Starfighter Jock

I had been under the lost of mojo thing myself, so here is what I did. Made a list of the model projects I really want to do and working on selling off everything else. I don't care how many weeks or months go by, I am in no hurry to finish a project. I take breaks of a few weeks and do not work on any model projects. On larger modelling projects I break it down into sub-assembles and treat each completed assembly as a model in it's own The hobby is for enjoyment, if it's no longer enjoyable. stop doing it. Lastly, I got rid of the shelf queen projects sitting in my workshop taking up space, I will never be working on them again so out they go. Kirk

Looks fantastic Marcel!! Kirk

Chapter 1 – Continued. The Block Box cockpit is now painted and permanently installed into the fuselage. Overall fit was good and because of the time I invested into repeated dry-fits of the tub to the kit fuselage, the final seams that needed to be filled and blended was really on the minimum side. With the cockpit now in and about 95% of the cockpit/sill painting complete, I pulled out the tinted canopy parts as supplied in the kit, sanded back and polished out the seam running down the middle and added the missing grab handles that Tamiya did not include to the inside of the canopy framing. Tamiya has really done a great job in suppling and rendering the inner framing, but some extra detailing would really make it stand out. I am now thinking I should have invested a bit more time into it and added the interior riveting, etc., but decided the grab handles would do and moved on to masking and painting it up, along with applying the decals from the Two Bobs sheet. My decaling becomes somewhat of a long process as after applying two coats of Gunze Mr. Super clear over the paintwork, I apply the decals utilizing the Gunze Mr. Mark Setter and Softener products. Once completely dry, I apply another coat of Mr. Super Clear, and once dry I sand it back with some 8000-polishing cloth, then once again apply a final wet coat of Mr. Super Clear. I find using this method makes the decal carrier film about 98% invisible to the eye. Once satisfied with the result I knocked the high gloss back using a couple of coats of Alclad II Klear Kote Light Sheen that hopefully will provide just the right amount of sheen to the completed model. The rear section of the fixed canopy over the rear deck will get finished with the overall paint work once I get that far. Moving forward I will get the ejection seat finished up and painted, then start on figuring out how to fit the Aires wheel wells into the kit along with building up and painting the intake trunks, wheel wells and landing gear. Apology for the poor quality photos this time around, I am still in the process of learning my camera and obviously I had some sort of lighting/exposure issue going on with these photos, hope the next round will be better but bear with me, still learning how to do decent still photos. Kirk

Looking great Marcel and I know what you mean about being loyal to paint that works for you. I have been a loyal Tamiya and Gunze paint user for quite sometime, but after trying out the Mr. Paint products I have become converted, I love this paint. Flows through all my airbrushes including my Iwata custom micron like a dream. Using it for the "Blizzard" camo on my F-16 project so hopefully will have some photos of it up on the WIP soon. Kirk

Awesome build!!!! You are so inspiring me to get back to work on my F-16. Kirk

Placed my pre-order this morning! ........ so is the 1/32 A-10C correction set up next? KJ

Amazing Titanium finish Chuck, I would have never of thought or even dared to use polishing compound on Alclad paints. You have demonstrated that it is not only possible, but it takes the final finish to a even higher level. Well done! Kirk

Received a email from Dave this morning that the "Hornets Swarm" F/A-18A/C in combat sheet has been shipped out! Looking forward to it. KJ

Nice! Looking forward to the build. Kirk

Marcel, I have seen the Academy "No Push" decals used on the tail feathers before, if you trim off excess clear portions you can lay them right down over the Alclad finish without using any sealers. But if you want to weather them down some, then try over coating the exhaust with Alclad Aqua-Clear. Typically does not alter the finish once dry but I do recommend doing some tests with it beforehand as it can be a bit tricky to apply and have it dry crystal clear. Ok to weather over the top of it with oils, enamels, etc., stuff is tough as a rock when dry. Cheers Kirk

Marcel, Fantastic work on the exhaust cans, some of the best I have seen. I agree with you on the KASL P&W exhaust, it is a gorgeous rendering. Cheers KJ

What I get to see routinely, Michigan ANG A-10C's working the training ranges at Camp Grayling located in northern Michigan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAHGtfT-Pcc

It's stunning!! KJ

Awesome work and fantastic idea on dicing up the resin set to fit the kit's cockpit. Fit looks excellent and I really like how the IP hood fits, way much better fit than the Avionix hood. Kirk

I struggled with the same about cutting into the rear deck, but decided to go ahead with it. It is not difficult, just takes time, patience and dry-fit, dry-fit and dry-fit some more as you go along. Recommend rough cutting the area out, then using files and sanding sticks, slowly continue to open the area up while continually dry-fitting the cockpit into place. Once it fits good and can be slightly moved around to adjust the fit from front to rear, STOP, you are done, it now fits. KJ