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F-117A • Nighthawk


F`s are my favs

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Small up - the oil canning is done on the bottom side, I like it quite a lot:

 

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And I finally went on a decalling adventure of the launch rails... they are ready. :) It all started like this:

 

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Of course on the zoomed photos they don't look as good as in person, but I like them anyway. This is one of those Number 1 reasons why you should keep leftover decal sheets in storage. ;)

 

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Note how they don't look equally weathered with the rest of the white surfaces... I'm still debating should I weather them or not... 

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Milan, I don't know if you've closed up the FLIR/DLIR completely just yet, but I did find a very good source for scale mesh for those openings.  They also offer small sample sizes for just a few dollars.  I believe this was the scale I opted for.  I haven't gotten anything installed just yet, but thought I'd pass along the info in case it was helpful.  The sample sizes they offer are just the thing!

 

https://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/stainless-steel/50-mesh-t316-stainless-high-transparency-0012-wire-dia

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Yep, Brian, thx much. :) I'm following the ''recent'' F-117 topic over the BM forums and noticed you mentioned that company as a source for the mesh... it was quite some time ago, a year or so... It is indeed ''The Thing'', but I closed both IR provisions already. And what also made me choose my ''improvizations'' over the perfect mesh is the fragility - it is such a fine mesh that I need to be 101%+ carefull while handling the model. It just looks too dangerous to me, and I'm afraid that just a subtle touch and it would leave some kind of indentation, stretch it unevenly, etc. and then it would be quite difficult to replace the mesh once the model is painted/finished. Not to mention all the touching and the moving of the model throughout this oil canning effect, then the priming/painting/weathering... Yet, I was thinking once upon a time really serious to ask you about that mesh (I remember I couldn't find the exact size/pattern), but I just prefer to have a proper ''cover'' in those areas, especially the FLIR which... I suppose, it would collect dust and fine particles easier than the DLIR, even if stored properly - and, how to clean it... what if the dust particles enter through the mesh (although it looks impossible)... It's just about the same for the air intakes - there is no way to leave the PE mesh just glued along the edges of the ''openings'' - that's why I added some strong backings made out of acryllic, and then the PE mesh will go over them. Anyway, thanks a lot for the link again. :bow:;)

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  • 2 months later...

And... here is the prep of the top of the fuselage - first drawing the main pattern with a pencil: 

 

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then, after some decent scraping and sanding operations:

 

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Then the new adventure started, at least to me. :) I decided to use metal stripes (the aluminum ones, with the self-adhesive layer underneath) to imitate the overlapping of the RAM coatings... I did some initial imitaiton during the oil canning effect, via scraping and scrathing in straight (slightly deeper) lines, but I thought it would be much much better to add the metal stripes over it. It was my first time using this kind of metal ''sheets'' (and as training for the Starfighter :) )... So I did the trials with the ruddervators only...

 

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I primed them with Surfacer, then some fine sanding...and... nope. :) It's way way out of scale. :) I couldn't left them like that, not to mention all over the plane if I had to continue. So I peeled the metal stripes off, and... I secretly hoped the thickness of the primer would be just enough. And it was. So instead of adding metal stripes - the method will be just masking (with normal masking tape), then priming, a second thicker coat, then removing the stripes, fine sanding, and then continue with the painting stage.

 

Here are some pics - the masks/stripes are on:

 

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And after the first coat of primer:

 

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(note how those stripes with the masking tape look like, with low-angle light... they would have looked the same if they were aluminum stripes staying permanently)

 

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I plan to continue with partial removal of the stripes (will leave bare plastic), then gun metal metalizer all over, then full removal of the stripes, then very subtle polishing, and then the painting... wish me luck. :) 

Mery Xmass y'all, and cheers!

Edited by F`s are my favs
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It didn't go without a hitch, but kinda worked very well at the end (still plenty of things to do). So, the plan was, after removing the masking stripes:

 

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, to use these highlighted edges (or rims) afterwards. They are ever so slightly higher than the rest of the surfaces, that after sanding them ever so slightly, they must leave ''white'' demarcation lines over the ''black'' paint. Of course, they are so so thin, than it wouldn't be possible to do them with just the usual masking and painting technique. So, basically I'm using the thickness of a couple of layers of Surfacer primer to make these ''lines''. Here is how it looks overall: (PS: some pics are at night with white flashlight, others are in the morning)

 

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Then, it was a bummer that I couldn't nail the right ''black'' color from the first time. :) There are two invisible layers underneath (one quite reddish, one quite bluish), but I'm happy with this ''black'' at the end:

 

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I know it changes hues and shine at every angle, and the phone changes settings every time, hopefully several pics will make it easier to determine. Going ahead...

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Here it is after the subtle sanding - the ''white'' edges from the Surfacer really appeared very very nicely. I left them only on certain key areas, according to the reference images. It is ready for further discoloration of some areas, and decals. From now on - there will be only transparent coats of black/bluish flters...

 

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Edited by F`s are my favs
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I actually ended up using bare metal foil in the model :) - for the inner/larger side of the exhaust plates... As they move up and down to regulate the boundary cooling air in the real plane, they have a very distinctive edge and a different color (than the outermost trailing edges). It would have been possible to do it with just painting, but I prefer that unique metal shine at a certan angle (due to the very thin transparent coat of paint over it). Here it is just glued:

 

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And ready. It changes color and reflection at every angle, has a very nice thin trailing edge that now looks like a plate on the top of another plate, and it was very easy to do the 4-rivet indentations for perhaps the actuators underneath (I'm not sure what their purpose is, but they are clearly visible in almost every pic of the real plane). There are also some very thin (9 or 10) lines at that outermost plate, penperndicular to the trailing edge, which were originally in the OOB parts, but I deleted them as they were way way out of scale. I found them visible in only a few of the real plane pics, so I prefer not to add them. The weathering will be more than enough and will do it justice.

 

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Then, the decals and the discoloration of certain panels/parts are ready. Pick a side... :wub: both are tremendous. Some legit Lightning II vibes underneath:

 

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And the top. Btw I found out some discrepancies concerning the decals (lack of decals, a few are out of scale), but I did some modifications. Here it is: 

 

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Now I need some time to enjoy it as it is in its ''shiny'' shape, and will proceed with the (very subtle) weathering and the final matt coat, which should change its look completely. Cheers & happy NYE holidays!

Edited by F`s are my favs
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Posted (edited)

Weathering adventures: very very subtle initial highlighting of some areas with oil paints - this is the bottom fuselage ready, and the mixture I used:

 

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The top fuselage is ready as well:

 

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It needs a few weeks to dry properly, then I plan to seal everything with a final matt coat, and do the heavy black streaks on the bottom fuselage and on the exhaust plates also with oil paints. Meanwhile :), I'm starting my third large scale plane - the Starfighter.

Edited by F`s are my favs
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