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About akeller

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    LSP Junkie

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    NE Ohio
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  1. Thanks for all the comments and ideas!! Does any one have any information about what the INSIDE of the cowling looks like? I should have said the inside of the cowl ring. I've searched all my references, every picture I could find and even the E&M Manual with out much luck. I'd like to at least add detail that can be seen from the front of the airplane. Also, I did find some interesting information on Tailhook Topics. Great site by the way! Check it out.......... Again, thank you everyone! Al Keller
  2. Hello! I'm getting ready to start the Bearcat and wanted to find out if there are problem areas. Most of the threads I've read talk about the: 1. Shape of the nose. 2. The wheel wells 3. The cockpit. Does anyone make replacement wheels/tires for the kit? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! Al Keller
  3. Out2gtcha, Thank you for sharing this build. I too build this kit years ago and loved it. You've inspired me to do it again with a lot of updates. Thanks for the inspiration!! Al Keller
  4. Beauty is very subjective - in the eye of the beholder! The entire Mustang family is beautiful - each in its own way. I'll buy at least two. Al Keller
  5. I did not realize that 21st made anything other than the pre-finished model!! That is what I received yesterday. There have been threads where someone will dis-assemble the 1/18th scale Mustang, refinish it and put it back together. I thought someone might have done that with this model. It doesn't look like the model will come apart easily but I may try that anyway. Out2gtcha - that's good news. I've tried to buy the JR kit on EBay but they always go for crazy money!! Thanks everyone! Al Keller
  6. Hello again. The B model is a favorite of mine and I've read several threads here on LSP on building a more accurate model than is available in a kit at this point. I picked one of the 21st Century "kits" up on EBay thinking that it could be a basis for a more accurate finished model. Has anyone used this as the basis for a nice model? Searched but couldn't find. It doesn't look too bad out of the box but I haven't compared it to scale drawings yet. Thank you, Al Keller
  7. Glen, I think I have an electronic copy of the Erection and Maintenance Manual for the -H if that would help should you decide to go forward with the project. Al Keller
  8. Glen, You may want to talk to the folks over at the P-51 SIG. There is a lot of information on the site and several very knowledgeable folks there. Good luck - that airplane is on my bucket list even if I have to scratch build it!! Al Keller
  9. Thanks for all the feedback. I was able to pick up the mounts for the HVAR and I could use the prop from the old Monogram 1/32nd Mustang - I believe that would work. Still trying to confirm what the cockpit interior would look like and what "updates" would need to be done to make a post war/Korean War vintage plane. If you've got any suggestions, I'd sure appreciate it! Of course, 15 minutes before I finish this "conversion", Tamiya will release the kit with the very markings I've got in mind and that I will have to piece together. What a fantastic hobby!!! Thanks again, Al Keller
  10. I'll have to check this evening but I'm fairly sure that the wings have the HVAR mounting points located but flashed over. MUST have another kit to add to my stash!! Thanks, Al Keller
  11. Hello again! Have there been any rumors about Tamiya releasing an F-51D to round out the offering? Thanks very much! Al Keller
  12. Thank you very much! I'll order this tonight. Al Keller
  13. The "proper" early wartime method was to pull out some of the "warp" threads, on each side, then dope the feathery "weft" threads into the underlying fabric, so producing a (sort of) bird's feather effect. Pinking did come in later, but is unlikely for the years we're discussing. The "pimples" are where the thread is knotted to stop it unravelling if it gets cut. Called a "seine" knot it was normally made after every inch (sewing was 8-9 stitches to the inch.) An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar P.S. I've just been reminded that the tape (before fraying) was 2" (51mm) wide, which, in 1/32 = 1/16" or about 1.6mm. Edgar - I thought I was the only one who knew things like this. I'm not sure what this says about us! Are George Cox's drawings still available? Thanks for your guidance. Al Keller
  14. Wow, I didn't expect this much response! I'm at work so I can't review all the emails in detail, but do want to define my "regardless of price" thought. An example would be a $20 kit vs. $100 kit. If I'm to call either kit "good", I think they should both include (your list may be different than mine): 1. Accurate outline and shape 2. Usable surface finish - ideally, no trenches or need to completely scribe the kit 3. Usable instruction sheet - easy to understand 4. Usable wheel well and cockpit details 5. Usable engine if required/visible I may have missed something in my hurry, but I consider these to be the basics of a good kit regardless of the price. The new Revell Bf-109 series in 1/32nd "might" be a good example of a "good" kit. I would expect to replace some of the kit parts with resin or etched parts if I WANT to make those enhancements. No need for major scratch building or surgery unless you're converting the kit into another version than offered in the kit. On the other end of the scale, look at the 1/32nd F-105 series. You spend $100 for the kit and then have to spend a bunch more money on OOP resin parts just to bring the outline and shape up to a "good" standard. This is, in my estimation, is not a good kit. This modeler I know probably has $400 wrapped up in this kit that I (I mean "he") MUST HAVE!!! My choice.... My expectations are VERY different when I buy a Tamiya kit vs. a Trumpeter kit at the same price point. There is all kind of "grey" in this analysis - very little "Black and White" but I hope we can do something useful with our time spent in discussion. Al Keller
  15. Matty, I've been looking for a way to turn the energy that was spent on threads like the Revell Spitfire Mk II into something constructive for everybody involved in our hobby. Hope something "good" comes from the discussion! You get to keep score! Al Keller
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