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1/32 FLY Hurricane: spinning wild


quang

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FYI, Quang: Found another detail missing from the kit in the wheel wells. There should be a starter crank stowed on the blank wall on the outer starboard side. Simple addition.

You can see it on page 95 of Modeler's Datafile #2, photo number 25, although they show it on the port side. Hmmm... Both the Hurri II Manual and the Airfix book, Classic Aircraft #4: Hawker Hurricane (page #81) show it on the Starboard side.

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In fact there were TWO! I made the cranks but discarded them as I wasn't sure where to put them. Now I know. Thanks Ray!

 

The cranks were used for manually starting the engine through holes in the engine panel (that Fly also left out).

Nose%20arrow.jpg

 

Also note the reworked Vokes filter and oil ring (used to deflect oil from leaking propeller).

There's a trillion things one can add to super-detail the Fly kit. It's where all the fun is.

 

Cheers,

Q

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I'd say it's looking good Quang, except it's not.

It's looking a total mess. I'm sure it'll look better once some more paint is on!  :)

 

Have you replaced the oil ring with wire? I looks a bit chunkier than the kit one.

 

Also the throat of the Vokes filter looks deeper. Did you find anything definitive on them?

 

I'm interested because some photos look like the intake mouth *may* have been widened (by brute force and wedges) to increase airflow.

But it's not that simple.

My brother in law designs airboxes for Formula racing cars and bikes, and there's a fair amount of sciencey stuff involved in providing a smooth airflow as the engine demands it.

Which I'm sure the engineers at Vokes and Rolls-Royce were well aware of 70 years ago too and would have passed on to the MU tech. officers..

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I know, I know. It's looks messy right now but hopefully it would be clearer after a light shot of primer tomorrow.

 

About the Vokes filters, I stuck on the ones shown on Hurris during the North African campaign. The distance between the 'mouth' and the fuselage is greater than on the kit part. Also there's more 'pouting' to the lips  :rolleyes:

 

I guess there was a lot of trial-and-error on the field before they got a correct airflow. I found nothing definitive but I gotta stop somewhere.

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Have you replaced the oil ring with wire? I looks a bit chunkier than the kit one.

 

The nose section just behind the spinner plate has been widened a tad.

The kit oil deflector ring is a bit undersized and undefined so I made a new one from milliput with a proper L section. The mods will be more visible with a coat of primer. Soon... ;)

 

Nice work so far ''Q'' cant wait to see more....

 

John

 

Thanks John!

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I know, I know. It's looks messy right now but hopefully it would be clearer after a light shot of primer tomorrow.

 

About the Vokes filters, I stuck on the ones shown on Hurris during the North African campaign. The distance between the 'mouth' and the fuselage is greater than on the kit part. Also there's more 'pouting' to the lips  :rolleyes:

 

I guess there was a lot of trial-and-error on the field before they got a correct airflow. I found nothing definitive but I gotta stop somewhere.

 

Seriously though Q, it's coming along really well.

I'll study your Vokes solution in more detail as your build progresses as mine will go on a very dusty and worn Western Desert IID tankbuster with the big Vickers guns when it's released.

Has to be a 6 Sqn can opener, of course.

 

And thanks for the reminder to thin the cowling where the starter crank enters!

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In fact there were TWO! I made the cranks but discarded them as I wasn't sure where to put them. Now I know. Thanks Ray!

 

The cranks were used for manually starting the engine through holes in the engine panel (that Fly also left out).

 

 

Cheers,

Q

That is looking much better, Q! You are really improving this kit.

There being two cranks now makes sense to me. The drawing in the manual shows an opening on both sides of the rear of the wheel well, but only called out what the starboard one was for. I was wondering why there were two fittings but only one crank. Now I know. And that explains why the photos show them on both sides.

It is my feeling the surface detail on the fuselage is not quite nice as that on the wings, which is incredible. The Dzu's are a little weak for one. I guess better than the oversized ones on the PCM kit, though.

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I'll study your Vokes solution in more detail as your build progresses as mine will go on a very dusty and worn Western Desert IID tankbuster with the big Vickers guns when it's released.

Has to be a 6 Sqn can opener, of course.

 

Chek, you're reading my mind. It's this painting by Adam Tooby that made me go for the Vokes. Even if they're NOT Mk.IIC.

 

9a1ede_d944e141189244adbd2e851f0cb1cf13.

 

It is my feeling the surface detail on the fuselage is not quite nice as that on the wings, which is incredible. The Dzu's are a little weak for one. I guess better than the oversized ones on the PCM kit, though.

 

Indeed, Ray.

The retracting step locator under the wing root also needs some help.

E07D9EAB-E20F-44F9-9D2F-37237C048DD4.jpg

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It is my feeling the surface detail on the fuselage is not quite nice as that on the wings, which is incredible. The Dzu's are a little weak for one. I guess better than the oversized ones on the PCM kit, though.

 

 

 

I made a multi hypo-tubed affair which works well on vac-forms, as the pressure of indenting also creates the slight dishing required,

then a few ancillary pricks with a hollow pen nib for the surrounding screw fixings.

Here's an example on an ID 1/32 Swordfish vac  I built some years ago. I hope the thicker Fly plastic takes the strain!

 

Swordfish%20I%20ID%201-32%20cowling%20de

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In fact there were TWO! I made the cranks but discarded them as I wasn't sure where to put them. Now I know. Thanks Ray!

 

The cranks were used for manually starting the engine through holes in the engine panel (that Fly also left out).

Nose%20arrow.jpg

 

Also note the reworked Vokes filter and oil ring (used to deflect oil from leaking propeller).

There's a trillion things one can add to super-detail the Fly kit. It's where all the fun is.

 

Cheers,

Q

 

There's a missing fastener aft of the starter hole too.

3 on each side should be 4.

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There's a missing fastener aft of the starter hole too.

3 on each side should be 4.

 Y'know, there are - hard to believe, but it's true - some people who detest that kind of nit-picking, fault-finding.

 

Bur I'm not one of them, and really appreciate the benefit of your eagle eye.

Edited by Chek
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