G-Man

The 109 looks good, good luck with the 17. On a side note, pretty sure you can put the wheels up on any 109 model. I did on my Eduard E4, I just shaved the tires down, and glued them in there. Then glued on the the landing gear covers.

It's definitely the Fawcett nose, I have it on my Trumpeter Stuka. The kit one is the wrong shape and undersized.

Looking good, your Fawcett nose seems to fit nice. Mine required a lot of work to look acceptable.

Looks great so far! I have this kit in my stash and plan on doing his last plane using the Eagle Cals sheet. Read his book if you haven't yet, I really enjoyed it.

Their 109 turns out really well in the end. I don't enjoy the seam in the lower nose, but the rest of the kit is nice. Also, I like their instruction books the best, very clear images. It's a shame they don't do more 1/32. They still get my money for their photo etch though.

I read that Paul Allen purchased at least 3 wrecked Stukas to make this one. Plus they can go to Chicago to look at that one. I didn't read anywhere if they had plans or blueprints they were using. This restoration has been pretty much hush hush until the reveal last year.

I have more 109's in my stash than anything else, I don't think I need anymore. A Spanish D, E-1, E-3, E-7, and an F Special. Plus I've already built an E-4.

Yes, that's it. They are restoring it to fly, they are even rebuilding a Jumo engine for it. I'm flying out to Seattle when it's done.

Yup, the Paul Allen Stuka should be completed by next year I believe. Also, I remember reading that the Revell kit has accurate shaped wheel spats. Tom Cleaver used them on his build for Modeling Madness.

The 21st looks a bit toyish to me, not overly complicated to build. I didn't build it, just bought it for the decals and other bits I robbed. It lacks a lot of detail, but I suppose could be added if you wanted to put the work in.

This looks exactly like the 1/32 Stuka Trumpeter kit, I built it last year. Overall, it is a nice kit, but I couldn't live with the flaws. I used the Fawcett nose and spats, along with the Dahne prop assembly. I also used the bomb clutch and tail wheel from the 21st Century kit. And I got a resin SC250 because the bomb in the kit is wrong. With all my corrections, I think it looks pretty close.

I'm planning my first trip to London in May. Do you guys know of any reputable WW2 military antique shops in the city? Are there dealers who sell pieces from crashed warbirds? I'm specifically looking for German stuff.

I like using Testors clear parts glue for the dial glass. I smear it on the backside of the top of the sandwich, filling all the holes. Let it dry, then glue it to the back piece. Always looks great.

Very cool, the King is enormous. I went to the Panzermuseum in Munster and saw theirs, wow. I highly recommend that place, they have just about every German tank on display.

Can this be built without the engine? I have 2 in my stash.

That would be awesome.

Ok, I may give it a try. I might also dip the broken pieces in future and then glue them back together, just to see how it looks.

Can I bend the acetate to fit a form?

Thank you! That is an option. Still would need to figure out the other broken piece, it's on the bottom. I may be able to conceal it as part of it gets painted.

I just acquired a sealed Ju 88A-1 kit on Ebay but 2 of the canopy pieces are broken in half. How do I go about repairing these, or should I wait for Revell to start offering replacement parts again?

I'm using Mr. Surfacer 1200 as primer. I used super glue to fill a join line, so no putty was present. I let the glue dry a day before sanding on it and I finished sanding with 12000. Then primed several days later. I'm thinking maybe I don't need to finish in 12000, just not sure what grit I can stop at.

When sanding gaps, scratches, or whatever on the actual model plastic, what grit do you finish at? I've just run into an issue where my primer isn't sticking to the model where I repaired a gap. It won't feather out, the primer just keeps chipping off when sanded. So what grit do I stop at that will hold the paint and be filled by the primer?

I've found that wiping down my paint booth with Windex will kill the dust before painting. It really helps. My question is, can it be used to wipe down bare plastic before paint? What about a primed model? Or one with paint? Or clear? I use Mr. Color, will Windex eat this paint?

I have to coat it with straight leveling thinner after spraying the clear. Otherwise, it doesn't look right.

I use AK 2038 Smoke pigment. I actually bought the exhaust stain set which includes a few different useful colors.