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G-Man

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    120
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About G-Man

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 01/22/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  1. I'm planning my first trip to London in May. Do you guys know of any reputable WW2 military antique shops in the city? Are there dealers who sell pieces from crashed warbirds? I'm specifically looking for German stuff.
  2. I like using Testors clear parts glue for the dial glass. I smear it on the backside of the top of the sandwich, filling all the holes. Let it dry, then glue it to the back piece. Always looks great.
  3. Very cool, the King is enormous. I went to the Panzermuseum in Munster and saw theirs, wow. I highly recommend that place, they have just about every German tank on display.
  4. Can this be built without the engine? I have 2 in my stash.
  5. Ok, I may give it a try. I might also dip the broken pieces in future and then glue them back together, just to see how it looks.
  6. Thank you! That is an option. Still would need to figure out the other broken piece, it's on the bottom. I may be able to conceal it as part of it gets painted.
  7. I just acquired a sealed Ju 88A-1 kit on Ebay but 2 of the canopy pieces are broken in half. How do I go about repairing these, or should I wait for Revell to start offering replacement parts again?
  8. I'm using Mr. Surfacer 1200 as primer. I used super glue to fill a join line, so no putty was present. I let the glue dry a day before sanding on it and I finished sanding with 12000. Then primed several days later. I'm thinking maybe I don't need to finish in 12000, just not sure what grit I can stop at.
  9. When sanding gaps, scratches, or whatever on the actual model plastic, what grit do you finish at? I've just run into an issue where my primer isn't sticking to the model where I repaired a gap. It won't feather out, the primer just keeps chipping off when sanded. So what grit do I stop at that will hold the paint and be filled by the primer?
  10. I've found that wiping down my paint booth with Windex will kill the dust before painting. It really helps. My question is, can it be used to wipe down bare plastic before paint? What about a primed model? Or one with paint? Or clear? I use Mr. Color, will Windex eat this paint?
  11. I have to coat it with straight leveling thinner after spraying the clear. Otherwise, it doesn't look right.
  12. You'll love it. It sprays silky smooth and has a quick drying time.
  13. I use AK 2038 Smoke pigment. I actually bought the exhaust stain set which includes a few different useful colors.
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