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  2. Maybe just the kit is fugly. A T5 like in Temora museum I’d do but this infinity one sounds like a bear. The newish one by Airfix in the everyman’s scale might be the play here.
  3. Don’t care about the scale, but have to agree. If Kotare coming out with a better kit why bother, unless Borders one is just as good and they do some airfield set up in 1/35 with tower, Nissan huts ambulance and fuel truck. Or maybe a hanger or bomb protected parking bay. Disclaimer: not wishing this into existence wouldn’t get it anyway probably. Though interesting to think about. I think the ship deck diorama is a phenomenal concept. Hope they do well with it.
  4. Sorry to hear this, Michael. Focus on healing and get back to the bench when you can. All the best for a speedy recovery! Kev
  5. Thanks Chris, Indeed that is true. I’ll check out one of the RC plans. Kind regards, Paul
  6. The 1/32 F is actually a G. And the propeller spinner is horribly shaped. I used the kit for spare parts and paint mule.
  7. Today
  8. Good news, new post on FB says Harv is awake and improving enough to be talking on the phone!!
  9. What an adventure! Of course the engine work (and the resin upgrade) is ''always'' worth it - this is one of the most detailed parts in the model, after all. PS: okay, I'm editing ''always'' in commas, as I remember some pretty rudimental improvizations in a few of my models.
  10. Well done Denis, those stars look very good indeed and are far from easy to get right…..but you’ve done it chum!
  11. perhaps this is a stupid idea, but what about putting the paint in the refrigirator (i.e. where you keep your milk and foodstuffs you plan to eat quickly, not the place where you freeze the things)? Perhaps that will slow down the chemical reaction that leads to the passage of shelf-life-time-thingemything?
  12. Remember this? That was posted on Nov 21 of last year - four months ago. The finished engine cowl section - painted and all. There is still some more blue that has to be applied to this model - around the windshield, and the uppermost panels between the windshield and the firewall, which is the aft end of this sub-assembly. You will recall that I, in my impatience, just had to apply a final topcoat to the forward end of this P-51. I couldn't wait to show off the blue-noser blue. Well now it occurs to me that the paint cocktail I ended up with is not going to wait forever for me to complete the forward fuselage of this uber-complex model. It has already been four months since I shot that paint, and it will probably be something like another four months to complete the forward fuselage such that I can skin it in aluminum to match the finished engine cowl section, and paint the rest. I am screwed if the paint decides to dry up; I have no confidence I can match up a new batch to the old batch. To review, this is the combination: Tamiya medium blue XF-18 (49% plus) Vallejo medium blue 70.965 (49% plus) Vallejo white 71.001 (quite a few drops, but quantity unknown) No way would a new batch be perfect. Were it all Tamiya, I would not be stressing as much about the shelf life. But it isn't. I just don't know how long its shelf life is. So far it seems fine after four months. Am accepting comments from the master painters here who are tuning in. So I think I am going to hit the pause on the assembly plan, and try to get the rest of the blue on sooner rather than later. To do that, I have to mate up (dry fit) the engine cowl section to the forward fuselage section in its current state, and skin the forward portion of the forward fuselage section to match the already skinned engine cowl section. I do not trust using the jig to trim the fuselage section aluminum skins. In theory it would work, but in practice, I don't think I will get a great match to the engine cowl. And it needs to be good. In order to do that, I must be able to assemble the two nearly complete sides of the forward fuselage section, and the fully complete windshield surround section, without the benefit of the fuselage jig. I think I know how to do that: 1. 3D print the firewall, with its four posts that match the holes in the forward ends of the four longerons. Just like the forward end of the jig does now. My firewall is already mostly designed in Rhino. It won't take much to finish it and print it. Fit the firewall to the engine cowl and then the forward fuselage can be fit to the firewall, and taped in place. 2. Rhino design and print a mock station 200 frame, just a plate with four posts to match the holes in the aft ends of the four longerons. Again, just like the aft end of the jig does now. This part can be taped to the side panels and will stabilize the aft end of the side panels and keep them in place. 3. Rhino design and print a simple square plate with four posts that match the four wing mounting points at stations 104 L&R, and 146 L&R, on the lower longerons. Again, just like the jig does now. Tape this to the side panels also. 4. Tape the windshield onto the side panels. This should give me an accurate forward fuselage assembly that holds shape acceptably and can be fit onto the engine cowl, complete enough to skin the forward end of it, to perfectly match. Maybe skin just the windshield surround, since the blue doesn't extend down to the side panels. Once the trim is final, mask up for the remainder of the blue, paint it, and problem solved. That is if there is a problem at all. If the shelf life of my paint is alot longer than a half year, then I don't need to do this out-of-sequence work. What do you think?
  13. Hi all, The Halberstadt D.II (built by Hannover), Serial No:810/16 Vzfw. Erich Schutlz, the Royal Jagdstaffel 25, operating from Kanatrlarci, Macedonia in early 1917. As usual a detailed build log in PDF format can be viewed or downloaded from the 'Logs' page on my web site. https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/ The forum build thread is here: Build thread Mike
  14. Hi all, The finished model is now up in the 'Ready for Inspection' page. Thanks for your support and comments throughout this build, Mike
  15. FYI - Heard from Ernie on LSM and Bev on FB that Harv has had a setback. He had gall bladder surgery yesterday, which went fine, but then something went wrong afterward and he coded. They got him back but he had a seizure and is now in a coma as of the last info. Tim
  16. Tomorrow I will touch up the front landing gear, I have screwed it up a little because of me, sometimes my level of stupidity reaches unimaginable levels
  17. Funnily enough Dennis I also have the HGW Wet Transfers for the Hurricane but I agree, their success is very hit and miss, whereas I’m in complete control of the paint stencils. Never too late Tolga……there’s always time……
  18. Looks great Max Very appetizing and inspirational. But it looks like this will cause chaos on my workbench. I have to hurry, I'm late
  19. Hi all, The Macchi M.5, Serial No.7242 as flown by Tenente di Vascello Federico Carlo Martinengo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglia, operating from Saint Andrea Seaplane Station near Venice during 1918. As usual a detailed build log in PDF format can be viewed or downloaded from the 'Logs' page on my web site. Web site The forum build thread is here: Build thread Mike
  20. Thanks Matt and Spyrosjzmichos for your messages, I hope you enjoy the sequel! Today, my red stars are under the wings. Well, not quite red, because they're red and white, as we'll see. The ICM instruction manual (from Ukraine) doesn't show the position of these red stars... Who knows why? So he's going to get the information from somewhere else. Step 1: cut the Oramask 810 masks with the Cameo. I had to do this several times because the masks were too big. Step 2: once cut, place the masks on Frisket (transparent vinyl with low adhesion). Step 3: Place the masks on the wings. This is the largest mask, which defines the outer limit of the star. Of course, I've drawn markers in pencil to ensure that the star branches are parallel to the wing. Step 4: Paint with white MRP paint, undiluted, at low air pressure and as perpendicular to the mask as possible. Step 5: I now need to mask the white paint, and this is really the most difficult part, as there's a thin red border on the outside of these stars. It's about 0.6mm and of course the final beauty of these stars depends on this border. It has to be even on each branch of the star and all the edging has to be identical. Now I have to thank MikeMaben who, some time ago, advised me to brush the model with water + washing-up liquid. That's what I did, and so I was able to move the mask slightly and "slide" it into a good position. And I let it dry for a few minutes. Thanks a lot Mike! Step 6: I paint with the red paint and remove the masks. The result is okay, but not perfect, especially on the star on the right with its red border, which isn't quite perfect, but I'm happy with it. And thanks also to Max, who previously gave me a lot of help and advice on using the Silhouette and cutting the masks. As you can see, it's extremely time-consuming to make, and very difficult to position correctly, but the final look of these stars more than makes up for the investment in time/patience/and other howls.
  21. They look great, stencils are not my favourite thing as if you use decals they always seem to silver, I will have to have a look at the range that they have. HGW Wet Transfers are good but my last experience was a bit hit and miss. Cheers Dennis
  22. Hi all, The finished model is now up in the 'Ready for Inspection' page. Thanks for your support and comments through this build, Mike
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