Chek Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Nice work on those flared fillets Quang. A very noticeable improvement to the area. One thing I like to do with Milliput (or any porous putty type filler) after sanding and shaping, but before removing the tape guide, is to smear thin cyano along the edge with a fingertip. That both seals and binds the edge to deter flaking. A quick slice with a blade before it fully cures and goes brittle gives a clean, thin edge. It isn't always 100% perfect - what is in modelling? - but it helps I find, Of course, you then spend the rest of the evening chewing hardened superglue and layers of skin off your fingertip, but it's a small price to pay. Uncarina, airscale and quang 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Flare looks nice, Quang! quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Well done, Quang! I can see a couple of spots in the Milliput that look like they might need a bit more work, but it's still an impressive result. Kev quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 So I found a pic that looks like the openings in the gear bay 'are' covered in something clear. This is a resto, but hey. HTH Chek, Sakai and quang 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 So I found a pic that looks like the openings in the gear bay 'are' covered in something clear. This is a resto, but hey. Nice pic, Mike. Incidentally the 6 screws surrounding the opening – and supposedly securing the clear cover – are also present on the kit part. Well done, Quang! I can see a couple of spots in the Milliput that look like they might need a bit more work, but it's still an impressive result. Kev Indeed Kev. But that's what the primer is for, isn't it? Revealing the blemishes? Now it would easier to smooth it out without the two vertical vents standing in the way. The most infuriating thing is that those vents are only present on tropicalized a/c like the one I chose to model. Go figure @Chek: nice anti-flaking tip! I will try it next time. Thank you all gents for your input. Sincerely, Q Sakai 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxos345 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Remarkable work ''Q''!!!! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) Remarkable work ''Q''!!!! John Much obliged, James! Q Edited July 19, 2016 by quang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alberto49 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Very nice, I will follow carefully because I just started to do the same kit. Alberto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hello again, Now that we're getting nearer to completion (ever the optimist ), it's about time to choose a finishing scheme. I'd like to portray an a/c of the Desert Air Force late 1941. The general practice during that period was to remove the two outboard cannons on the Mk IIc to gain weight. Was this modification made in the field? What happened to the resulting hole? Was it covered with a canvas patch or was the original metal panel re-used? I did search my documentation and the web but found nothing. I'm counting on you Hurricane experts to chime in and shed a light in that matter. Thank you all for your comments past and future, Cheers, Quang Sakai and Chek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hmmm...I don't recall seeing any cases of that either, Quang. I will take a look when I get back home this weekend. Didn't see any mention of it in the manual, either (though I suppose it really wouldn't need to be there). Are you going to go for the Master barrels? And which type? It looks like Type II in the photo above. I need to get a set of Type II's for the Sea Hurricane I plan on building (Nikki). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Ray, Fly has resin Type II cannons released as an accessory. You can buy direct from them for under 3 EUR (+ 9.50 EUR postage!). The Master set of 4 brass barrels are very good ( and very expensive) but will be an overkill as I only need 2 of them. Think I'll get the FLY cannons. Still looking for something else to order to justify the 9.50 EUR postage. I know, I'm CHEAP Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Oh! Thanks for the info, Quang, didn't know that! Those Master barrels look really good, though... Get a Sea Hurricane and they can just throw them in the box! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 A few views of the nearly completed fuselage underside. Radiator installed and drain holes added. The drain holes are remnants of the biplane age when holes were made under the fuselage to evacuate moisture and prevent the canvas from rotting. Filter and radiator look desperately bare. They definitively need positive rivets of some sort. also note added spar. No matter short, it will help keep the wing with the correct dihedral (anhedral?). Note hoisting point at the rear. It's moulded on the kit part as a small indentation. Needs to be drilled out and enlarged. While I'm at it, here's how the wing looks like under a coat of Vallejo surface primer. Small saw cuts separate the aileron and give 3D effect. That's all folks! Until next time. Cheers, Quang airscale, Chek, Sakai and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 This is a fantastic build Quang. You are basically creating the essential builders guide for the kit. I know I'll be using this for reference whenever I finally get to my kit. Carl Shawn M and Sakai 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) That's coming along really well Quang. As I'm still fiddling about with the cockpit, and impatient to see as much completed aeroplane as you've got now! As to your questions. I skimmed through a couple of dozen Hurricane titles and found one small fuzzy photo of a Burma Hurri with only the two inner cannon fitted. The outer fairing location appears as a smooth leading edge, and given the placement I'm inclined to think a sheet metal cover would be fitted It's the sort of simple shape a car garage with a panel beater on staff could hammer out, rather than using fabric patches which can be seen to 'dish' under normal aerodynamic loads even just covering the MG ports. The accompanying text referred to a shortage of AP ammunition, though how long that lasted for isn't mentioned in the section I read. The notoriously light armour of Japanese planes in 1942 might also have been a factor. I couldn't find any desert ones, but I skimmed rather than read carefully. No photos however. The Russians also fitted two of their own type of cannon, but extremely crudely, just poking them through the Hispano brackets with no attempt at fairing them and all four Hispano fairings in place. The wing centre section according to the Pilot's notes is zero dihedral, and the outer planes are 3º30" on the datum line. Matt in his build handily interprets this as 1º30" on the upper surfaces, and due to the wing taper 5º on the undersides. Edited July 21, 2016 by Chek Sakai 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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