akeller

Thanks for all the comments and ideas!! Does any one have any information about what the INSIDE of the cowling looks like? I should have said the inside of the cowl ring. I've searched all my references, every picture I could find and even the E&M Manual with out much luck. I'd like to at least add detail that can be seen from the front of the airplane. Also, I did find some interesting information on Tailhook Topics. Great site by the way! Check it out.......... Again, thank you everyone! Al Keller

Hello! I'm getting ready to start the Bearcat and wanted to find out if there are problem areas. Most of the threads I've read talk about the: 1. Shape of the nose. 2. The wheel wells 3. The cockpit. Does anyone make replacement wheels/tires for the kit? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! Al Keller

Out2gtcha, Thank you for sharing this build. I too build this kit years ago and loved it. You've inspired me to do it again with a lot of updates. Thanks for the inspiration!! Al Keller

Beauty is very subjective - in the eye of the beholder! The entire Mustang family is beautiful - each in its own way. I'll buy at least two. Al Keller

I did not realize that 21st made anything other than the pre-finished model!! That is what I received yesterday. There have been threads where someone will dis-assemble the 1/18th scale Mustang, refinish it and put it back together. I thought someone might have done that with this model. It doesn't look like the model will come apart easily but I may try that anyway. Out2gtcha - that's good news. I've tried to buy the JR kit on EBay but they always go for crazy money!! Thanks everyone! Al Keller

Hello again. The B model is a favorite of mine and I've read several threads here on LSP on building a more accurate model than is available in a kit at this point. I picked one of the 21st Century "kits" up on EBay thinking that it could be a basis for a more accurate finished model. Has anyone used this as the basis for a nice model? Searched but couldn't find. It doesn't look too bad out of the box but I haven't compared it to scale drawings yet. Thank you, Al Keller

Glen, I think I have an electronic copy of the Erection and Maintenance Manual for the -H if that would help should you decide to go forward with the project. Al Keller

Glen, You may want to talk to the folks over at the P-51 SIG. There is a lot of information on the site and several very knowledgeable folks there. Good luck - that airplane is on my bucket list even if I have to scratch build it!! Al Keller

Thanks for all the feedback. I was able to pick up the mounts for the HVAR and I could use the prop from the old Monogram 1/32nd Mustang - I believe that would work. Still trying to confirm what the cockpit interior would look like and what "updates" would need to be done to make a post war/Korean War vintage plane. If you've got any suggestions, I'd sure appreciate it! Of course, 15 minutes before I finish this "conversion", Tamiya will release the kit with the very markings I've got in mind and that I will have to piece together. What a fantastic hobby!!! Thanks again, Al Keller

I'll have to check this evening but I'm fairly sure that the wings have the HVAR mounting points located but flashed over. MUST have another kit to add to my stash!! Thanks, Al Keller

Hello again! Have there been any rumors about Tamiya releasing an F-51D to round out the offering? Thanks very much! Al Keller

Thank you very much! I'll order this tonight. Al Keller

The "proper" early wartime method was to pull out some of the "warp" threads, on each side, then dope the feathery "weft" threads into the underlying fabric, so producing a (sort of) bird's feather effect. Pinking did come in later, but is unlikely for the years we're discussing. The "pimples" are where the thread is knotted to stop it unravelling if it gets cut. Called a "seine" knot it was normally made after every inch (sewing was 8-9 stitches to the inch.) An "aide-memoire" I was given, years ago, regarding cloth and carpet weaves, is "Warp goes vertical, weft goes from weft to right." Edgar P.S. I've just been reminded that the tape (before fraying) was 2" (51mm) wide, which, in 1/32 = 1/16" or about 1.6mm. Edgar - I thought I was the only one who knew things like this. I'm not sure what this says about us! Are George Cox's drawings still available? Thanks for your guidance. Al Keller

Wow, I didn't expect this much response! I'm at work so I can't review all the emails in detail, but do want to define my "regardless of price" thought. An example would be a $20 kit vs. $100 kit. If I'm to call either kit "good", I think they should both include (your list may be different than mine): 1. Accurate outline and shape 2. Usable surface finish - ideally, no trenches or need to completely scribe the kit 3. Usable instruction sheet - easy to understand 4. Usable wheel well and cockpit details 5. Usable engine if required/visible I may have missed something in my hurry, but I consider these to be the basics of a good kit regardless of the price. The new Revell Bf-109 series in 1/32nd "might" be a good example of a "good" kit. I would expect to replace some of the kit parts with resin or etched parts if I WANT to make those enhancements. No need for major scratch building or surgery unless you're converting the kit into another version than offered in the kit. On the other end of the scale, look at the 1/32nd F-105 series. You spend $100 for the kit and then have to spend a bunch more money on OOP resin parts just to bring the outline and shape up to a "good" standard. This is, in my estimation, is not a good kit. This modeler I know probably has $400 wrapped up in this kit that I (I mean "he") MUST HAVE!!! My choice.... My expectations are VERY different when I buy a Tamiya kit vs. a Trumpeter kit at the same price point. There is all kind of "grey" in this analysis - very little "Black and White" but I hope we can do something useful with our time spent in discussion. Al Keller

Matty, I've been looking for a way to turn the energy that was spent on threads like the Revell Spitfire Mk II into something constructive for everybody involved in our hobby. Hope something "good" comes from the discussion! You get to keep score! Al Keller

We're very fortunate to have so many manufacturers releasing so many new kits in our scale/s of choice. I read the reviews of the new kits on this and other forums with great interest. Some of the reviews get off track with non-productive ranting and raving (Revell Spitfire Mk II, Revell He 219, et al) but it's nice to get objective information about the kit/s before we plunk our money down. Am I going to buy 1, 5 or none?? Have we modelers ever decided and shared publicly what constitutes a bad, good or exceptional kit regardless of the price? 1. Outline/shape accuracy? 2. Surface finish? 3. Working features or not? 4. Removable panel/s or not? 5. Cockpit details or the lack there of? 6. Wheel well details or the lack...? 7. Engine detail? 8. Decal quality? 9. Instruction sheet information? 10. And the list goes on.... Some objective criteria to "grade" a kit that we can all understand and value. Maybe: 1. Pass 2. Fail 3. Exceptional With each grade we could have objective recommendations explaining how the modeler could improve the kit to whatever standard they find acceptable from "out of the box" to "over the top". There are some very knowledgeable people in our ranks for sure. This information (if objective and credible) could help the manufacturers decide how to spend their money for the best return on investment. This might help raise the "quality/expectation bar" so that we get more "good" kits. An objective analysis from credible modelers would (I believe) help the modelers, the manufacturers, the after market folks and (maybe) even our "fun" hobby grow and prosper. Food for thought....... My best regards, Al Keller

They said the kit would be out a couple of months ago. Any idea when it will hit the market? Thanks a lot. Al Keller

Thank you everyone! Your suggestions help a lot!! Al Keller

Thank you for the information! That should help a lot! Al Keller

Hello! I'm new to modeling WW I aircraft and have a lot to learn about painting these aircraft. The most challenging may be the streaky green scheme on the Fokker Dr-1wings and fuselage and a few other planes. How in the heck do you get a convincing finish on those models??? Thanks very much for your guidance! Al Keller

Count me in! I'm a sucker for anything "Mustang"- in either format. And, I'm going to scratch build a 1/32nd scale P-51H in the not to distant future. Good luck with this idea! Al Keller

Is this still a hobby? Maybe it has become a platform for a pi--ing contest? Hard to tell sometimes reading threads like this one. I can't remember the last time someone said "This is a nice kit - not perfect but nice". It seems like some folks really like to trash a new model long before it hits the shelves at the Hobby store. If you don't like the kit, just don't buy it. I'm really glad to see a new tool Spitfire Mk I/II. Al Keller

Hello Chuck, Thanks for getting back to me. I found the Windsock Datafile at a shop in the UK and am digging feverishly for other information. If I find anything unique, I'll mention it to you just in case you don't have it. Keep up the good work!! Al

This is great news! I can see several KH kits in my stash ASAP. Al Keller

Chuck, Hello! I'm getting ready to start the same conversion and wondered if you've made in headway since last year. Al Keller