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Nice work.  I like your problem-solving.

 

'little circular discs to the rack mounting posts.'

They are rubber bushings.  Much like what you can find on a shock absorber of your car.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Edited by dodgem37

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Thanks for checking in guys!  I appreciate the input!

The joint between the forward and rear fuselage parts has been cleaned up on both halves.  I've re-scribed the panel line too.  I'm going to leave it there for now until I resolve the canopy situation.
IMG-5535.jpg
IMG-5537.jpg

 

Here's the canopy frame folded but not yet glued. It's reasonably close but I don't think this is going to cut it.
IMG-5540.jpg

 

Gluing down the top of the canopy to the side frames improves things but it's just not square enough to sit flush.  And being a delicate metal frame, it's hard to make adjustments without throwing other areas off.  I think this is beyond my pay grade.
IMG-5542.jpg

 

Here is the kit canopy as a comparison.  I'm thinking that I can round off the top corners of the rear canopy and the fuselage from the canopy to about one panel line back.  And then polish up the canopy afterwards.
IMG-5545.jpg

 

For back-up, I have a copy of the Revell G-10 canopy that I might be able to use.  It is narrower at the base but I think I can use some hot water and coax it a little wider just in case something goes wrong with the Hasegawa canopy.  I'll set aside the metal canopy frame for now.
IMG-5546.jpg

 

I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.

IMG-5538.jpg

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When I designed the PE canopy, it was made to fit the Hasegawa G-6 or G-14 kits. For some reason Hasegawa decided to make the whole cockpit area of the K-4 kit different. The outer edges of the cockpit sill are wider apart on the K-4 kit and the top of the spine is "squarer". So, the PE canopy won't fit in the closed position, but you may get away with it in the open position.

One other thing to keep in mind is that, according to the manual, the access door behind the headrest should be just a 4-corner trapeze, instead of the 6-corner "trapese with cut top corners" provided in the kit.

HTH

Radu

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Nicely done.

 

'I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.'

You'll need to cut a rectangular hole thru the bottom panel behind of the rear screen to accommodate the actuator.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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7 hours ago, Radub said:

When I designed the PE canopy, it was made to fit the Hasegawa G-6 or G-14 kits. For some reason Hasegawa decided to make the whole cockpit area of the K-4 kit different. The outer edges of the cockpit sill are wider apart on the K-4 kit and the top of the spine is "squarer". So, the PE canopy won't fit in the closed position, but you may get away with it in the open position.

One other thing to keep in mind is that, according to the manual, the access door behind the headrest should be just a 4-corner trapeze, instead of the 6-corner "trapese with cut top corners" provided in the kit.

HTH

Radu

 

Thank you for that explanation, Radu.  I don't feel so bad now that I couldn't get it to fit.  It's a nifty little piece of work but I'm not very good at imparting curvature onto PE parts and there are some subtle curvatures along that rear edge of the canopy frame that I just couldn't get right.

 

And thank you about that note about the access door.  I'm aware of that difference as noted in some earlier posts.  I've already cut out a preliminary access door from brass sheet.

 

 

7 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

Nicely done.

 

'I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.'

You'll need to cut a rectangular hole thru the bottom panel behind of the rear screen to accommodate the actuator.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

  Thank you, Mark... I got lucky and the actuator ends before it touches the roof.  So I don't have to cut a hole to accommodate it.

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5 hours ago, Thunnus said:

 

And thank you about that note about the access door.  I'm aware of that difference as noted in some earlier posts.  I've already cut out a preliminary access door from brass sheet.

 

Sorry, I was going somewhere with that observation about the door, but got diverted. :-) I think that the "squareish" shape of the door might have caused Hasegawa to think that spine/canopy should also have a "squareish" shape (even though they still used the early door). In any case, that whole area is a terrible mess.

Radu

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1 hour ago, Fencer-1 said:

The 109G/K oil cooler flap actuator located actually not at the center of flap. It is moved to about 1/3rd right side. The only Erla G-10 model had it in the center.

32934563547_4eeb63729a_o.jpg

 

Wow... great shot!  Thanks for that info, Alexey!  I'll take that into consideration and modify accordingly!  So much expertise here at LSP!

 

Using the template that RB Productions provided in the photoetch canopy set, I set about to correct the overly square fuselage spine.
IMG-5577.jpg
IMG-5578.jpg

 

The error is very slight in my view and looks to be easily correctable.  A few swipes with the sanding stick gets me close to the desired shape.
IMG-5579.jpg

 

I want to do the same with the canopy but I noticed that there is a flange on the starboard edge of the canopy that is meant to be a gluing surface for mounting the canopy in the open position.  I can properly position the canopy in the closed position for the correction so off it comes via razor saw.
IMG-5580.jpg

 

After preliminary shaping, I place the uncorrected canopy on the fuselage.  The difference is VERY slight and hardly noticeable although it will be more so with the canopy painted.
IMG-5582.jpg
IMG-5583.jpg
IMG-5584.jpg

 

I'm pretty close to being done with the re-shaping of the fuselage.
IMG-5586.jpg

 

I haven't put the sanding stick on the canopy yet but the work should be pretty minor.  Waiting to get a Novus plastic polish set delivered.
IMG-5581.jpg

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