, but couldn't find any. Cheers, Roger
  4. I have been working on the ailerons and have applied a primer coat to the elevators and rudder. I am happy with the effect. It looks much better than the Revell raised details. I'll post photos soon. Next will be the installation of the wheel bay and work on the Eduard landing flap. However, I am not sure about the colors. I have seen a few wartime color shots that suggest that at least some aircraft did not have the wheel bay and interior of the landing flaps painted in RLM 02. For the landing gear wheel bay it may well be that there was a mix of painted parts and unpainted parts.
  5. Outstanding work! Looks fabulous. I wish my 190A will look only half as good when finished.
  6. Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet. I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. First a look at the original: Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller: (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied: (2) Ma
  7. Looks great! Only one thing I noticed is that the control stick is installed pointing backwards. It should be turned by 180 deg around the vertical axis to point forward.
  8. Hi Peter, That looks fantastic. I have this kit waiting to be built and will closely follow your WIP. How did you apply the oil streaks and spots on the wheelbay parts? That looks very realistic! Cheers, Roger
  9. Hi everyone, I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and r
  10. I’ll check if I can find photos of the parts. Good to know that there is another option for the ip and seat!
  11. Thanks John. I now remember this set from years ago when I started the Trumpeter Me 262 (never finished it). At least some parts of it could be used for upgrading the Revell kit. Will check if it is still available. That looks not bad. Have not yet seen any photos of the actual parts. I would probably repaint them to ensure the same grey on all cockpit parts. The cabin pressure gauge was never installed (except prototypes) and the engine instrument layout are for an early production Me 262. After simplification efforts at the end of 1944 the difference pressure gauges and oil pr
  12. I am asking about the new tool kit. It is not a re-box of the Hasegawa one, but a completely new one. The first one was the nightfighter (B), last year the fighter/fighter-bomber versions were added. The Eduard instrument panel is too flat (as it is a PE panel) and the instrument configuration is incorrect (both A and B versions). It seems the best way is to build the panel from scratch or improving the kit panel / cockpit. I wonder why companies like Aires (do they still exist?) or also Eduard did not produce a resin detail set. Maybe the margin for those are smaller than for PE
  13. Hello, My next project will be a Revell 1/32 Me 262 A. I have tried to find a decent resin detail set for the cockpit, but couldn't. Only Eduard's PE detail sets. For the instrument panel, seat, etc. I prefer resin. The Me 262 is quite a popular aircraft. Why has no after-market brand produced a decent detail set (yet)? Or does anybody know of one that is available or will hit the market soon? Thanks, Roger
  14. It looks so easy when you do your magic, but I know it is not. Excellent and clean work.
  15. Hello all, thanks a lot for your help and Tolga for his e-mail address! Much appreciated. I’ll try to contact him. Cheers, Roger
  16. Hello, I have been trying to find a Fw 190 A/F propeller from Henri Daehne. Does anybody know how and where to order one? Thanks, Roger
  17. John, yes, here is a photo of this plane (I believe that I even bought the original at eBay, but would have to check my collection first to be sure):
  18. Great subject! I’ve seen the original last fall. There are three D-13 documented by photos, not just two. I published a photo of a wreck at Gardelegen in my book. Later another photo appeared, which I have published here: https://vintageeagle.com/2017/12/11/addendum-ce-vol-i-photo-46-fw-190-d-13/ However, as most if the fuselage was burnt out, no details of its markings are known. There was a AB canister attached, so I assume it was already assigned to an operational unit. Just as a side info. Looking forward to your build! Cheers, Roger
  19. PS: Found this one from a French supplier and ordered it: https://www.decals-virages.com/en/decalcomanie/139-virgin.html?search_query=bmw&results=1 Thanks for the advice Mark. I am sure it will look great. Cheers, Roger
  20. Mark, thank you. Can you tell me what sheet the second one is that you showed? Is it available separately? Cheers, Roger
  21. Here is one with the correct emblem. I wonder where he got it from.
  22. Hi Mark, It was slightly different and had a gold circle and text. Please have a look at the BMW page: https://www.bmw.com/de/automotive-life/bmw-logo-bedeutung-geschichte1.html OK, maybe I find one on a vintage car decal sheet, but I would then have to buy the whole kit for just the tiny decal. I'll probably just try to spray the white / blue parts and leave the BMW letters as they would be so tiny anyways and less visible compared to the white / blue portions. Cheers, Roger
  23. I am waiting for some copper wires to arrive to finish the wheel well. Meanwhile, I started to work on the BMW 801. Most will be hidden, so no detailing and not even removing all seam lines except for on the front. What will be visible is the BMW logothat can be seen in e.g. the photos below (the second is a modern BMW emblem and is not the original one that was attached). Unfortunately, I don't have such a decal. Hence my questions: 1) Does anybody have a close-up of the BMW emblem on a BMW 801 (ideally even a wartime photo)? I am not 100% sure if these emblems were always attache
  24. That’s the best looking Me 262 nightfighter I have seen so far. Outstanding paint work. How did you do the scratches and the different shades of green on the upper wings? They look very realistic.
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