dodgem37 Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Nice work. Great show. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbgtv8steve Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Fantastic work Quang! I've been following your build very closely as I have mine in progress as we speak and I'm not ashamed to admit that your WIP has greatly assisted!!! One question - is that the kit supplied rear/main canopy you've shown trial fitted or is the aftermarket one? Does it fit or is it just 'placed' on? Keep up the good work - I'm really enjoying it! Regards, Steve S. quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) I'm considering getting one of these and your build/research will come in very handy! Nice job. Update: Ordered one from a shop in Poland via eBay. $69.70 including shipping. Not too bad I'd say. Good John. The more the merrier. Come to think of it, I started this kit as a diversion from my stalled Kitty Hawk P-39. I knew nothing about Hurricanes but there's something in this kit that makes me dig deeper and deeper as I went along. Fantastic work Quang! I've been following your build very closely as I have mine in progress as we speak and I'm not ashamed to admit that your WIP has greatly assisted!!! One question - is that the kit supplied rear/main canopy you've shown trial fitted or is the aftermarket one? Does it fit or is it just 'placed' on? Keep up the good work - I'm really enjoying it! Regards, Steve S. Glad you found this WIP of some help. As for the canopy, the one supplied in the kit is too thick to be represented in the open position. That is why Fly offers a vac-formed accessory as an alternative. The problem is that the framing moulded on the Fly vacform canopy is not as crisp as I would like it to be. So I decided to make my own. The stock canopy is used as a master for the new vac-form. First the inside of the clear part is painted black. The part is then filled with milliput and the moulded framing removed by careful sanding. Note how the milliput extends on both sides and the bottom of the canopy. It will help to trim the vac-form canopy to size later on. A first moulding is made from clear acetate. A second moulding is made over it, this time using white plasticard. Strips of masking tape are then added to represent the framing. The whole canopy is painted black using a felt pen. The masking tape strips are then removed revealing the framing in its full glory. Now the fun part: the black squares are removed using a new, sharp X-Acto blade. The result is a full framing in plasticard. The framing is then painted in interior green then glued to the clear canopy using PVA adhesive trimmed and details added. Then the whole assembly is dipped in a Future/Kleer bath to seal everything off Test fit Note that the forward port glass panel is removable in case of emergency. On the real a/c of course! Until next time, Keep well, Quang Edited August 10, 2016 by quang Rocat, Kagemusha, Sakai and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Brilliant! How come the clear and white plastic layers don't bond together when you vac one over the other? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Brilliant! How come the clear and white plastic layers don't bond together when you vac one over the other? Kev I guess the temperature is not high enough to bond the two layers together. Remember the Mattel Vac-U-form was a toy, meant for kids (like us ). So I guess it was under the toys & games safety regulations. Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbgtv8steve Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 So Quang, when will you be going into production of these little beauties?! Most impressive! Steve S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Quang, Awesome work and if you decide to mold a few for sale; I'm in. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Holy Moly, that's a lot of work for the canopy, Quang, but it sure looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 FLY has obligingly done the rivets in the leading edge areas in engraved fashion, thinking that it would be easier for us to restore them after sanding. But now that I've learned how to do it, it would be even easier to replace the lost details by Archer rivets. Hopefully Not so nice really, the rivets on the leading edge back to near the crest of the upper surface are supposed to be flush riveted. It appears they (Fly) did their research on that detail. quang and alaninaustria 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) Most airframes have flush riveted surfaces on the leading edges and forward fuselage areas. The farther back - the more "proud" rivets are normally to be found. One important reason for this is that the "proud" rivets act as small vortex generators which reenergize airflow over areas that sufer from boundary flow seperation. This is just a simple explanation of an otherwise complex aerodynamic problem that many aircraft suffer from in the empenage area of the fuselage. Cheers Alan Edited August 11, 2016 by alaninaustria quang 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Super Duper! Love that! Great stuff! Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Not so nice really, the rivets on the leading edge back to near the crest of the upper surface are supposed to be flush riveted. It appears they (Fly) did their research on that detail. Most airframes have flush riveted surfaces on the leading edges and forward fuselage areas. The farther back - the more "proud" rivets are nirmally to be found. One important reason for this is that the "proud" rivets act as small vortex generators which reenergize airflow over areas that sufer from boundary flow seperation. This is just a simple explanation of an otherwise complex aerodynamic problem that many aircraft suffer from in the empanage area of the fuselage. Cheers Alan It does make sense. I've never thought of it that way. Just learned something new today. Thanks guys! Holy Moly, that's a lot of work for the canopy, Quang, but it sure looks good! It looks like a lot of work but it's actually smooth flowing once you set the wheels in motion. So Quang, when will you be going into production of these little beauties?! Most impressive! Steve S. Quang, Awesome work and if you decide to mold a few for sale; I'm in. Keep 'em coming Peter It would be very difficult for me to produce the canopy in multiple samples as I don't own the vacform machine to do it. Having said that, you can easily do it by plug moulding. It would take several tries but it can be done. Really. Thank you all for your kind words, Cheers, Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcop Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Quang " Having said that, you can easily do it by plug moulding. It would take several tries but it can be done. Really." You little b...... ! Easy said now ! While you are having some well deserved rest in the countryside, I am still taking care of my left thumb and I can't help spitting out the upper part of what remains of my left lung. Don't know why but while coughing it's still tasting plastic. By the way, I was having a Mikado game yesterday, I was missing one stick , any idea ? Have a nice rest ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Quang " Having said that, you can easily do it by plug moulding. It would take several tries but it can be done. Really." You little b...... ! Easy said now ! While you are having some well deserved rest in the countryside, I am still taking tecare of my left thumb and I can't help spitting out the upper part of what remains of my left lung. Don't know why but while coughing it's still tasting plastic. By the way, I was having a Mikado game yesterday, I was missing one stick , any idea ? Have a nice rest ... Haha! Nothing new here. Apparently you've forgotten the numerous times we suffered sore thumbs and toxic fumes while using your rusty yet faithful vacuform machine. It's true, it was a long, long time ago. When we were young, remember? As for the Mikado stick, I used it to poke the clear plastic to see if it's at the right temperature. It must be somewhere on your cluttered yet 'organized' desk. Greetings from out in the sticks, Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Texan Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Wow! Great stuff right here!!!! Nice build!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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