LSP_Kevin Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Excellent work, John. Those exhausts look fantastic! Kev Scale32 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce_Crosby Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 That is one sweet Focke! Excellent workmanship. Regards, Bruce Crosby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Great show. Really good stuff. You're a better man than I am, Uncle Dan. Very nice. Sincerely, Mark fab and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Fantastic work! How did you apply the reddish brown color on the exhaust tubes? Chalk, wash, ... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Thanks guys! Fantastic work! How did you apply the reddish brown color on the exhaust tubes? Chalk, wash, ... ? The exhausts were first painted Alclad Steel and the Exhaust Manifold was sprayed on over that. The reddish brown was a mix of Tamiya paints (Red Brown + Red) and then dabbed onto the exhausts after removing most of the paint from the brush. Kind of like dry brushing but using a poking motion instead of a brush stroke, if that makes sense. The tips of the exhaust pipes were carefully sprayed with black as a final touch. The next step was to assemble the Henri Daehne prop. As far as the resin parts I've used, H-D's stuff is on top of the list in terms of the casting, the finish (no hint of grain or bubbles) and the completeness of the instructions. The individual prop blade mounts were glued into the central hub using 2-part epoxy as I wanted some time to make sure I got the angle correct. The prop components were prepped with base paints. Given the fact that the VS111 prop blades were made of wood, I painted the blades brown as a base. The prop spinner is painted white in preparation of the spiral. The spinner spiral is such a signature feature of many Luftwaffe aircraft and I want to make sure that it turns out well. On this build, I've elected to mask and spray the spiral instead of using a decal. I had trouble getting a decent result. Not much you can do besides wiping everything off and starting over. The following photos are after two unsatisfactory spiral attempts. A mask is cut from yellow kabuki tape using a spiral decal as a guide. After the mask is applied onto the white spinner, the black is sprayed on. The result wasn't very pretty with lots of overspray from the areas where the mask lifted. Since this was my third attempt, I was really frustrated upon seeing this and was very close to wiping it all off again and re-thinking my strategy. Instead, I thought I'd try to salvage it and let it dry overnight. Corrections to the back half of the spinner were relatively simple due to the gradual curvature of the spiral, which could be replicated easily with straight, narrow strips of tape. The paint repair gets trickier as you approach the front tip and the curvature of the spiral starts to tighten. Here I use combinations of flexible white Tamiya tape and pre-cut curved pieces of yellow Tamiya tape. After the paint repair, I have a spiral that I can live with. And since it is painted, the subtle details along the joint including the rivets are preserved. The prop is given a gloss coat to seal the repairs and then a pastel wash is applied over that to highlight those details. The prop hub is painted and given a dirty wash. The spinner is given a pastel wash and then a touch of dry pigments. I've also given the spinner some light chipping using colored pencils. Tolga ULGUR, Gazzas, Ralph-D and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Man Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Looking good. My VS5 Stuka set is on its way to me from Henri as we speak. I can't wait to see it as all I've heard about is the great quality of his sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Looking good, John! I learned to mask spinner spirals from the master himself: Radu Brinzan. And luckily, his tutorial is still online: http://homepage.eircom.net/~radub/Hints%20and%20tips/Spinnerspiral/Spinnerspiral.htm Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Looking good. My VS5 Stuka set is on its way to me from Henri as we speak. I can't wait to see it as all I've heard about is the great quality of his sets. You will not be disappointed! Henri goes a few steps beyond what most resin parts suppliers provide. It will be obvious when you see the fit and finish of his parts. I'm excited for you! Back to Black 1, the prop assembly is further documented with the blades. After the brown base coat, the blades are given a few coats of hairspray to enable chipping on the blades. This is done after a coat of Black Green is applied over the blades. After chipping, the blades are given a gloss coat and the manufacturer stencil decal is applied. The primary weathering given to the blades is using the salt fading technique. Water is applied over the surface of the prop blades. Salt crystals are then sprinkled onto the wet areas. This random pattern of salt crystals will form a mask. After the water evaporates, a highly-thinned mixture of grey is misted over the prop blades in random streaks. On these particular blades, I performed this process three times to get the desired layered wear effect, each time using a slightly different shade of grey. The weathered blades are given some more chipping using colored pencils. Here are the prop blades inserted into the hub. The fit is super tight and doesn't require any glue. And finally, the prop and spinner components all together. The spinner has not yet been permanently attached to the spinner backplate yet. Next will be the drop tank. G-Man, Gazzas, sandokan and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branko Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Amazing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 That Propeller looks fantastic John. Just one detail regarding the construction of VS 111. The leading edge was protected by bras stripe and at the end of the manufacturing process the whole wooden piece was sealed with fabric/resin covering. Manufacturing sequence of the prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiZac Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 If I were you, John, I'd leave the spinner unglued: you wrote earlier you were torn as to whether you wanted to hide all that amazing hub detail and I agree, hopefully it's practical for you to have it removable? Scale32 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Thanks guys! The picture of the prop blade manufacturing sequence is fascinating, Martin! And that info will catalogued for the future. I don't think the chipping that I've done, minor as it is, gives the impression of a wood texture underneath although that was the original intention so hopefully, it will not be construed as inaccurate. I wish I could leave the spinner unattached. It's not a tight fit at all and would be susceptible to slipping off at any moment but I'll take a closer look at it. KiwiZac 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale32 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 The weathering of the blades looks very effective. How would you replicate chipping on the leading edge if it was made of brass? Excellent work again. Cheers Bevan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringleheim Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 This is a really nice build. I am a big fan of the FW-190 dora series so I am really enjoying the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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