Cees Broere Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The horn balances are hollow, so if you want your elevators drooped you need to fill them. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbob Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Talking of fabric covered control surfaces, the BoB Memorial flight aircraft have patterns in the fabric. Is that the same for WWII machines? Nice shot! I imagine it would be similar on WWII machines- it looks like that's pinked reinforcing "tape". "Pinked" means that the edges are cut with a diagonal "saw-tooth" pattern (I think you can see it if you squint really hard!). Maybe decals if you wanted to try this, but I'm afraid that even in 1/32 it might make things look far too busy. bob geedubelyer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Nice shot! I imagine it would be similar on WWII machines- it looks like that's pinked reinforcing "tape". "Pinked" means that the edges are cut with a diagonal "saw-tooth" pattern (I think you can see it if you squint really hard!). Maybe decals if you wanted to try this, but I'm afraid that even in 1/32 it might make things look far too busy. bob Yep, my mother used pinking shears from time to time. The green portions of the right elevator do show the pattern nicely. geedubelyer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 it looks like that's pinked reinforcing "tape". "Pinked" means that the edges are cut with a diagonal "saw-tooth" pattern bob Thanks Bob. The edges are indeed "pinked" but that would definitely be a step too far. my mother used pinking shears from time to time. Lol....mine too Kevin. Regarding the surface textures I'd like to attempt to recreate the subtle surface irregularities of the prototype. This would mean overlapping panels and no sunken rivet holes that Revell offer on this incarnation. The previous image shows pimples in the tape over the fabric which is a neat detail. I wonder how one would go about recreating that look? With all of the talk to do with this model I'm sorely tempted to get one and use it to practice techniques. Then, if Tamiya ever deign to favour us with one of their uber models I could put these techniques to work on that kit. I would then use what worked (if anything) and ditch what did n't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Brooks Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) The "proper" early wartime method was to pull out some of the "warp" threads, on each side, then dope the feathery "weft" threads into the underlying fabric, so producing a (sort of) bird's feather effect. Pinking did come in later, but is unlikely for the years we're discussing. The "pimples" are where the thread is knotted to stop it unravelling if it gets cut. Called a "seine" knot it was normally made after every inch (sewing was 8-9 stitches to the inch.) An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar P.S. I've just been reminded that the tape (before fraying) was 2" (51mm) wide, which, in 1/32 = 1/16" or about 1.6mm. Edited July 8, 2014 by Edgar Brooks Bill Cross and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I used aluminium cooking foil and microscale foil adhesive to do some rib tapes on my Swordfish, maybe this approach could be developed by someone? http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=40478&page=3 Tim Uncarina and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar Cute. I have a neighbor that talks like that. Sort of Elmer Fudd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Howie Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 For someone with the kit in hand. Would it be correct to say you can from directly above ie plan view see the exhausts where they leave the cowl? In essence the entire upper cowl outward curve is missing which on the real aircraft blocks that view and the double curve so distinctive of the Spit ie below and above the exhausts is missing? You in fact should only be able to see a portion of each exhaust when viewed from above and certainly not where it appears with the view supposed to be blocked by the upper cowl bulge. Interested to hear from someone and what they see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 I asked Simon and he has denied me permission to post his list here due to his dispute with a particular moderator. After initially saying it was OK to post his email, he has asked members to PM me and I'll pass on your requests. He's happy enough to copy my walkaround photo from LSP and use them for his purposes. Whatever if he doesn't want to give LSP any due credit for the origin of the pictures but then to be a loser about you posting some of his content here. Noticed also that the Spitfire thread had to be closed on Britmodeller...similar reasons. Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Well at least we don't have to deal with him here anymore. DougN 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Was looking at some inflight pics of newly reconstructed Spit I N3200 and the nose looks to be different. But is it really necessary to completely disect this kit? I like the topics about any differences and how they can be corrected. Just asking.Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Brooks Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 For someone with the kit in hand. Would it be correct to say you can from directly above ie plan view see the exhausts where they leave the cowl? In essence the entire upper cowl outward curve is missing which on the real aircraft blocks that view and the double curve so distinctive of the Spit ie below and above the exhausts is missing? You in fact should only be able to see a portion of each exhaust when viewed from above and certainly not where it appears with the view supposed to be blocked by the upper cowl bulge. Interested to hear from someone and what they see. When Peter Cooke was producing his models, he always reckoned that George Cox's drawings (below) were the most accurate. Don't confuse the Griffon cowling with that of the Merlin, since they are completely different. Bill Cross and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akeller Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 The "proper" early wartime method was to pull out some of the "warp" threads, on each side, then dope the feathery "weft" threads into the underlying fabric, so producing a (sort of) bird's feather effect. Pinking did come in later, but is unlikely for the years we're discussing. The "pimples" are where the thread is knotted to stop it unravelling if it gets cut. Called a "seine" knot it was normally made after every inch (sewing was 8-9 stitches to the inch.) An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar P.S. I've just been reminded that the tape (before fraying) was 2" (51mm) wide, which, in 1/32 = 1/16" or about 1.6mm. Edgar - I thought I was the only one who knew things like this. I'm not sure what this says about us! Are George Cox's drawings still available? Thanks for your guidance. Al Keller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Are George Cox's drawings still available? http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/18534/spitfire-mk1-line-drawing-2896 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 The "proper" early wartime method was to pull out some of the "warp" threads, on each side, then dope the feathery "weft" threads into the underlying fabric, so producing a (sort of) bird's feather effect. Pinking did come in later, but is unlikely for the years we're discussing. The "pimples" are where the thread is knotted to stop it unravelling if it gets cut. Called a "seine" knot it was normally made after every inch (sewing was 8-9 stitches to the inch.) An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar P.S. I've just been reminded that the tape (before fraying) was 2" (51mm) wide, which, in 1/32 = 1/16" or about 1.6mm. Edgar - I thought I was the only one who knew things like this. I'm not sure what this says about us! Are George Cox's drawings still available? Thanks for your guidance. Al Keller That make two of us then Al (part of my basic RAF survival equipment fitter training). Cheers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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