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dsahling1

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dsahling1 last won the day on February 14 2017

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About dsahling1

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  1. It's a really fun plane to airbrush that SEA camouflage scheme onto these huge aircraft, if you're into learning a little about the history/engineering/operations of the F-105G "Wild Weasels" check out "The Hunter-Killers" by Dan Hampton. Good book about the history of how the "wild weasel" and SEAD/DEAD missions came to be, and how they played that deadly game of cat and mouse.
  2. Yes, the one that I use is a little different, it has the light separate, but the overall purpose is the same, i don't know how i would handle some of the detail, scribing, and rivets without it. Isn't riveting fun? Not tedious, especially with 3 planes, especially with 3 planes, especially with 3 planes :-) Keep up the good work! Dan
  3. As a fellow modeler currently punching out thousands of tiny rivets for my three 1/32 Su-27s, one tool I can you makes a WORLD of difference is to have a good lamp with a movable magnifying glass attached to the base so you can adjust the positioning depending on the task. It makes riveting much easier, sadly it doesn't solve the tedious part :-). Dan
  4. Thanks for the encouragement, I've been working on this project for about a year and change with a couple breaks here and there. I find patience is one of the most important modeling skills to have, and I remind myself by not rush that I can get these to look really stellar in the end. Once the current 2 Su-27s I've been working on are primed I'm going to switch to an OOB project of a Tamiya 1/32 DeHavilland Mosquito Mk. VI. I need to get my airbrushing skills up to par again since its been a while since I've done some good solid airbrushing, and getting to add some "mottling" to make the p
  5. I'll have to give that a shot, if I recall doesn't he just use the Tamiya panel line accent wash to highlight the rivets/panels/details? I actually ended up getting all of the rivets on just how I was hoping, sometimes the curved surfaces cause the rivet wheel tool to "slip" and it wasn't until the very end on the Zactoman nose, with the last rivet pass to go when it got away from me and luckily while the line was crooked it was only about an inch and I was able to fix it with CA glue, and is now straight but that was dodgy for a while and involved a lot of swearing.
  6. Just wanted to provide some updates on the progress of the project. I finished pretty much most of the basic riveting (first pass) for both of the current planes (the 3rd that already has paint on it will need to be 'updated' to reflect the current more-detailed planes). Now starts the meticulous task of punching out/deepening/defining ALL the rivets so that they show up and don't get covered with primer, paint, clear coats, etc. I'll upload some more photos of the other areas I re-riveted tomorrow or in the next couple days. First I make
  7. Greetings fellas, today I'm going to talk about the Zactoman intakes. To make an accurate Su-27 you really do need the Zactoman intakes, even after Trumpeter "updated" their kit parts they still didn't get it quite right. I forgot to take more photos of the Zactoman pieces while I was working with the, but if you've removed one resin casting block you removed them all, nothing too fancy to show, so I moved on to the construction. Below is a photo of most of the tools I use for sanding/filing with tasks like the intakes. After
  8. I've always liked GT Resin, and have had good experiences with most of their stuff. I do see where you're coming from though, I have had some pieces that required a fair amount of modification and improvements to fit right and look good, but he was kind enough to send me those parts and has always been good with customer service. One of the sets that required a fair amount of work to fit right were the 1/32 F-105 detail items, but its pretty much the only game in town so....speaking of which I need to take photos of my 1/32 F-15C and 1/32 F-105D soon too.
  9. Thats definitely a good idea, I've never tried to make a spare and Im not sure what would be involved but I imagine its rather labor-intensive. The other item I've been hunting for is a Wolfpack 1/32 Su-30K conversion as it has some critical parts to make an Su-27SM3 or some other version (which is also on my long list of future projects, but right now I don't have a windshield with the side mounted IRST and I can't even find a spare from the Su-30 kit anywhere), speaking of which if anyone has any photos that show the upper camouflage surface of the Su-27SM3 'Red 64' it would be much apprec
  10. In this update I'll talk about how I installed the Zactoman Su-27 canopy sets. First, this was one of the longest parts of the project so far, not because its necessarily difficult or unique, although there are challenges working with vacuformed canopies, but I just kept dry fitting and trying to think many steps ahead of potential problems that could arise owing to the fact that these Zactoman Su-27 canopies are discontinued so I was really nervous I'd screw it up (Chris if you see this, PLEASE reconsider making them again, they are wonderful and help correct the kit into a really good looki
  11. I was thinking of making the diorama base about 4-5 ft. wide, by about 3 ft. long or so. My plan is to have it be a fair amount of tarmac, with some terrain (the 'bunker' type thing seen in the inspiration photo above) and equipment/ground vehicles. It'll be very large, and certainly will take quite a while to do, but I'm excited to learn some new types of modeling and techniques to try and use for it.
  12. Ok, so here's the next update. Today I'll discuss the Zactoman nose. To reiterate, its a BEAUTIFUL piece of resin and really corrects the shape/length issues of the kit (even after the Trumpeter 'fix'). The problem is with the fit, however, with a little finesse its somewhat easy to get looking pretty good. The problem is the kit fuselage halves have a larger circumference than the resin nose, even if you adjust the screw, take off a little plastic on the side of fuselage right before the end it still won't fit right. The second issue is trying to get the nose to be level or 'flush' with
  13. Almost forgot here's the photo the diorama will be very similar too, but minus so many planes. This was the inspiration and due credit given. Maybe one day Blue 03 with the wolf but i don't have all angles, only some....maybe one day i luck out again?
  14. Let me take a moment to tell you about what I've termed 'Projekt Flanker.' This will be a large scale diorama based at the Russian Kilp Yavr Airbase up in the Arctic Circle. I've been at work off/on this project intermittently for a couple years so far. It features (3) Trumpeter Su-27 Flankers heavily modified with basically all the aftermarket you can throw at it them, Zactoman nose, canopy, intakes, weapons pylons, and missiles. Aires 1/32 Su-27 Cockpit, and Exhausts (2) Quickboost Ejection seats with pilots, Eduard 1/32 Su-27 Exterior Detail, aftermarket wheels which name escapes me now
  15. Thanks for the kind words everyone, I really wish someone would release an 'A' model conversion set, or maybe one day Tamiya will create a 'B' or more likely 'D' version. It seems like they designed the 1/32 F-16CJ at least with the possibility of a two-seater version one day happening. This was one of my first highly detailed builds I did and I must say I really enjoyed it. So much so that now most of my builds start out fairly basic, but then I start thinking about aftermarket and things just get more complicated, but it certainly does pay off in the end.
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