Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9 Black One

[Thunnus]

Thanks for checking into this build!  The comments are much appreciated!

 

 

Sorry to see the paint lifting

Also odd that the primer came off as well

I'm on my phone now so navigation is limited - can you remind us what primer and what paints you used?

All the best
Nick

 

 

I am spraying mostly Tamiya acrylics (with a bit of old Gunze-Sangyo acrylics as well).  I use Mr Surfacer 1000 cut with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner as a primer.  Could finger oils produce this kind of lifting.  I am normally careful to wear gloves DURING the painting process but I know that the area of the black/white ID band was a common place for me to hold the model during construction.  Perhaps I did not clean off the modeling surfaces well enough prior to painting?  And my thinned paint finishes tend to be on the fragile side.

[VintageEagle]

That looks fantastic! I have a few more questions:

 

- What products did you use for the pastel wash and how did you apply the streaks on the fuel tank (blowing, brush)?

 

- What gloss and what flat coat products did you use? How did you thin them? Did you polish the paint in the fuel tank before applying the clear coat? I had some frosting when I tried both Tamiya and Mr Color flat coats.

 

Thanks! Looking forwards to your next posts.

[Thunnus]

On 11/7/2017 at 8:39 AM, VintageEagle said:

That looks fantastic! I have a few more questions:

 

- What products did you use for the pastel wash and how did you apply the streaks on the fuel tank (blowing, brush)?

 

- What gloss and what flat coat products did you use? How did you thin them? Did you polish the paint in the fuel tank before applying the clear coat? I had some frosting when I tried both Tamiya and Mr Color flat coats.

 

Thanks! Looking forwards to your next posts.

 

I create my own pastel washes from pastel chalk.  Simply scrape some chalk shavings into a bit of water and then add a drop of dishwashing soap to ease the surface tension, which helps the mixing process.  Since it is water-based, it is very benign and has no ill effect on my acrylic finishes.  The streaks on the drop tank were brushed on.

 

 

 

Thank you!  More than happy to answer any questions.  I am currently using Alclad Aqua Gloss for my gloss coat and Aqua Gloss + Tamiya Flat Base for my flat coat.  I like the Aqua Gloss very much... it is easy to work with, thins nicely with iso alcohol and dries fast and hard.  If I want a high gloss finish, I'll add a few drops of Mr Leveling Thinner and spray it on a little thicker and "wetter" than my normal semi-gloss finish.  But I have to be careful with the Mr Leveling Thinner as it will eat through my thin camo paint into the black pre-shading.  I'm still not completely happy with my flat coat solution.  I too get some frosting when I use the Aqua Gloss + Tamiya Flat Base if my mix ratios are not perfect.  I've played with Tamiya Clear Flat and Testors Dullcote but haven't found something that I'm 100% satisfied with.  I didn't get frosting when I used Alclad Klear Kote Flat.  I loved that finish but ran into the problem of the stuff not curing completely, even after days and days.

Edited December 10, 2018 by Thunnus
Photo links restored

[Out2gtcha]

Thunnus the Dora Exlplora!

 

 

This looks absolutely WONDERFUL

[Thunnus]

Time for the markings.  Instead of decals, I've chosen to use Montex masks for the national markings.  Montex does not make a mask set particularly for Black 1 so I had to do a bit of research first.  Based on the information in Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume 1, I learned that Black 1 was one of the first Doras delivered for service and featured the early style crosses.  Full black and white crosses underwing and on the fuselage sides.  I stumbled onto the Montex Mask set for the Galland Circus, of which both portrayed aircraft (Red 1 and Red 13) had the early style crosses.  Quick cross referencing of Red 13 and Black confirmed that they shared the same size/style of crosses: 800mm Black and White crosses on the fusleage, 910mm White crosses on top of the wing and 900mm Black and White crosses under the wings.

 

The cross outline masks were placed first.  I like to border the mask with Post-Its as this eases handling and placement of the masks considerably.

 

 

The black is sprayed on first.  You have options on how you want to paint a multi-color mask.  I chose the route with the least amount of mask manipulation but it required me to paint the darker color first, which may have drawbacks as you will later see.

 

 

After the black (actually very dark grey) is allowed to dry.  The central cross mask is carefully applied.  Montex masks are vinyl and can stretch a bit upon application.  This stretching was evident as the center cross mask didn't fit perfectly within the outer mask.

 

 

The white portions of the cross are sprayed next.

 

 

If it turns out right, you'll have a marking that is much superior to a decal.

 

 

The upper wing crosses are simpler to do since they are a single color.

 

 

The fuselage crosses and swastika are all painted in a similar manner.

 

 

 

I used the "1" from the "13" mask to paint the black "1".  If you look closely, you'll see the fuselage crosses have a thin edge of black along the edges of white that need to be corrected.

 

 

https://i.postimg.cc/ry5qB0xy/IMG_0681.jpg

 

 

Edited December 10, 2018 by Thunnus
Photo links restored

[monthebiff]

Looks superb Thunnas, your chosen scheme is very striking........keep going.

 

Regards. Andy

[dodgem37]

Good stuff.  Nice save.  Nice mottling.  Great show.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

[Scale32]

Looking fantastic Thunnus and at a cracking pace too I might add!

 

Cheers Bevan

[G-Man]

The markings really set it off.

[Dpgsbody55]

Very nice!!!

[KiwiZac]

What they said! I love the camouflage, and your step-by-step of the insignia painting is quite interesting.

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys!  Please call me John!

 

Since the markings were masked, the decal work is much reduced.... the black/white wave marking on the ID band, the Werknumber on the tail and some stenciling.

 

https://i.postimg.cc/ZRSTXSbn/IMG_0703.jpg

 

https://i.postimg.cc/hj60vjf4/IMG_0711.jpg

 

The paint lift repair on the starboard side was too noticeable and I was compelled to address it before moving on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the decaling finished, I could move on to weathering.

 

Edited December 10, 2018 by Thunnus
Photo links restored

[Out2gtcha]

Superb John!   I love the paint work. I love painted on markings too.....................SO much in fact I ended up getting a plotter/cutter to cut my own paint masks. Its been by far and away the best decision Ive made. Being unencumbered by any of the OOB schemes is really refreshing. 

 

  Really well done, and looking forward to more! 

[Martinnfb]

Absolutely stellar work John ! 

Cheers

M.

[Thunnus]

It's time to put some wear and tear on Black 1.  After another gloss coat to seal the decals, she looks much too bright and shiny for a warbird in service.

 

 

My first weathering step is post-shading of some panel lines using brown/black mix.  This is kept very light and very subtle.  I want to start adding layers of wear but avoid overemphasis of the panel lines.  At this time, I add some random streaking as well, concentrating on the centerline area and behind the engine, where you would expect increased wear.

 

 

This is carried through to the fuselage sides.  I'm not going to do this with the darker top colors... I have different plans for weathering on those areas.

 

 

 

The next weathering step is a pastel wash.  I use a homemade mix for my washes.  Very easy to do... just scrape some shavings from a pastel chalk and mix it with a small amount of water.  I add a drop of dishwashing soap to help aid in mixing.  The wash is spread over all of the rivets, raised detail areas and panel lines.

 

 

I like to work in subsections so I can keep track of the washed areas.  After drying, the wash is wiped off using a lightly damped paper towel.

 

 

Depending on the effect you want to achieve, you can leave some of the streaking behind.  Make sure your finishing wipes are in the direction of the air flowing across the surface of moving airplane.

 

 

This is point where you start to see the different levels of weathering finally coming together to present a unified effect.  Remember that crazy mottling pattern that I did before the RLM 76 was applied?  That pre-shading works with the post-shading and pastel wash to create illusion of depth and wear.

 

 

 

 

 

Let's pull back and take a look at what we've done so far.  I find it helpful to pause, walk away to clear your mind and then come back to inspect your work on  periodic basis when in the painting and weathering stage.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2018 by Thunnus
Photo links restored