patricksparks Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Thanks Martin! I sure didn't have my thinking cap on when I made that comment! Just an FYI, the Me 109s, 110 and 262 were really interesting in their fuselage construction was that the fuselage internal formers are not individual parts, they were actually formed into the edge of each fuselage skin section as one piece, this is why they riveted only on one side of the joints. When you look at these photos of the inside of the fuselage the stringers/longerons are individual and were slid through punched out holes in the individual fuselage sections and then riveted in place while the outer skin(dounuts) sections were stacked end to end . Paul in Napier, Thunnus, LSP_Paul and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel460 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Great work on the riveting, please don't think I was saying that your riveting was off. My brain was not thinking of the overlapped skin on the Fuse. Dan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel460 Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Just an FYI, the Me 109s, 110 and 262 were really interesting in their fuselage construction was that the fuselage internal formers are not individual parts, they were actually formed into the edge of each fuselage skin section as one piece, this is why they riveted only on one side of the joints. When you look at these photos of the inside of the fuselage the stringers/longerons are individual and were slid through punched out holes in the individual fuselage sections and then riveted in place while the outer skin(dounuts) sections were stacked end to end . Hey Patrick, Aren't the fuselage split? Right and left side, that's what I understand and that's the way they show it in the Vasco/Estanislau 110 book. I don't think they are donuts. If you enlarge Martens picture above you can see that at least one of the former's is an individual piece and the braces riveted on top and bottom of each one. I may be wrong...... Sorry to hijack your thread a bit John..... Dan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 yup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) In Martin's left photo, you can see a double row of rivets at the top and bottom of the fuselage. These trimwheels sorta look like wood ??? HTH Edited November 26, 2017 by mmaben sandokan, tucohoward, Daniel460 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) Very good information for anyone interested in the Bf109 so it's very welcome! Meanwhile, my G-10 Erla build continues. The seam on the upper wings is on-going. Another advantage of putting the upper wings together now is that you can ensure that the joint butts up evenly with no step, which might be difficult to do otherwise. The fuselage halves are ready to be put together. But instead of trying to trap the cockpit tub in place WHILE gluing the fuselage halves together, I thought it would be better to FIRST secure the cockpit tub to the fuselage sides using epoxy glue and clamping the fuselage halves together with tape. That way, I can make final adjustments to the fit of the cockpit within the fuselage. Once the cockpit is fused into place, I can easily weld the fuselage seams together with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. While the epoxy glue is drying, I do other detail work. The clear port for the wing antenna is glued into place. Having finished riveting all of the exterior surfaces, I noticed that the canopy frames also have rivets. I was hesitant to do this at first because clear plastic is more brittle than colored styrene. But I have a few extra canopy parts so I thought, why not? I used the leftover canopy from my previous G-10 build as a guinea pig. After success on the spare canopy, I started riveting canopy part #59, which has the curved junction between the bottom and rear canopy frames. I put a crack in it on the first rivet run! That one goes in the trash. I now have two canopies left. Both with the straight junction but I figure I can simply use a curved mask to correct either canopy pretty easily. I already put rivets on the canopy without the notch fix so weighing the two options, I figured it was easier to rivet than to fill the notch. Whew... finished without mishap. Time to mask the clear parts. I don't particularly like Montex canopy masks. I've found that the adhesive has a hard time holding on to curved surfaces. I was planning to use the Montex masks on the flat glass sections but to cut my own masks for any masks on curved surfaces. While I was positioning one of the masks on the windscreen, I noticed that it left a smear of adhesive on the plastic which was very difficult to remove. Strange.. I've never experienced this before with Montex masks. I didn't relish the prospect of trying to scrub my clear parts while attached to the model so I elected to cut all of the masks from yellow kabuki tape. I used the Montex masks as templates. I had a hard time cutting the little corner curves of the smaller masks so I had to do some touch-up masking. The Eduard metal legs have been primed with Mr Surfacer 1000, given a base coat of gloss black and then sprayed Alclad Chrome for the shiny metal bits. I'l let that dry overnight and then mask the chrome parts before giving the legs a final coat of RLM 02. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus sandokan, XOPCT, Greg W and 9 others 11 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Good show. Sincerely, Mark Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucohoward Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Great work, John! I assume you are not masking the inside of the canopy because you are going with a closed canopy? That's the nice thing about Montex that they give you the inside as well. Adds a lot in our scale. Jay Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 Great work, John! I assume you are not masking the inside of the canopy because you are going with a closed canopy? That's the nice thing about Montex that they give you the inside as well. Adds a lot in our scale. Jay Thanks Jay! That is correct. I am going with a closed canopy on this one so I will not go through the trouble of masking the interior canopy frames. Going with the closed canopy also simplifies some other aspects of the build including not having to deal with the step on the rear cockpit bulkhead that Revell has engineered into the kit... another point that Airfixer made that took me a few days to digest. tucohoward 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) I have read a report where the RAF found flaps´control wheels made of plywood in a G-14 iirc. Can't locate the document :/ Edited November 27, 2017 by Hardcore Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Looking really nice John. Cheers Bevan Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Hey Patrick, Aren't the fuselage split? Right and left side, that's what I understand and that's the way they show it in the Vasco/Estanislau 110 book. I don't think they are donuts. If you enlarge Martens picture above you can see that at least one of the former's is an individual piece and the braces riveted on top and bottom of each one. I may be wrong...... Sorry to hijack your thread a bit John..... Dan I refer to them as "dounuts" for lack of a better description !!! yup, I've seen this photo of the assembly !!! good stuff !!! Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the comments guys! The Erla build goes on. The Reaver spinner would have you trap the kit prop shaft between the fuselage halves. The fit was not positive at all and I need to have the spinner separate when I deal with the spiral. So instead, I glued a piece of 5/16" round rod into the prop spinner. Now the prop is a tight friction fit that I can attach/detach at will. The fuselage halves have been glued together and the cockpit is secured into place. I am leary about committing glue to the AMUR Reaver cowling pieces just yet so I am still dry-fitting the components and also working on other stuff while I work up the courage. I want to hollow out the ammo ejection chutes on the underside of the fuselage. I am a squared section of plastic sheet to serve as a form for the new chutes. The chutes are made of brass sheet. The wing bottom parts that block off the ejector chutes have been marked. Since this area of the wing houses the landing gear mounts, I have to be careful about removing too much plastic. I used a drill to make a hole and then roughly squared it out to let the ejector chutes pass through. The top wing joint has been finished on both wings. It took a couple of passes with different fillers and a scriber. After painting the metal landing gear legs, I got the bright idea of gluing a piece of lead wire over the molded brake line to help make it stand out more. I scraped off the metal brake line as much as I could and then superglued an appropriately lengthed lead wire. I used the same idea for the brake line on the gear cover. A couple of straps made from Tamiya tape were put over the new brake line. Here is a picture of the finished gear legs. Of course, the new brake lines are hidden from view. I'm not sure I'm happy with this... I'll take a look at it again. Edited April 17, 2018 by Thunnus Paul in Napier, Gazzas, MikeMaben and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Wonderful work John. I like the paint effect very much. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I am SOOO stealing that ejector chutes trick! Well done John. Regards, Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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