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Everything posted by patricksparks

  1. Thank you Peter, I've done some backing up here and there... I should have followed your lead on the construction of the cockpit on your "C" model and made the interior out of the model and then intall it,with aluminum inner walls on it, the 21st Century model has some shape quirks that hinder things a bit and the outer wall thickness, though not terribly thick did cause some issues trying to cram alot of stuff into the office.... The P-40 is looking great!!! looking forward to your progress!!! Thanks again, Pat
  2. I have been using a quick coat of Tamiya clear lacquer-spray can, I usually use the semi-gloss so it does'nt take too long to dry(ink-run), but I have used gloss to. like I said a "quick coat" not too much, just enough not to be dry-sprayed. Pat
  3. Aerorelix Stencil is the font I used, I found it on-line, it's free download. The only thing I set on my printer was the type of paper(other glossy photo paper) and "Best Print Quality", I also cut my decal film into 7"x5" pieces and loaded it in the photo printing drawer so as not to use a full sheet of film and printed a few other things that I could think of at the time to make use of some of the extra film on the same sheet.. The decal film is "Experts Choice" /"Bare Metal Foil" as this is the thinnest print on decal film that I have found, I whish there was something a little thinner, but it works good... Hope this helps, the Corsair is looking Great !!! Pat
  4. A little bit of progress, I was in the Caribbean for a week for R&R, came back to eye doctor appointment, doctor appointment and dentist appointment..... Pretty cool at the dentist though, before I left for vacation the dentist needed to make a new onlay for one of my teeth that had fallen off, for the first time since I've been going to my dentist he did a 3D scan of my teeth to make the new onlay, when I got back there they showed me the 3D model of my teeth, awesome !!! they said I could keep it if I wanted, of course I said yes!!! they thought I was crazy, I told them it was like getting the toy from the "Happy Meal" at McDonalds !!! too cool !!! Anyway I have been working on the cockpit seat armor, I installed it and the realized that I hadn't installed the cockpit heater ducts that are on both sides of the armor, so out came the armor and the ducts were installed... I purchased a 1:18 scale 3D printed seat from "Model Monkey" really nice part, I had to modify it as the B/C model Mustangs have longer vertical seat rails on them than the "D" model, so I carefully cut off the rails and springs that are printed on the seat and replaced them with rod and home made spring details, I added seat adjustment levers as well. I made the seat cushion from sculpy and made the decals on my inkjet printer ... Pat
  5. Aurora models made a Fokker DVII and an SE 5 in a large scale that was originally for U-control flying then sold them as static model kits. Pat
  6. Thank you Jay !!! I too am always wearing the 2.5 "cheaters" along with the "Optiviser" head set along with as all the lights on....Your work is truly great looking !!! The springs I made, they are soft electrical wire, the way I make them is I decide the diameter and use an appropriate size drill or a piece of steel rod, because they very small diameter I put the drill into a pin vise backwards so that the smooth shank is sticking out, the pin vise I use doesn't have a knob on the handle it's straight, I put the pin vise in my cordless drill, set it to low speed. I insert the end of the small electrical wire(longer length of wire is easier to use) between the gap of the pin vise jaws and wrap it around the drill shank once or twice, I then hold the wire between my thumb and fore finger tightly with my fingers right up against the drill shank and slowly start the drill turning letting the wire slip under tension onto the drill shank, pulling slightly backwards to keep the coils tight together. I leave the finished coil on the shank and make adjustment if I want the coils more open and with the soft wire if you spread it too much, you can push them back closer together. The ends are another story, you need either really good strong tweezers or miniature needle nose pliers to manipulate the ends + PATIENCE + MAGNIFICATION!!! Nuts are "Meng" as well... Thank you for the radio information !!! Pat
  7. Finally totally finished the left side console, the last item was the bomb release control at the front end of the console just in front of the instrument panel, also added the throttle push rods... I started working on the right side of the cockpit, I didn't realize how many variations of equipment there are on B/C model Mustangs, I kept finding war time photos from manuals and factory images, many options...Anytime different radio equipment was installed it seems that different modules mounted on the right side wall... The large black panel with the toggle switches on it is similar on many ,but not always exactly the same layout... I took off today from the right wall and built the floor, Steve at "Model Monkey" was nice enough to enlarge his 3D printed 1:24 scale P-51 rudder pedals into 1:18 scale, they look great. I added the rudder cable and mounts with springs to the lower outside corners of the pedals, also I added springs to the inside sides of the pedals as I saw them on a photo of a full size restoration, I don't know if they will be visible once the center console is added though... I added birch veneer to the floor the same as "AIRSCALE" did on his "LOPE'S HOPE" , I brushed some clear lacquer on it and then some water based black with a brush and let it start drying and "stippled" it with a stiff brush to create some texture to look like anti-slip coating and then used a coarse sanding stick to "wear" it some, added some photo-etched screw heads into the panels... The rudder cable on the left side is cut off short as the cable on the real aircraft runs through/under the left console body...
  8. A little progress on the cockpit, I made up the throttle controls, the cover is made of aluminum, the levers aluminum sheet, the knobs styrene sprue turned in my hand drill, again using "AIRSCALE"'s decals to decorate, what a boost !!! The letters on the mixture and pitch control levers are dry transfers that I put on clear decal film and punched out into round decals to fit the knobs. I have installed the throttle and side console into the cockpit, I now have to start making the details for the right side...
  9. Hi Jay, the vendor I bought these from is : Autograph.com, they have switches listed as well but when you look at the specs on them the switches are too big for 1:18 scale, I based my purchase on the valve stems due to their listed dimensions (length and diameter)... Hope this helps... Pat
  10. Thanks Jay !!! I actually found these on-line, they are not switches, they are 1:20-1:24 scale tire stems for car models !!! I don't remember where I ordered them from, I think that they came from a place in Germany. The parts are white metal moldings , looks like they are made in Japan... Pat
  11. Thanks Craig !!!, the pink material is High density urethane foam board, sometimes refered to as "butterboard" or "pattern board", it comes in all types of density, the board I used for the pattern is probably about 30lbs per cubic foot. It's pretty hard but still easy to carve and saw, file, sand and it's plenty durable for vacuum forming. Pat
  12. Made a pattern for the left side console in the cockpit that has the trim tab knobs and wheel on it and other controls for flaps etc..Pattern done, styrene shot pulled... Made trim tab knobs from watch stem knobs, had to make the trim wheel from a thick styrene rod which I chucked up in a hand drill and used a file , chisel, sanding stick and sand paper to turn a facsimile. The levers are a combination of wire and aluminum sheet, the knobs on their ends are made from styrene rod. The decals are the "AIRSCALE" ones that Peter was kind enough to supply me.. Also I started putting an instrument panel together, thanks again for Peter's "LOPE'S HOPE" decals, beautiful stuff for sure, I still have alot left to do on it, I have to make the lower center console with the fuel controls and other things..
  13. Thank you for the information for thinner , very helpful for sure !!! How are your metal covered projects doing? haven't seen any updates lately, you do really great work !!! Pat
  14. Hi Jay, thank you !!! feel free to message me with questions, I'd be glad to help, like yourself I'm in the "Poke and Hope" stage still, it's a learning curve for sure, but it is such a fascinating departure from straight styrene modeling, I have really enjoyed it (so far...) Pat
  15. A HUGE shoutout of thanks to Peter a.k.a. "AIRSCALE", not only for his inspiring builds , he has also sent me some of his custom printed cockpit placard decals that were made for his P-51 "Lopes Hope" build !!! The decals are beautiful and such a great help to my build !!! THANK YOU AGAIN !!! I wanted to post this photo of the radiator control box located on the left side cockpit wall to show the detail of Peter's decals, I made the box from styrene,painted it added switches and applied the placard decals, the box is only about a 1/4"-6mm wide... Here are some views of the cockpit walls with some placard decals in place, the flare pistol port is a 3D printed part from "MODEL MONKEY"... I finished detailing the inside of the windshield frame and the instrument panel shroud , put in the clear windshield panels and started to put the aluminum around it... I finally got around to finish covering the radiator intake and bottom of the areas behind it...
  16. I have been using Weldwood as well, I clean up the glue with lacquer thinner, takes the glue right off, as the 21st century model is made of ABS the lacquer thinner attacks it a little bit but nothing to worry about when covering it up with aluminum, it is not as prone to it as styrene is, also I'll use Q-tips or a paper towl wrapped around my finger tip, just have to be careful if you are working around painted or detailed areas. As for thinning the contact cement I read somewhere that Toluene is supposed to work, I haven't tried it yet because my heardware store only has gallons and I don't feel like keeping that much around.. I have been changing -up how much cement I'm putting down, I have been taking alot more of the cement off of the brush when taking it out of the container, alot less seems to go a long way... I also purchased a bunch of throw away acid brushes, I got them off ebay, $9 for 25 with shipping. Pat
  17. Hi Jay, been following your Corsair build, it is coming out awesome !!! The chin scoop shape on the 21st Century mustang looks pretty good to me, the part is actually molded seperate from the fuselage. The real P-51's scoop is an aluminum casting, not sheet metal, so what I did was removed the scoop which I think wasn't even glued to the model, it is trapped between the fuselage halves. I sanded the fuselage areas directly behind the scoop slightly to make the area just a bit shy of the scoop's size to allow the .005 aluminum to live behind the molded scoop part and make a nice butt joint between the two, it was a pleasant suprise to find that the scoop was a seperate part, it makes life a bit more easy... The pattern for the windshield is made from bass wood, I layed out the side profile cut out the shape and the layed out the cross section shape on the large back end of the block and started carving, then alot of dremmel drum sanding and hand sanding... One thing I found while applying the aluminum skin was that I have both hardend aluminum and annealed, I find that the pre-annealed is a bit of a pain to cut where as the harded material is simply score and break, what I started doing for panels that have compoud curves is to make a tape(masking tape) template of the area on the model and then apply it to the hardened aluminum stock score and break it then over my gas cooking stove I hold the part with a pair of needle nose pliers and quickly anneal the part over the flame, I have been finding this easier than trying cut annealed material on the model next to other installed panels. Also I haven't been thinning my contact cement and I have found that the annealed material shows the brush marks of the cement which in turn needs to be sanded out of the aluminum, so out of curiosity one day I applied some cement and decided to swipe my finger over the still wet cement and sure enough it was smooth as glass, you have do this as soon as you put the cement down, no waiting... Looking forward to the progress on the Corsair and also this new P-51 !!!
  18. Today was Make a Windshield day, I've been putting this off forever, just didn't want to do it. This morning I just told myself, sit down make the pattern, form it, trim it and start making windows for it....
  19. I've always liked this "Bare Metal" scheme, I know there are plenty of others with less paint on them butt...
  20. Almost have the entire fuselage covered, still have to cover the forward part or the radiator scoop and put on the filets for the wings and stabs.... Pretty funny, I noticed right away that the second side of the fuselage aluminum looked much better than the first side, learning curve.. for sure !!!
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