scvrobeson Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 9 hours ago, Furie said: Is micromesh dry or water-based? Usually better to use it wet, gives smoother results and makes it less likely to leave a scratch in the finish. Matt Furie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 4, 2023 Author Share Posted July 4, 2023 (edited) As I wasn't satisfied with my engine cowl, I tried to soften the RLM 70 spots with micromesh 8000, but it ended up erasing the spots... So I repainted RLM 04 and tried to use the masks I had, but only with the smallest holes: failure... So I've just repainted the RLM 04 and I'll try with pointed Q-tip, we'll see. And if that doesn't work, then I'll redo the spots with the mask as before. For the moment, the engine cowl is yellow, waiting for better days... So, I've just painted the RLM 75 on the wings and horizontal stab. MRP paint with 50% thinner and low air pressure, and before that a coat of micromesh 8000 on all the surfaces to be painted. A first freehand line to outline the RLM 75 and then I paint, lightly covering the whole area. Then I come back to it, insisting panel by panel (thanks to the rivet lines). I took a lot of breaks in my work to see where the BB'ing was, neither too visible nor too faded. The effect of the BB'ing is well present and I can modulate it as I like by playing with the transparency of the RLM 75. You can clearly see all the rivet lines I've added, and believe me, I'm happy with that! Overall, I'm satisfied with my work and it validates my choice of this BB'ing, which takes a long time to set up. But it's worth it. (imho) Denis who (really) takes his time! All these rivet lines didn't exist on the REVELL model, so I made them with my own little hands and a big dose of patience. Edited July 4, 2023 by Furie Isar 30/07, TAG, denders and 14 others 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 4, 2023 Share Posted July 4, 2023 Sorry that Micro-Meshing the camo spots didn't work for you, but I'm sure that you'll find a great way to accomplish it. The camo looks good so far Matt Furie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) The RLM 74: I decided to use soft cardboard masks, cut to the shape of the RLM 74, and stuck double-sided adhesive tape to the underside of each one. The tape is about 1mm thick, allowing me to paint a 74/75 boundary that's just the right amount of blur. I wouldn't have been able to draw these lines with the airbrush, freehand, as it's a fairly straight pattern. Next step, and not the least, is to use MONTEX masks to paint the B/W underwing and upperwing crosses... NB: the first 3 photos, taken vertically, give misleading reflections due to the slightly too strong lighting, which I'm unable to reduce. Edited July 5, 2023 by Furie patricksparks, Landrotten Highlander, tucohoward and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) Well, after doing BB'ing for the first time, I've also just tried a new technique for the first time: mask fitting and painting. I have to admit that after reading about Kev's P51 Hasegawa's setbacks with the insignia on and under the wings, I wasn't too reassured. But as they say: fear makes you a coward! I watched some videos on YT and it seems that the secret to positioning the masks correctly is to put them on transparent transfer film. So I ordered a roll of clear matte Frisket. ✔ Positioning the Frisket on the mask set. ✔ With small pliers gently peel the Frisket from the mask, being careful to "grab" only the large circumference of the white cross. ✔ Position the mask with the help of the Frisket (the Frisket allows you to keep the shape of the cross mask and also to reposition several times in a row if you've made a mistake). ✔ Remove the Frisket, leaving only the mask on the wing : ✔ Paint with undiluted white paint, low air pressure and at right angles to the mask : ✔ Put the Frisket back on the mask set, gently remove the Frisket, "taking" at the same time only the 4 corners of the cross that will mask the white paint. ✔ Position the Frisket and the 4 corners on the cross mask already in place, remove the Frisket, taking care that all 4 masks remain in place. ✔ Paint the black : ✔ Remove the masks, admire the result, breathe a long sigh of relief and go for a beer with a sense of accomplishment! ✔ After drinking the beer, ask yourself if you've made a mistake on the position of the cross and its size! Check feverishly if you've chosen the right mask set for the size and if the position is correct...and if the 2 answers are positive, open a second beer! Edited July 5, 2023 by Furie TAG, Fanes, MikeMaben and 10 others 11 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Ha Ha, Denis....that's an excellent finish and a big welcome the world of paint maskers, it's the way to go. There are bigger challenges, like a swastika with narrow white outlines, but you've made a very good start with your Balkenkreuz. Furie and daHeld 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Paint looks good and congrats on your first paint mask! Looks just almost perfect. Another step that you might want to add right before you paint the black is to seal the joints between the four corner pieces and the outline mask to prevent paint leakage. Depending on the shape, you can use either tape or liquid mask. daHeld and Furie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) Well, thank you both for your messages, they make me very happy. Indeed Thunnus, when I do the upper wings and fuselage I'll take a little more time to "fill in" the few imperfections in the fit of these masks. I'm going to touch up the paint on these 2 lower crosses to get them just right. I have to admit that I was very stressed at the idea of using masks, especially when I see that others with much more experience have had problems. But I'm not claiming victory just yet, because I've got the << + - to mask and paint (and the swastika, yes Max, I know...)... And I've just realized that the yellow under the wings goes much further than what I've done. It doesn't stop at the wing tip, but is also painted on an entire panel and part of the aileron : Edited July 5, 2023 by Furie LSP_Kevin, Antonio Argudo, Greg W and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Excellent work, Denis! Kev Furie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 looking really good now Furie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonio Argudo Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 looking great Fury, taking a closer look at the yellow wing tips, seems that they go further into the ailerons and slats area, keep the good, cheers Gazzas, Furie and daHeld 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 6, 2023 Author Share Posted July 6, 2023 Exactly Antonio, that's what I saw and wrote: Quote It doesn't stop at the wing tip, but is also painted on an entire panel and part of the aileron That's why I posted the photo of the plane that illustrates my oversight. What a huge mistake, and I completely missed it except yesterday when after painting the cross under the wing I realized something was wrong with that yellow. Senior moment! mozart, daHeld and Antonio Argudo 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonio Argudo Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 true, sorry I did not read your statement! keep the good, cheers Furie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furie Posted July 6, 2023 Author Share Posted July 6, 2023 @Antonio Argudo : Thanks Antonio, I'd rather the 2 of us see this mistake now than at the end of this wip! Come on, a third beer! Today it's the turn of the upper crosses. This morning I was very confident about fitting the masks, because yesterday everything went so well. But it didn't! I don't know why, but I sweated blood putting on the 1st mask, and even more so putting on the 4 corner masks. Maybe it's because they're so small... It must have taken me about 1 hour to set up the damn mask set! As for the rest, I followed @Thunnus advice by placing a few protectors at the end of the branches of the crosses, so I hardly had to make any alterations. The mask "professionals" must be laughing when they read this, but I can assure you that it's far from easy for a young Padawan beginner like me! So for the moment, all's well, and I hope it stays that way! This technique of using masks to replace decals is what I call "a risky bet", because if you make a mistake (placement, size, color, paint dilution, misalignment with rivet lines), then everything's ruined and you have to start all over again. Alain Gadbois, daHeld, mozart and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAG Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 (edited) Dude, for a self-proclaimed 'noob' you are kicking all sorts of derrière right now, Denis. Your results with the markings are incredible considering it's your first time using masks, I'd say you're a natural! Edited July 6, 2023 by TAG Furie and daHeld 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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