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dsahling1 last won the day on February 14 2017

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About dsahling1

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  1. I'll have to give that a shot, if I recall doesn't he just use the Tamiya panel line accent wash to highlight the rivets/panels/details? I actually ended up getting all of the rivets on just how I was hoping, sometimes the curved surfaces cause the rivet wheel tool to "slip" and it wasn't until the very end on the Zactoman nose, with the last rivet pass to go when it got away from me and luckily while the line was crooked it was only about an inch and I was able to fix it with CA glue, and is now straight but that was dodgy for a while and involved a lot of swearing.
  2. Just wanted to provide some updates on the progress of the project. I finished pretty much most of the basic riveting (first pass) for both of the current planes (the 3rd that already has paint on it will need to be 'updated' to reflect the current more-detailed planes). Now starts the meticulous task of punching out/deepening/defining ALL the rivets so that they show up and don't get covered with primer, paint, clear coats, etc. I'll upload some more photos of the other areas I re-riveted tomorrow or in the next couple days. First I make NO claim these rivet patterns are 100% accurate, but they're very close, I've studied countless reference photos for where the rivets are placed, so what you see is pretty much accurate, or as close as I could get it in some areas that were hard to work with. Evenly drawing lines over curved and uneven surfaces is very tricky, getting each row to line up in an uniform/identical pattern for other planes is also challenging but I created a trick, I'll talk more about next time basically just using masking tape that has a common/landmark reference and with a pencil to mark where each individual rivet row would go and connect them either with tamiya yellow tape or 1mm masking tape for curves. Then I draw the line with pencil so you can observe it to see if the rivet rows looks right or whatever you're after. The logic being you can always make changes with the pencil until its how you want it to look for your plane, once the plastic has been "cut" or in this case "riveted" you're pretty much set with what you've got (of course its doable to make corrections using CA glue but its annoying, slow, aggravating, etc). Then by simply using a common reference on the plastic, you can get each one to look almost identical to the others by having everything in place and line up like the others. I also re-did the gun panel, its not 100% accurate, but the overall look/impression matches, had to make some compromises with how I positioned the rivet rows. I'm still happy with it. However, the more I think about it, the most I realize this kit needs a LOT of work to make accurate combined with three of them....gulp....no rush! This is VERY time consuming, I'll keep posting photos of the other areas. And, I'm not finished with detailing, some detail still needs to be added in the way of drains, vents, antennas, panel lines, etc, using various scratch building techniques. I also modified the flaperons, even the really good builds here of the Su-27 usually miss this detail, the rivet pattern on the flaperons supplied by the kit are wrong, so is the hardware placements (I omitted/deleted these), in the real plane they also have an "open" area where the actuators are too I did that as well (again will be discussed in next update) so those will hopefully add some life to the builds you don't see much. Feels like a good time to stop, either tomorrow or the next few days i'll upload some more photos and show some more of the techniques, looking forward to getting some photo etch on them and getting them primed in the near future! Dan
  3. Greetings fellas, today I'm going to talk about the Zactoman intakes. To make an accurate Su-27 you really do need the Zactoman intakes, even after Trumpeter "updated" their kit parts they still didn't get it quite right. I forgot to take more photos of the Zactoman pieces while I was working with the, but if you've removed one resin casting block you removed them all, nothing too fancy to show, so I moved on to the construction. Below is a photo of most of the tools I use for sanding/filing with tasks like the intakes. After you've removed the casting blocks and have cleaned up an dry fitted the parts its time to mask of the interior. Its much easier to do this before they've been attached to the fuselage, its also a good idea to prime and paint the upper portion of the front of the intake in AKAN Flanker light blue FS 35550 in the little "crawl space" between the fuselage and intake. I'm doing mine with the steel grate covers up so no need to paint most of the interior, just the parts sticking out. The interior intake color is tricky and seems to vary from jet to jet, block to block? its usually either a gray or metallic-grey/metallic yellow-gold, I can't quite recall what color I went with but I think it was Tamiya Ocean Grey or Neutral Grey?. Now you're ready to attach all the parts of the intake together, you just need to be mindful to either not paint, mask off, or use a q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner to remove any overspray that may have adhered to the resin part that will have the CA glue/parts join on it. For those unfamiliar, resin parts will adhere very poorly even with CA glue if there is paint over them, especially a good solid coat for any major or structural joins, if its a really tiny fiddly part like a flight control stick it shouldn't be an issue but check anyways to play it safe. Next comes time to attach the assembled intake to the fuselage, this can be fairly tricky and you need to follow the Zactoman instructions about which kit parts need to be modified to make the intake fit depending on if you have the grates open or closed. Again dry fitting is key but even then you may have a gap here or there, step/mistmatch even if most of the part fits ok its probably not going to be a drop-in fit. Once the intakes have been attached to the fuselage its time to fill the gap, clean up/rescribe the detail. Easier said than done. Several months ago when I did this step, I thought since its underneath and I wouldn't see it much that I would just use Tamiya putty with several applications until it "hid" the gap for the most part. I did a few applications of the tamiya putty but never finished, but after setting that step aside for a while to do the riveting and other work I came back to it a few days ago, and just finished it today. What a bear! I looked at the gap closely and even with the putty the groove/gap was quite wide and didn't look too good so I carefully added CA glue with a tooth pick. applied accelerator and began to sand it. Apparently the CA glue interacted with the cured putty of several months and became ROCK hard, more so than with regular CA glue. Maybe the glue seeped into the "pores" of the more brittle putty and mixed with it creating a very hard join. What I thought was going to be about one hour's worth of work turned into about 8-10! Some of this is from carefully sanding and filing to preserve the detail that I deepened with one of my rivet punch tools. I like to mask off detail with tamiya tape that I need to preserve and take a photo of it before i start sanding so i know what i need to replace if i make a mistake. The silvering lining to the reaction of the CA glue and tamiya putty is that you can actually scribe the putty! Dont go hog wild as some parts are a little fragile still, particularly those that didn't get the CA glue or as much of it, but 97% i was able to scribe. After carefully sanding away the CA glue and putty and the little step that formed from having the tape in place when i used the accelerator and making sure the zactoman intakes were flush with the kit parts I applied some Demo tape. (I can't recommend anything better to help as a scribing guide). The Demo was carefully applied on the line separating the zactoman resin piece from the kit. Now time for a new tool. I was reading through one of Chuck Sawyers WIPs and he was talking about the various tool he uses for scribing; his favorite being the Trumpeter scriber. I decided to try something new and ordered one of the Trumpeter scribers. Now I'm usually a creature of habit and have been using my regular scriber that looks like a pen/pencil for years but its always been tricky on curves as significant as the engine nacelles. It took a few applications and a couple 'slips' (I see what he means about a fresh scriber being harder to control) I found out why he loves that thing so much, I found it easy to use even for when you have to "dig" a little with it. I will definitely be using that Trumpeter more in the future, and I imagine it will also be easier to use on regular styrene plastic and without that major curve of the nacelle. Lastly I cleaned up and added the small amount of detail work that got sanded off despite protection, but it was relatively easy to re-scribe and fix so no big deal. These Flankers may be fighting me all the way to priming but patience is key, don't want to rush things. And they aren't even major challenges to fix (despite one riveting problem that was really dodgy on the painted one, where I had to go back over it after painting, but I'll talk more about that in either the next or one of the future updates when I talk about riveting) it just seems like any time I think I might have a break and that something will be easy it becomes time-consuming. 3 Speaking of the painted plane, I get a headache just thinking about all the rivet, detail, and correction/fix work I'm going to have to go back and do on that other plane. See before I decided how integral the rivets are to the weathered look of these Flankers, I went and did most of the camouflage work on the first plane, but now I'll have to go back and change/add all the new detail work I've done for the current two planes, fix/correct a small area on the windshield and IRST (again its not really difficult work, just time consuming and meticulous) and then touch-up and blend in the new airbrush work (luckily having these Su-27s be so weathered makes the touchups easier in some instances, but certainly not all). Although the technique I developed to help ensure uniformity with riveting will help make this easier as the placement of the rows has already been already researched and determined, its just drawing the connecting lines. But anyways, I'll talk all about the riveting next time. Until then enjoy! Dan
  4. I've always liked GT Resin, and have had good experiences with most of their stuff. I do see where you're coming from though, I have had some pieces that required a fair amount of modification and improvements to fit right and look good, but he was kind enough to send me those parts and has always been good with customer service. One of the sets that required a fair amount of work to fit right were the 1/32 F-105 detail items, but its pretty much the only game in town so....speaking of which I need to take photos of my 1/32 F-15C and 1/32 F-105D soon too.
  5. Thats definitely a good idea, I've never tried to make a spare and Im not sure what would be involved but I imagine its rather labor-intensive. The other item I've been hunting for is a Wolfpack 1/32 Su-30K conversion as it has some critical parts to make an Su-27SM3 or some other version (which is also on my long list of future projects, but right now I don't have a windshield with the side mounted IRST and I can't even find a spare from the Su-30 kit anywhere), speaking of which if anyone has any photos that show the upper camouflage surface of the Su-27SM3 'Red 64' it would be much appreciated :-) It's too bad because I know I would buy quite a few if he ever started making the canopies again and they really do let you make an accurate flanker with some other work of course, and he was the only one on the market making it too, maybe, you never know?
  6. In this update I'll talk about how I installed the Zactoman Su-27 canopy sets. First, this was one of the longest parts of the project so far, not because its necessarily difficult or unique, although there are challenges working with vacuformed canopies, but I just kept dry fitting and trying to think many steps ahead of potential problems that could arise owing to the fact that these Zactoman Su-27 canopies are discontinued so I was really nervous I'd screw it up (Chris if you see this, PLEASE reconsider making them again, they are wonderful and help correct the kit into a really good looking shape/profile). Well luckily I think I got them to fit really well and at least I think they look great. I have lucked out and found a couple others....one day I plan on adding another Flanker or two to this project (Blue 03 and maybe Red 50, which is SU-27UB two seater?) If anyone has any reference photos of Blue 03 with the wolf on it I'd be very grateful. The biggest lesson in working with vacuformed parts is to give yourself a moderate amount of "extra" materia to play with in the initial cut, and to go VERY slowly with scoring the plastic and sanding it to precision. I carefully mark where the actual line needs to be with thin strips of tamiya tape and then cut a bit aways from that which gives you some room to get used to how the plastic handles/cuts/sands. Then I apply Demo tape which is secure, and apply either a lot of blue tac or clay to give the canopy strength. To Zactomans credit its good durable plastic and didn't give me any problems. Then use a fresh #11 xacto blade and carefully with a little pressure (you can practice on the scrap plastic after the initial cut if you need to and I did) follow the hard edge of the demo tape. Once you have made a few lighter passes, there should be somewhat of a "groove" in the plastic to help with firmer pressure and cuts. It can seem like its taking an eternity and you're probably doing it right, and eventually you will cut through. We're not out of the woods yet, now comes the really dodgy part where you need to separate the windshield from the canopy, same technique applies, but you need to be even more slow and careful because cutting on the curve is tricky. I found "pulling" the knife slowly towards me made a smoother more natural motion. Eventually with a lot of sweat and holding your breath you're done! Then you need to slowly and carefully sand/grind it down so it fits. A word to the wise, if you're keeping the canopy open it will make for far less headache and you get to see the wonderful detail of the resin cockpit. Now comes time to remove the rudimentary IRST piece on he kit with a razor saw and fit the zactoman IRST. Maybe I took off too much kit material, but I had hard time getting the IRST to sit flush with the fuselage/cockpit area. In the end I used a combination of carefully applied and sanded CA glue and superfine milliput to get it flush. In the end I had to blend it as one piece (which on the real plane it isn't like that) so I used Tamiya tape for curves to re-scribe the panel line delineating the outline of the IRST secured with dymo tape (this tamiya curve tape is wonderful stuff and I highly recommend it for any modelers tool collection). Its slightly "taller" but once the primer and paint is on it you won't be able to tell and most important it looks good/accurate. Remember to paint the inside of the zactoman IRST that faces the cockpit in black otherwise you'll have this awkward looking white resin piece staring at you from the inside of the windshield. To apply the windshield and canopy 'frame' or 'bulkhead' I dry fitted the parts to make sure they were flush by placing them face down on a flat surface. Now more hair raising work, you will need 'foam safe' CA glue specifically used for clear parts otherwise the fumes from regular CA glue will stick to any finger prints/smudges in the clear parts and ruin your part. What I did was apply a little of that special CA glue on a piece of cardboard and used a long toothpick/narrow wooden dowel to get a small amount of glue on it and then apply to the edge of the frame piece that will be attached to the clear parts and spread it around so its a thin film of glue that won't "push through" when you join the part together. I wouldn't use CA glue remover on the clear parts unless you test it on the same material scraps as that stuff can 'craze' styrene and ruin the part. Then position the canopy part face down an gently nudge and position the part quickly. I recommend practicing the motion without glue a few times so you know what to expect. Once you've dry fitted the living hell out of the parts, mask off the clear parts and spray the interior color either the Akan Flanker cockpit color or black on the inside of the side part that glues to the fuselage/cockpit area on the windshield. Again use the special CA glue for any cockpit parts for safety to attach the windshield and use some ca glue for the gap and sand smooth and re-scribe any panel lines/detail you need or lost. I find taking pictures of the kit parts before I go to town sanding helps with redoing the detail work and panel lines and such. Skipping WAY ahead, here's how one of them currently looks (more or less, there's currently more detail, but I just don't have an up to date photo and its late) Take a deep breath, get yourself a drink, kick your feet up and relax, one of the most stressful parts of the build is done...now you just need to be insane like me and repeat the process twice more :-) Next I'll talk a little about the intakes, and then on to the riveting. and flight control surfaces Until next time. Dan
  7. I was thinking of making the diorama base about 4-5 ft. wide, by about 3 ft. long or so. My plan is to have it be a fair amount of tarmac, with some terrain (the 'bunker' type thing seen in the inspiration photo above) and equipment/ground vehicles. It'll be very large, and certainly will take quite a while to do, but I'm excited to learn some new types of modeling and techniques to try and use for it.
  8. Ok, so here's the next update. Today I'll discuss the Zactoman nose. To reiterate, its a BEAUTIFUL piece of resin and really corrects the shape/length issues of the kit (even after the Trumpeter 'fix'). The problem is with the fit, however, with a little finesse its somewhat easy to get looking pretty good. The problem is the kit fuselage halves have a larger circumference than the resin nose, even if you adjust the screw, take off a little plastic on the side of fuselage right before the end it still won't fit right. The second issue is trying to get the nose to be level or 'flush' with the fuselage. I've seen some people try really strong epoxy (and I did that once but it never cured properly and even if it would've I predict one day it would break because there would just be too much force used to keep the bond secure. Basically if you make it level, it won't fit on the top properly and thats the part you'll see for the most part. I did end up getting it to look damn good in the end. In the above photo you can see the edge of the kit parts where the plastic is really thin/stressed probably from me messing around with it. If you do see this and an indention form you can just apply a little CA glue over the 'divot' and sand it smooth and flush, pretty easy fix. I scratched my head and eventually came to a solution after re-reading the Zactoman instructions...small beads of CA glue to fill the gap with accelerator. You do end up compromising a little with the positioning, but this way you get the best of both worlds and its flush with the fuselage and doesn't look weird. Before applying the CA glue be sure to carefully tape off the detail on the nose to protect it from mistakes/smeared glue. I just apply a little more glue than is needed to make sure its even and flush after CAREFULLY sanding with progressively finer grains. Then comes the tricky part, re-scribing the panel line that delineates where the radome meet the fuselage, only tricky part is its not a simple vertical/round shape. yes, its round but its "canted" at a funny angle. So to get around this I use Demo tape all the way around, but in the parts where the tape wasn't stuck to the fuselage I applied a liberal amount of blue tac, and some other dymo/tamiya tape to secure it. You just need it to be secure/stable enough for scribing, once thats done you can use a rivet wheel/template to add some lost rivets and details. Applying Tamiya tape over the detail really helps to protect it, sometimes you sand through, so just watch closely and apply another piece over it or remove the worn one and replace with a new piece. It really helps make cleaning up the detail much easier. Lastly, I wanted to give everyone a small preview of the insane amount of rivet work that was done, this is just a small peak though, I still need to deepen/define pretty much all the rivets in order for them to show up with primer, paint, gloss coats, washes, etc. Yes its time consuming, but it'll pay dividends later, and if you break it up into smaller sessions it doesn't seem so daunting. Next update I'll discuss and show how I did the Zactoman canopy and IRST. It was one of the longest parts of the build because they're out of print, although I have been able to find 3 other canopies, but only 2 sets of the IRST and actuator parts (one was a spare Chris Wilson from Zactoman used to supply which was really nice especially if you've never worked with vacuformed parts before and make a mistake), what made it so difficult was I was so worried about making a mistake that I thought through each step and tried to figure out what could go wrong and how to correct it. Eventually it worked out, but it was really dodgy, cutting and sanding and fitting knowing if I screwed up I was really in trouble. The above photo isn't complete, there were actually more rivet detail aded to the nose shortly after I took the photo. I have to remove some of the tape I used for lining up the rivets I made as a bootleg template (I'll talk more about that in the future when I discuss the riveting, as it proved to be an easy and useful technique for assuring the rivet lines are essentially uniform and identical between the 3 planes) and then I can show more of the rivet detail I added as a preview; but that'll be soon.
  9. Almost forgot here's the photo the diorama will be very similar too, but minus so many planes. This was the inspiration and due credit given. Maybe one day Blue 03 with the wolf but i don't have all angles, only some....maybe one day i luck out again?
  10. Let me take a moment to tell you about what I've termed 'Projekt Flanker.' This will be a large scale diorama based at the Russian Kilp Yavr Airbase up in the Arctic Circle. I've been at work off/on this project intermittently for a couple years so far. It features (3) Trumpeter Su-27 Flankers heavily modified with basically all the aftermarket you can throw at it them, Zactoman nose, canopy, intakes, weapons pylons, and missiles. Aires 1/32 Su-27 Cockpit, and Exhausts (2) Quickboost Ejection seats with pilots, Eduard 1/32 Su-27 Exterior Detail, aftermarket wheels which name escapes me now (or do I need to order these?), Linden Hill 1/32 Su-27 Flankers on Patrol: Guardians of the North' decals, Begemot 1/32 Su-27 stencils, Trumpeter Mi-8 Hip with quite a bit of aftermarket from Profimodeller thats en route, Scale Aircraft Conversions landing gear, Eduard Mi-8 stencils, Linden Hill 1/32 Mi-8 decals, Speedway Decals custom decals for various parts on the Mi-8. I've also got a Trumpeter GAZ-66? Russian oil/fuel? truck, Trumpeter 1/35 rutruckssian utility-type, various ground equipment, tow bars, ladders, etc., a tarmac and a little terrain/bunker (although I have NO idea or experience with stuff like that, what better way to learn than sink or swim?). I lucked out and got the motherload of reference photos for several Su-27s (Blue 38, Blue 36, and Blue 41 among a couple others) that show all angles of the actual subjects shown (I waited YEARS to find these), these aircraft get REALLY weathered, which I just love airbrushing so I can't wait to get to airbrushing again sometime soon. I've also re-riveted essentially the entire airplane, 3 times over, so you can imagine its rather time consuming, however, the rivets really add to the weathered and beaten look of these aircraft and I have an idea to help make this even more apparent. I thoroughly researched the actual rivet patterns of the planes, and while not 100% accurate, its probably about 95% accurate (minus some of the double riveting), drew them in pencil, made edits/changes, and went over it with my 'rosie the riveter' and another rivet tool, I will more than likely end up deepening the rivets each by hand so that they show up well with primer, paint, gloss coat, etc. I had a problem without doing it where after the primer for the first 'test' plane I used filled in most of the detail I spent HOURS adding so I very carefully went over it VERY precisely and deepened the rivet without it looking doubled and weird. I actually mostly painted and did some weathering with a first to try out techniques/planning on 'Blue 36' however I decided once I started re-riveting the other two that I would have to go back and add the rivet, panel, panel line detail to make them look 'uniform.' While a little bit of a setback, its not bad, just time consuming and meticulous work but I'm not in a rush. I'm planning on this project taking quite a while, so I'm planning some other builds to actually complete and paint sooner than this project will allow. A 1/32 A-6E Intruder, 1/32 F-16B Israeli Air Force, 1/32 A-1H Skyraider (already primed) will help "fill the gaps." I apologize for not getting these photos together sooner, but I'll try to just start with a few and describe some of the harder steps and how I tried to handle them. Any help, tips, criticism (lets not get out of control here though), reference photos, etc are welcomed. Lets begin with the cockpit, I prepared the Aires 1/32 cockpit with a power drill loaded with a sanding attachment, a dodgy affair if there ever was one. You need to dry fit these things very carefully and diligently, I don't believe I had to take too much material out of the inside of the plastic near the cockpit on the kit. You do need to make sure that the there is proper fit/clearance near the nose gear bay top, I believe you need there to be a gap between the bottom of theremin cockpit and the nose gear bay part otherwise it won't fit. That and what I talk about below with removal of the resin 'shims' were really the only tricky parts of the fit, overall its pretty good especially for Aires (if you know what I mean) Also, if you look at the sides of the cockpit here you see that little 'shim' of plastic on the lower edge? I sanded that down really smooth, I don't believe I sanded the inside of the fuselage sides that much (or at all) but it was quite a while ago. I painted it with Badger Stynylrez Primer (lightened with some white), sprayed a base of aluminum, used AK interactive chipping solution, and sprayed Akan Flanker cockpit blue, then used a moistened/damp brush and a small stiff one to pick out some scratches to help with the weathered look. Various details were picked out with reference photos and painted accordingly when possible, some of the detail I just painted randomly to represent replacing/different parts? and give it a little interest to the eye. Painted the pants in a camouflage color I saw one of the pilots there wearing these pants and thought it would be a neat little touch. Some dry brushing and wash was added to, and then a flat coat to knock it back a bit. Next time, I'll talk more about the nose....its a beautiful piece of resin, that is challenging to properly attach. Finesse and not strength is key. Basically you have to "compromise" a little on the angle/positioning to capitalize on as even a look as possible. Carefully adding CA glue is best to strengthen the bond, once carefully sanded smooth (to preserve detail and masking tape helps wonders even if you have to reapply it several times), oh well, I'm getting carried away, the pictures are more interesting and should speak wonders and i'll discuss the technique in detail.
  11. Thanks for the kind words everyone, I really wish someone would release an 'A' model conversion set, or maybe one day Tamiya will create a 'B' or more likely 'D' version. It seems like they designed the 1/32 F-16CJ at least with the possibility of a two-seater version one day happening. This was one of my first highly detailed builds I did and I must say I really enjoyed it. So much so that now most of my builds start out fairly basic, but then I start thinking about aftermarket and things just get more complicated, but it certainly does pay off in the end.
  12. So I haven't posted anything new for quite a while, but believe me I have complete several projects and have some big ones in progress, and even more I'm gathering aftermarket for (Don't tell my wife :-). This is the Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ, which is a great kit on its own but I decided to backdate into an F-16A OCU for the USN/USMC. I used the True Details 1/32 F-16A cockpit (it required a lot of sanding, trimming, and swearing to get it to fit, but it now fits like a glove and I can even close the canopy with no problems), GT Resin 1/32 NSI inlet, a generous gift of the Tamiya 1/32 F-16C Thunderbirds landing gear parts, non-bulged main gear bay doors, and early-model 'thin' wingtip launch rails from GT Resin as well, really nice fellow, I highly recommend any of his stuff, KASL F-16A tail with the parachute housing removed and kit parts grafted (I later found out it wasn't completely accurate after it was done, but its really hard to tell), GT Resin PW exhaust, lots of scratch building antennas, deleting/adding certain details to make it into an F-16A OCU, like only 2 prongs on the inboard leading edge slats, redoing panel lines on the rear fuselage, etc., Two Bobs F-16 Aggressor Decals. I hope you enjoy checking out the photos, I've got a big WIP diorama of "PROJEKT FLANKER," Kilp Yavr Russian Air Base with (3) highly modified and detailed Su-27s, (1) Mi-8 Hip, and various ground vehicles, equipment, tarmac, and a small amount of terrain thats been underway and I'm hoping to start the WIP this weekend. I need to take photos of the Tamiya 1/32 F-15C Eagle of the California Air National Guard which used Chuck Sawyers build for reference and is very similar but with some more rivet detail and weapons on it. I need to upload photos of the Trumpeter 1/32 F-105D 'Thunderchief' "Cherry Girl" (wait until you see the nose art :-) I finished. I have a 1/32 A-1H Skyraider in white primer, almost ready to paint up on a rainy day, as the plane Dieter Dengler flew in the Vietnam War. Also lurking on the distant horizon is a 1/32 A-6E Intruder (HEAVILY weathered CAG bird from the Gulf War), Academy 1/32 F-16B 'Fighting Falcon' in IDF markings, inspired from 'Iron Eagle,' and a 1/32 A-10C Thunderbolt II of the 163rd FS/122nd FW in Ft. Wayne the 'Blacksnakes'.
  13. First, really cool subject, its about time someone did a 1/32 MiG-29 here. In regard to the problem of the LERX, I have an idea. I encountered a somewhat similar issue with 'Projekt Flanker' (A large Kilp Yavr Russian Air base diorama, with (3) 1/32 Su-27 Flankers (loaded with all the aftermarket), (1) 1/35 Mi-8 Hip, and various ground vehicles, equipment, tarmac, a little terrain that I will try to add my first WIP entry here this weekend, its been well underway for a while now and I have 2 of the Su-27s almost ready to prime, I have to go back and add rivet and panel line detail to one I started painting so its like the other two, to make them look uniform and realistic) anyhow, sorry I digressed there for a moment. Please see below for my idea. You see, the kit leading edge slats of the Su-27s lack the little 'bulged' 'extensions' near the wing root so I mixed some superfine white milliput (finer grain white allows better sanding) and made a little larger VERY rough shape of the extension (it aligns with a panel line so its a little easier getting the position and shape right) and then I drew in pencil where I wanted the leading edge of the new bulge to be, to aid in sanding it uniformly on both sides. I then VERY slowly began sanding it down to shape until it seamlessly blended with the slat. You could try taking some milliput and apply it larger than you'd need as a long 'snake' and put it there for where the LERX extension shims are and then sand it to the shape you want, the stuff dries ROCK hard (think like CA glue does). Or you could cut little 'bulkheads' that would outline the cross-section of the shape you need and attach those to the kit and then add the milliput. The bulkheads would act as a guide for how to sand it. In case you weren't aware Zactoman has some really great 1/32 MiG-29 stuff for the NEW trumpeter mig-29s you might want to check out.
  14. Hello all, so I'm still hard at work (with significant progress and pictures soon, I always seem to want to make more progress instead of taking photos, but I have been taking lots along the way to show most of the steps for an eventual WIP) on "Projekt Flanker" (1/32 arctic diorama featuring 3 highly modified with resin and scratch building Su-27s, 1 Mi-8 Hip, various ground vehicles, tarmac equipments, light posts, tow bars, ladders, etc.), I'm concentrating working on the Su-27s right now, and I'm fully riveting each one (very time consuming) to help with making the weathering effects more convincing and apparent. A lot of the rivets are mostly filed down on the real plane and then painted over, its only after significant weathering, wear/tear, bleaching, and chipping that more of these rivets start to show. So to help with this effect, I was thinking of making the rivets that are exposed where the paint has worn/weathered away to have more contrast, i.e. they would be dark grey (maybe brown in some areas)or black, and then I thought of maybe using either a light blue, medium blue, or grey (the main camouflage colors of the Flanker) on the rivets and panels where the paint is still there or hasn't weathered and faded away so much. Certainly, if this doesn't work, removing the washes isn't typically too hard with a good gloss coat and some mineral spirits; but to finally cut to the chase, I was wondering if someone has ever tried a similar technique, if so, how did it work for you? Does it look convincing or odd? Photos would be helpful too to see how the effect in question actually looks. Thanks for your time Dan
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