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1/32 Dragon Messerschmitt Bf110 C from Wingtech D\E


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This one has been in the cupboard for a while.

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Continuing my BOB build theme, I want to build it as a C variant. I like the look of this one flown by Oberslt Huth of ZG 26.

The camo scheme is quite interesting and will require some further research, but I do like the look of this one below.

 

 

 

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I have this AM goodness 

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What I am not sure on is the differences between the Kit D version and the C version, in particular the IP and cockpit.

 

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As far as the kit parts go, I believe that all of the kits use the same plastic IP and cockpit parts, except I think the E-2/Trop has a different rear seat.

 

You can see the instructions for the C kit below.  It’s the Revell boxing, but they are a bit better than the Dragon instructions, and correct some of the errors in the latter.

 

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/8/2/7/1181827-65-instructions.pdf

 

 

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Nice to seen another 110 WIP, the base kit is the same for all boxings I believe with just extra sprues added tailored to the particular version. If you can get hold of the Revell instructions it will make life easier. Also beware if the brittle and difficult clear parts as well!

 

Regards. Andy 

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Nice! Good to see another C being built!!


Your colour plate of looks like 3U+AA  a C-4 -

I see you've got decals/masks for either a C-2 or C-4 variant - and basically the major difference between a C-2 and C-4 was that the ventral MG-FF cannon (C-2) were replaced with MG-FF/M cannon. The C-2 would probably have a Hulsenwanne installed (spent cartridge fairing below the fuselage to catch brass)

So, off the top of my head, the visible differences between the kit D and any of those C's (notwithstanding any aircraft specific differences you find) you'll be building are -

1. Fill in the fuselage aerial location point on the port side. C-2/4's were usually upgraded to the Fug X radios, which usually did away with the dual aerial leads. But check references....but usually starboard lead only.
2. Fill in the square fresh air ventilation hatch located starboard fuselage just behind the Bordfunker position. Only found on E's onwards.
3. Make sure you use the smaller T shaped pitot tube. E's onwards had the larger pitot tube
4. Check if your specific aircraft had the armoured windscreen.
5. The upper trim tab adjustment arms for the horizontal stab were not present on the C's or D's. Don't install them, and fill in the location points on the stab - you'll have to fill and rescribe those panel lines as well.
6. Your C-4 will probably have the faired-over Bordfunker gun position (dragon give you 3 options). Again, check references, but either the solid insert or the insert with the fairing present should be good. The C-2 would probably have the opening in the insert for the MG to sit in.
7. The MLG differs between variants with strengthening being applied from D's onwards I believe. But don't worry too much about that, the kit MLG as-is, are just fine.
8. Your C-2 would have most likely had an RLM02 interior, and your C-4 might have had a RLM66 cockpit (or RLM66/02 mix)

I would much prefer to use a well-dressed kit IP over the Eduard offering. The Eduard stuff looks "flat" IMO.

Lovely kit...just don't pay much attention the the instructions....;)
 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Lain,

Thanks for the detailed list of differences. From the Montex images it looks like I am building a C4.

 

Edited by CraigC
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  • 2 months later...

A little progress to date.

First attempt at painting the wheels a colour other than black. They are not really working out. I am using acrylics which is new to me. I am not sure how to proceed.

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I was attempting to emulate these, painting at another level.

 

3-58.jpg

 

 

Some progress in the cockpit. My first real crack at PE. Some of the parts are so tiny.

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52237723850_a25a5bb196_c_d.jpg

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14 hours ago, CraigC said:

A little progress to date.

First attempt at painting the wheels a colour other than black. They are not really working out. I am using acrylics which is new to me. I am not sure how to proceed.

52237723920_a753619a0e_c_d.jpg

 

 

 

I was attempting to emulate these, painting at another level.

 

3-58.jpg

 

 

Some progress in the cockpit. My first real crack at PE. Some of the parts are so tiny.

52237723885_0bcee4c78c_c_d.jpg

 

52237723850_a25a5bb196_c_d.jpg


Craig did you paint the buff 1st or 2nd? For reference, I try to do the black 1st then work the buff in around the areas i want like i would if preshading a panel and then spraying the center of the panel and letting the overspray lightly cover the area near the panel line to create shadows.
Acrylics are hard to layer on without completely covering the base coat. They need thinned alot and some brands are better than others at that. The Vallejo i spray hates to be thinned and cover lightly without alot of effort as it clogs easier when only pulling on the airbrush trigger lighty to try for a thin coat. I’ve had better luck using chalks for the light sandy color on tires.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I applied the buff over the flat black.

yes I am struggling to get a thin wet coat with the acrylics.

Any way a little progress on the cockpit.

lots of fiddly PE. It's the first time I have given it  a serious try. I enjoyed folding the boxes and rack panels. the tiny piece. not so much fun.

I am pretty happy with the throttle controls and the seatbelts are done too.

 

 

 

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Edited by CraigC
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  • 3 weeks later...

Assembling and painting the cockpit is my favourite part of working on a model. I have tried some new techniques her. I exaggerated the finishes hopefully enough to convey they intention through the darkness when buttoned up in the fuselage.

The vertigo jig was great when attaching the seatbelts.

After the PCM this kit just falls together.

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