Jump to content

IainM

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    288
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by IainM

  1. @MikeMaben Thanks for the heads-up - my Barracuda wheels have just arrived from Aus! As with all of Roy's goodies, they are way better than that which came in the kit!
  2. Finally got a few days of glorious weather, it was time to get back to starting the paint-job on the Hurri! Using some different mottling/stain masks I had lying around, put down some shades of greys and browns over the silver base (with some chipping fluid sprayed on first) Staying away from pure blacks, but using base tones of either AK Interactive NATO Black, or Blue Black, mixed with some drops of Royal Blue, or IJN Green, Buff, etc - just to vary the tones of the coats, which were applied very thinly. I then proceeded to lightly chip the frame, and lightly sanded the raised detail to bring out the silver layer below. Here you can see that underlying tonality showing through the topcoat, and the result of the light sanding of the raised detail. The different tones, etc, are much more visible with the naked eye... Port side zoomed in a bit - the tones are more evident in this shot - further weathering plus the addition (in contrast) of the national insignia will tone things down a little.
  3. Thanks for that link! What great images, and those restorers have done that bird proud! What a fine example!
  4. Yep, I've seen those....but I balk at the postage costs here to NZ, especially when it's just for 2 engines. But perhaps I should just bite the bullet and cry later
  5. My order of the early Beau interior has just been delivered to my door......and.....good grief, it's absolutely lovely!!! The detail is phenomenal, even down to the minute wiring on the floor boxes. I'm once again seriously impressed!! Well done Steve @Model_Monkey Packaging was spot-on, no damage whatsoever coming half-way across the world! Now we just need those early dihedral tailplanes again, plus Hercules engines, plus wheel wells My wish-list would also include an early-style radar nose for the Tamiya Mozzie (I'm sure you don't have enough on your plate yet ), aaaaand ( I know we've messaged about it before) some AI style bow-and arrow antenna - but just the horizontal posts - the blades would be easy enough to SB - and then there wouldn't be any worry about damage to them...food for thought. Well done again, that set is superlative work!!! Iain
  6. That is brilliant!! I'm pretty sure those would sell like hot cakes!
  7. Thanks Kev!! @Kagemusha Thanks, and thanks for that link! I'll def take a look at it!!!
  8. More progress made on the 109, luckily there was quite a bit of building to be done, as anything painting related (like getting the Hurricane painted) is just not on the cards at the moment. WAAAAY to wet and cold (12°C and RH of 68% in the garage - once the wet cars are parked, it just get worse). Will have to wait for a bit of sunshine to dry things out a bit... I've managed to get the major construction work out of the way - wings, flaps, ailerons, horizontal stabs and elevators, putty where needed, canopies are masked. All ready for primer and paint. Quite a bit of filler (Milliput) has been used to try and get a smoother transition between the engine cowling and gun deck cover, plus some rod to fill the gap between those parts (I think this was designed to be a cowl-off kit) The prop assembly has been modded to accept magnets. Both the cannon covers and the slats needed some extra styrene fitted to make them fit. The AM rudder has been drilled and pinned (removable), fitted with the linkage yoke that came with the kit for it's rudder Underside needs some black in the radiator wells before I attach them and mask off for painting. Dragon supplies etched brass linkages for the ailerons and flaps (moveable perhaps)- they are fiddly, and although looking the part, I think that the whole system would be way to weak to support the trailing bits. There are only two attachment points for both the flaps and ailerons - no locating pins at either the wing edge (aileron), or the inner face of the flaps where they butt onto the fuselage. So mine are glued in place! First time I've seen or used those flexible inserts Dragon gave for the wheel wells. I did some reading up on them when I saw them - lot of complaints about being brittle and not usable, but happy to report mine were fine, responded to Mr Hobby S glue VERY well, and worked a treat!
  9. Wow, that aux oil tank looks brilliant Andy! That's a real treat to see! All the best with the glazing, my eyes were squiff after doing mine!
  10. Outstanding work! All your work is really paying off, love it!
  11. Thanks Nick! So I've formed it over the outside of the cover, therefore it is slightly bigger than the final size it'll have to be on the inside. My hope is that once I press-fit it the to inside of the cover, it'll form to the interior shape......hopefully! The PE part is really thin, so I'm hoping to get away with that, but that thinness also comes with downfalls..easy to mangle... Otherwise I might (not really sure if I want to though) is use white glue in some strategic places to hold it there. Not sure about that though.... Iain
  12. So I did make a start on the wings last night, but then decided I wanted to get the AML PeilG IV set sorted out first. So cut out the transparent vacform dome, then using a piece of elastic sanding film wrapped around the fuselage, sanded the dome (filled with Blu-Tack to hold the shape) down so it fitted the contours of the underside perfectly! I then formed the PE bits over the outside of the dome, so when it's time to fit it, it'll press-form nicely to the inside of the cover. The electronic bit has had a pin fitted to it, corresponding hole drilled on the underside. Although the dome fitted well on the underside, I was earlier in this thread, made aware that there was a flange on the real deal used to affix the dome. So I marked out the edge of the dome on the underside with pencil, then used a Tamiya awl/needle type thing to carve/scribe out the outline. That was then filled in with a piece of styrene strip to simulate the flange After a bit of clean-up and reducing the height of the strip a tad.....the dome is a nice press fit into the flange. Slightly off-centre, but not enough to cry about it! Might reduce the height of the styrene flange a little more, but quite happy with the result!
  13. Excellent! I have one of these in my stash, looking forward to see you putting yours together!
  14. This kit has been on my radar for ages...you're doing an excellent job! I like!!
  15. She looks a treat Andy! Very well done!!!! One less on the SOD!
  16. Thanks Andy! Plus 30°C, I wish! After a decade and a bit in the ME, this cold and wet in NZ goes straight into my bones....but yes, we had a/c in the desert.... Seems like same problems, opposite sides of the coin....
  17. Some more work done on the E-4. It's been too wet to do any large volume painting on the Hurri I've got going as well, so I've had some good time for the 109. Below is the kit panel with the detail mostly sanded off and Eduard color PE faces added, plus a bit of detail painting, etc A lot of detail on the gun deck has been cut and sanded off already, there was more that came off. The Dragon kit is really good in terms of detail, etc, but IMO it wasn't designed to be built with the cowls and covers on. Even with thinning down all the covers, there were still bits of the guns, ammo feeds, etc that needed to be removed/sanded to get the covers on. HGW belts. Easier to do the more you do them. Nicely moulded kit detail. You can see where I've cut the front portions of the barrels off to make way for the Master brass barrels, to be fitted at the end of the build. The canvas cover detail just forward of the IP has had to be sanded right off, and the top of the ammo bins have been lowered slightly in order that the gundeck/IP had enough clearance below the gundeck cover. Port view of the cockpit All buttoned up, and as is the case, not much to see once done. Looks busy enough. The gap on top of the IP will be concealed by the front canopy. Dragon had moulded the windscreen portion along a panel line, so that is a sensible win! Very little remains of all the lovely engine detail below those cowls. Engine support bearers, headers, pipes, etc etc are gone, in order to close the engine cowls up. Plently of sanding, testing, sanding, etc. I'm happy with the result in the end. The area between the engine cowls and the gundeck cover had a gap, but I used some white round styrene rod to fill it and simulate the rubber seal. I know the G's had those seals, not too sure if the E's had them, but that's what it is now.... Last image is with the canopies just sitting in place. I need to sand off the slightest bit off the bottom of the windscreen portion (and subsequently the rest as well) in order to get a flush join between the windscreen and gundeck cover - looks like less than 1/2mm... Wings next.....
  18. Before the last really couple of weeks of cold, rainy, high humidity days hit NZ I managed to do some panel line pre-shading on the Hurri, followed by a thin layer of silver (for chipping later). This is how she stands at the moment - I'm going to hold off a bit on any further painting until I have a day of not having to sponge the condensation off the window in the garage!
  19. Thanks everyone for the kind comments! Much appreciated! I think I will indeed source myself a set of Roy's wheels for the kit! Thanks @MikeMaben for the heads-up!
  20. Made some progress..... Got the first primer coat down, some touch-ups to do, but generally happy with the result. Not as much as I thought I'd have to do. Have to rescribe some detail now and restore some rivet detail where the joins are, but at least things are getting along. @Kagemusha you'll be happy to see those vents below the cockpit are gone! She's not a small bird at all......quite a bit larger than the 109 I'm building. I was quite surprised! Quite a decent set of resin tyres supplied with the kit! I think instead of my usual black-basing, I'll start by using this primer as the base and build up effects on it. That should give some nice tonal/distressing/fading effects when I put on the black scheme
×
×
  • Create New...