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Kawanishi N1K1 Kyofu Type 11 Rex


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My turn!


'That's a lot of chain inside the cowl. Is that what actuates the cowl flaps? '

I'm not a mavin, but I would guess so.


Not much, but something.


Filled the interstices with clay.  Not as easy to shape as I initially thought.  Maybe I'll use melted wax as a filler next time.  I know that's easy to shape.



And cast it.  The spacer got I lost in translation so I made a new one.  Needs finishing.



Cast a new master outboard float.



I squared the nose to the base, but the opening was out of round.  So I temporarily glued the engine in, drilled through the firewall so I could extend the drive shaft for additional stability, made a spacer from the engine nose to the cowling opening, cut a 30mm diameter circle, filed the hole, slid it on, and glued it in place.



There were places where the opening was in the right place and a lot of other places not so much.  As at the top, for example.



Filled and shaped Sculpy.



The profile is better.  Now all I need do is sand to shape.



Close enough for government work.


Thank you for looking and liking.




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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for the wonderful compliment, Kevin.  It is a privilege for me to be so well received.


Thank you, Alan.

'I don’t know if this is modeling or engineering!!'

A little bit of both, it seems.


Thank you, Kevin.  This build has for me required a diversion at times.  I do a lot of scratch building, which has become second nature, but this is the first airplane conversion I've ever attempted.  Lots of new ground challenging the brain cells.


Thank you, Brian.  Superficially this didn't seem very much.  Especially since I had the Horizon vac.  I put a lot of faith in the vac being accurate.  But once I started to study everything it became clear it isn't as accurate as it seems.  I am doing tasks that I really don't want to do but need to be done.


Onward thu the fog.  Not perfectly perfect, but perfect enough for me for now.  Where to begin?



Located the propeller on it's own base so it could be slipped onto the brass drive shaft.



Made the cone separate.  Sunny side



Shady side.  Notches for the prop.  Rough dig-out for prop base.



Spinner base.  Notches for prop.  Decided to use Sculpy as a filler instead of clay.



Removed the circle and did some sanding.  The leading edge is not razer sharp.  The leading edge has a return.  Still working on evening that up.



Prop on spinner base.



All together now.



Gotta match this.  Well, I don't GOTTA, but it would be better than not if I did.



Almost there.


Thank you for your wonderful comments, looking, and liking.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you, Shawn.


Reworked the spinner and cowling.  The earlier one I just made.  This go-around I drafted everything so spacings would be equal.


Remade the prop base.  Still has some tac on it.



Props in place.



Shady side.  Made sure the side walls were equally spaced this time.  4mm.



Where to begin?  The cowling nose is not razer sharp.  It has a rounded return.  While attempting to sand the nose to have a flat surface that I could round I sanded it crooked.  Lucky me.  So I had to start over again by putting it into the box and gluing pieces to the cowling to raise the edge to 46mm.  I only glued enough spacers to be able to glue a .040 thick by 30mm diameter disc onto it.  Then I filled the space with scrap and Apoxy  Sculpt and sanded it.  The cowling in now 47mm deep instead of 46.  I'm going with it.  I'm ready to move on.  I've spent weeks doing this.  I'll get back to it some other time.  I then cut out a 28mm disc and threaded it onto the prop shaft.  I drew a 28mm circle onto the glued on .040 disc which gave me a 1mm lip that, after I had cut out the interior, I could sand in the round.



Looks similar to before, but different.



Not a perfect match to the drawing but it will have to do for now.






Edited by dodgem37
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