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Question for all the master modelers.   Any thoughts on how to weather decals.  Specifically see below:

 

ojQBerG.jpg

 

The "USAF" marking and the aircraft number are both heavily worn & scratched.    I think I can replicate some of the scratches using a silver artist's pencil but I'm curious what your thoughts are on how to replicate the fading and peeling.    One of my pet peeves is looking at pictures of exquisitely weathered models with immaculate decals all over them.   

 

BTW, this is another great reference showing how nasty looking these hardworking birds got over there.  

Edited by John1

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More work done on the sidewalls.   First off, I added the throttle handle from the Barracuda set.  The throttle handle provided range information to the K-14 gunsight, via it's twist-able handgrip.   As a side note - The F-51D used the K-14 "Acemaker" gyro gunsight.  Introduced at the end of WW2, it was a pretty slick device.   It automatically computed the lead required for challenging off-angle deflection shots.  All the pilot had to do was to use a the roller grip on the throttle to reduce or enlarge the circular reticule on the gunsight to just fit the wingspan of the enemy aircraft.   The gunsight would then automatically compute the required lead and all the pilot had to do was keep the reticule centered over the bad guy and pull the trigger. No more having to guesstimate how much lead to pull.  Not too shabby consider this was in the pre-computer days!   For those interested, here's a flight sim video that shows the K-14 in action.

 

 

Anyway, getting back to the model, Barracuda provides a very nice K-14 throttle grip which I added to the sidewall quadrant.   Last bits to add to the throttle will be the cables that connect it to the K-14 sight and some linkages. 

 

Anyway, back to the sidewall weathering.  Using a well sharpend silver artists pencil (another new item I just started to use, it's great for replicating fine scratches),  I added some scrapes and scratches to the sidewalls.  Also scratched up some of the placards, as shown in the original pics (thanks for the tip USMCHerc!).   

 

Next step was to hit the sidewalls with tan pastels to replicate the Korean dust that got into every part of the cockpit.   The pastels do a good job of toning down the last of the shiny placards and cockpit fittings. 

 

IMG_0588

 

IMG_0587

Pretty much done with these bits.   Next step is to finish the IP and then start working on the stuff behind the pilot's seat. 

 

Thanks for looking! 

 

 

Edited by John1

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On to the the IP.   I'm really happy with the way the instruments came out.  Much better than if I followed the Tamiya instructions.  I added the last of the film dials, modified the kit clear plastic part and glued it in place to secure everything.   Then I added the prominent red fuel tank selector switch at the bottom of the panel (this was a Barracuda part), picked out some more switches and knobs in various colors and pretty much have called the IP complete.   I then moved onto the rudder pedals.   The kit parts are ok but Barracuda provides amazing PE bits that you burnish in place over the Tamiya rudder pedals.   They faithfully replicate the NAA logo that was present on each of the pedals on the real thing.  No idea how Barracuda can do PE this detailed!

 

I did the IG/hairspray/black thing and then drybrushed with some silver, added pastel for the dust effect and think this bit is now done!   Sorry for the horrible pictures but it looks pretty good in real life, trust me!

IMG_0593

 

IMG_0597

 

IMG_0598

In looking at the pics, I think I need to hit the IP with some brown pastel to tone down the placards at the base of the panel.  They just look clean for the rest of the cockpit.   I'll add it to the list....

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On to other areas.  Still have a few minor bits to add to the cockpit but I'll get to them later.  Next up are the radios behind the cockpit.   First off - a really fun tutorial on Mustang radios!

 

As with the cockpit itself, the area aft of the cockpit evolved quite a bit over time.   Originally, the first D-model Mustangs had nothing more than a big, bulky SCR-522 radio.  Aft of this radio was the aircraft's battery.    Here's a good illustration of the early layout:

FSX P-51D SCR-522 Radio and Rear Battery Installation (WWII Standard)

 

Late in WW2, the USAAF added the SCR-695 IFF set.  This was the first IFF equipment installed in a fighter-sized aircraft.  This configuration carried over into Korea.  

FSX P-51D SCR-522 and SCR-695 Radio Installation (Very Late WWII and Post-WWII)

To make way for the IFF set, the battery was relocated into the engine compartment.   Sharp-eyed observers will note this configuration by the presence of a small battery cooling scoop on the port fuselage, slightly above and ahead of the wing root leading edge.    Tamiya provides parts for both of these configurations (and yes, they have the cooling scoop included).  The aircraft I'm modeling (Little Beast) appears to be in this configuration.  However, since many WW2-stock Mustangs had their radios upgraded in-theater, I'm going with the addition of a BC-453 receiver unit which was mounted above the original SCR-522.  I'm going to have to scratchbuild this radio and it's mount.  We'll see how it goes.  If it turns out poorly, I'll keep Little Beast in her earlier configuration.   

 

Here's what the BC-453 installation looked like:

FSX P-51D/F-51D BC-453-B, SCR-522, and SCR-695 Radio Installation (Post-WWII)

 

Finally, late in the Korean War, the Mustang's last radio upgrade, using the ARC-3 system was introduced.  This replaced the SCR-522 completely.  

FSX P-51D/F-51D ARC-3 and SCR-695 Radio Installation (Post-WWII)

Sure would be nice if someone would offer all these radio sets in resin but I'm not going to hold my breath.   Maybe if Tamiya ever releases an F-51D (and the way the kit is laid out, it appears that at one point, they intended to), Big T will take care of this issue.    As my luck goes, they will announce their brand new F-51D on the same day I complete my build. 

 

Anyway, that's it for my tutorial.  Pretty exciting stuff, right?  Hope you guys all enjoyed it!   i'll be back with a quick modeling update a bit later.

 

 

 

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On 9/7/2019 at 9:14 AM, John1 said:

  Any thoughts on how to weather decals.  Specifically see below:

 

I've attached a small chunk of fine sandpaper to the end of a stick (whatever's handy)

which allows you to hit the decal in smaller areas. I would do that first and the scratches after.

Experiment on something first , as always.

 

 

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As mentioned previously, I've got the Barracuda resin upgrade set, which provides very nicely detailed SCR-522 radio and battery.  Alas the battery isn't needed since I've got the Tamiya IFF set in it's place.  If I decide to show the engined, I'll probably use the Barracuda battery, if not, I'll toss it into the spares box.    Here's a couple of pics to show how it's going to look with both units dry fitted into place.  Still need to add additional wiring to both the radio and IFF set.   After that, I'll be taking a crack at scratchbuilding the additional radio gear.    

IMG_0600

 

IMG_0599

 

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Still looking sharp John. The interior is progressing nicely on this build. And thanks for including the details on the different upgrades that were performed to the -51, it's good learning. 

 

(Same Brett M from ARC, figured I'm hunting LSP for Corsair info, may as well finally join...after browsing for years!)

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1 minute ago, Brett M said:

Still looking sharp John. The interior is progressing nicely on this build. And thanks for including the details on the different upgrades that were performed to the -51, it's good learning. 

 

(Same Brett M from ARC, figured I'm hunting LSP for Corsair info, may as well finally join...after browsing for years!)

 

Welcome aboard, Brett!

 

:post1:

 

Kev

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11 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Welcome aboard, Brett!

 

:post1:

 

Kev

 

11 hours ago, MikeMaben said:

Hey Brett   :hi:

 

 

Thanks! Seeing builds like John's and the other quality work done here definitely is inspiring. 

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18 hours ago, Brett M said:

(Same Brett M from ARC, figured I'm hunting LSP for Corsair info, may as well finally join...after browsing for years!)

 

 

Welcome to LSP Brett!

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I usually use finer grades of sandpaper and lightly go over a decal (don't seal them!  just wait until they've dried for a few days for best results), once its been faded, you can seal them and then dry brush them, oil washes tend to help with a 'staining' effect.  Someone else remarked that testing it on a scrap piece is also a good idea, especially if using new materials or you're still perfecting your technique.

 

Dan

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