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dsahling1

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dsahling1 last won the day on February 14 2017

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  1. So I’ve been toying with the idea of doing a 1/32 Su-37 Terminator, and I know the Radome is a little bigger and has a slightly different shape than a regular Su-27, I was wondering if anyone has experience with 3D printing if they may be able to assist me with such a request? I would of course be willing to provide compensation please let me know Dan
  2. Really really nice looking P-51 Mustang you've done there, the weathering is just perfect and nicely detailed, your should be proud of a job well done.
  3. I recently finished a backdated Tamiya 1/32 F-14A to a Block 70, VF-1 “Wolfpack” and it took about 10 months to finish, so I know what you mean it takes a lot of work but the Tamiya kit I think has the best “shape.” I ended up rescribing all the panel lines and had to carefully find and check references for them, scratch built the 7-vent gun panel, scratch built the intake bypass ducts (next time the ramps go down to hide it), had to modify the wing sweep device to make them fit and still move, redid the canopy with a combination of kit, resin, photoetch, and scratch built parts, cut off the tail widened the fuselage, and scratch built the “boat tail” of the early blocks, used a whole bunch of resin items like a cockpit, exhausts, resin missiles, added detail to the phoenix’s pylons and zactoman front phoenix pallets, had custom vinyl masks made for the wolf head and stripes on the fuselage and vertical stabilizers, stars and bars, and some various lettering, and other various upgrades like having to heavily modify the air brake, detailing the landing gear, etc. I like to think it came out really quite good (gotta upload the photos). But man was it a lot of work, What I think would be really cool is if Tamiya updated/scaled up the 1/32 F-14 to look like the current 1/48 I’ve heard so much about. The next time it’ll be a Tamiya F-14D from the last catapault shot “112” from VF-31 from 2006 updated as I won’t have to mess with the gun vent, intake bypass ducts, canopy closed, and tail left as is.
  4. Yes, I'm so sorry I didn't reply sooner, life sometimes gets a little hectic, I did receive them, as things worked out I was able to finish the 1/32 F-14A Tomcat from VF-1 however, I didn't end up using the decals, I ended up contacting DN Models that does paint masks and they end up scaling up a set of VF-1 and I finished it a couple weeks ago. With that said, I would like to return the decals to you if that'd be alright?
  5. What about a 1/32 F-16B/MLU? with the 'Blue Splinter' scheme, there's lots of NSI (normal size intake), P&W exhausts. KASL hobby just released the "older" wing tip launch rail (they're more gracile compared to the new/bigger/thicker ones on todays vipers), they even make the light weight landing gear and gear bay doors and such, KASL and a few other aftermarket places like 'Isracast' do make the older style vertical stabilizers or at least parts to modify them, you can use some academy parts from their F-16I kit to backdate/modify for the cockpit, specifically the rear cockpit version, there's also a resin 1/32 F-16A cockpit (although I can't remember the manufacturer)?
  6. Nicely done Chuck! Those DN masks are fantastic I just finished a build I spent the past 1+ year on and there masks really "made" the build....just gotta get some photos of it... So any thoughts for your next project? I assume it may be a jet? Anyhow, congrats on a job well done, the weathering is just right.
  7. I read Dan Hampton's book, 'Viper Pilot' and I had some questions about a load out for an upcoming 1/32 F-16CJ project I'm contemplating. Did the F-16CJ from the 2nd Iraq War ever carry a SEAD load out of 2 CBU-103 on the slant on one wing, and then 2 AGM-65 on the slant on the other wing, centerline jamming pod, 3 AIM-120, 1 AIM-9, 2 drop tanks or something similar? Thanks Dan
  8. I just went to apply the phoenix 1/32 f-14a tomcat vf-1 decals and they're terrible and broke up with just applying them. I know they're out of print so I didn't know if it was a bad set, too old? Or what? So I can try to avoid such a problem in the future are Phoenix Decals known to be junk or was it just bad luck? Thanks Dan
  9. Does anyone know if there are any decals in 1/32 for the F-14 external drop tank attachments/pylons available? Not the actual fuel tanks but I’m working on a really nice 1/32 F-14A from VF-1 backdated to the original first cruise version and some of the reference photos I have show some stencils on the fuel tank pylons and I was wondering if anyone made them? thanks Dan
  10. So for the very first blocks of F-14A Tomcats, i.e. the ones from VF-1 MODEX 100, circa 1975-76, that has the "boat tail," "7 Panel Gun Vent," and nose without the pitot tube on the radome I was wondering if they had those 4 "stiffener" plates in the middle of the top of the fuselage towards the end of the "spine" that are present on some F-14s (I know they're present at least on most if not all F-14Ds) or if this was a later modification for later blocks. Thanks for your help! Dan
  11. So I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has tried to fit the little ‘box’ with the hydraulic actuator for the variable inlet ramps that sit below the bypass vent from the zactoman 1/32 f-14 intake set to the Tamiya 1/32 F-14? I know part of the gears on the tamiya wing sweep mechanism will need to be cut but since they’re screwed into place it shouldn’t effect the wing sweep much. I know I can also probably scratch build it but thought this might save me a little time and effort to adapt them rather than scratch build it. I know it’s a small detail but I’m depicting my plane parked and the photos I’ve seen show the front ramp tucked up for the original VF-1 planes and the rear ramp lowered so you can see the mechanism better and from the right angle it’s a cool little detail to jazz it up a little, and it hides the upper seam on the intake :-). I’m using the Tamiya intakes which I modified a little, so just wanted to be clear it’s only for the zactoman ‘actuator box.’ thanks everyone Dan
  12. Apologies if you had previously mentioned which gloss and flat coats you had used. But I use mostly acrylic paints, either Mr Hobby or Tamiya most of the time and then use Tamiya X-22 for the gloss coat (and then to seal the decals again) and Vallejo acrylic Matt Varnish with vallejo acrylic thinner and I haven't had silvering problems with the decals. I'm sure other people here might have some good ideas on how to fix it, but would spraying some gloss coat over the decals get rid of the silvering and then use a different flat coat? Sorry it didn't turn out how you were hoping. I once ruined a big decal on the tail of a 1/32 F-15 with Walters solvaset that literally melted it off.
  13. Does anyone know if there is a very early model F-14A gun vent (the one with 7 vents) as well as the early model beaver tail? I saw phasehanger resin has a beautiful one in 1/48th, any chance of scaling it up to 1/32 for the Tamiya kit? or has there ever been an early model beaver tail (its mostly rectangular). I'm planning on starting a 1/32 F-14A with those beautiful VF-1 markings that I've wanted to do for years and wanted to see. Thanks Dan
  14. Apologies if this was covered or mentioned already. One idea in regard to the clear coat prior to the decals, is something similar to what I will do when sealing decals if I'm trying to avoid a thicker clear coat filling in panel lines and detail all over is I will only spray the clear coat over the general decal area (thereby keeping most of the clear coat thinner and will take to washes easier). I say 'general area' to prevent a small 'step' from forming over the decals. To apply to your model, what Im trying to say is after you've laid down the alclad, very carefully and slowly build up a clear coat only over the areas where the decals will be applied, a 'feathered edge' will help 'blend' it in to the overall alclad very subtly. It certainly won't be perfect, but if viewed from a little distance away you hopefully will keep that wonderful 'gleam'/'shine' from the alclad but won't have any silvering of the decals. And obviously same technique with sealing the decals. Also, I know you like to alternate jet/prop with each subsequent build, if you haven't decided already I would highly suggest considering Tamiya's 1/32 Mosquito Mk. VI, the engineering and fit is without comparison, a real joy to build and it turns into a beautiful plane. Keep up the good work, also, I'm going to be starting work on a 1/32 F-14A, I was curious what you used for panel line references on the upper fuselage for yours (I know it was a B and D), but I imagine the panel lines are mostly the same, with possibly the exception of the beaver tail region.
  15. Would spraying some type of clear gloss coat over the problem decals and let it dry/cure for a couple days, and then spray the dull coat again (or whichever type of finish you use last ) help with the silvering maybe? Dan
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