F7F-3 Tigercat - BuNo 80405 - VMF 312 MCAS - El Toro, CA 1946

[jeroen_R90S]

I started reading back to front and have bookmarked this thread, as there's much more to read. Very impressive work, and persistance should pay off

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks all! 

Very kind of you to drop by and post.

Ive got paint on the interior of the nacelles, as well as the completion of the engine bearers.

 

More work done.............just need a few min to organize pics

[Out2gtcha]

I started off by finishing the final sanding and adding of the nacelle bulkhead frames, as well as drilling the hole for the MLG through the provided block previously attached with JB Weld. This was a curiosity as well, since I was wondering why the heck the build that HpH was showing in the instructions showed a hole for the MLG drilled on the OUTSIDE of the nacelle.................

Now I know.  With the MLG block installed, there is NO WAY to get a drill bit into the hole from the inside!  So I measured where it should be, and drilled it from the outside. Will need to fill that later for sure.

 

I did manage to get some MRP interior green sprayed on the necessary parts of the nacelles however, including the upper ceilings of the wheel wells:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before the rest of the detailing and weathering of the nacelles/wheel wells could take place, I had to make sure that the engine bearers would fit precisely into the firewall openings above. 

That meant that next up had to be the engine bearers. As said above, the engine bearers are in place and all glued up in the final resting positions all the parts need to be in. I have to look at it like they are actually where they need to be, because if I concentrate on how they look atm, I'm highly disappointed. I ended up doing it the old fashioned way (AKA my normal MO) and just went for it by the seat of my pants. 

 

Lots and lots of finishing work to go on these engine bearers but they are finally in place!   Some sections of the engine bearers look like a badly set broken leg, but I think I can remedy most of it with finishing work, filler, Mr Surfacer and some hard core determination.

 

I didnt take any super macro shots, as I know how they look up close 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I ended up taking a flat sanding stick, and sanding the front faces of the engine bearer rings flat to even things out so as to get it even with the nacelle firewall. This did work out in the end, and while not perfect, they are good enough to fit where they need to and fairly center the engine once its actually glued in

You can see how flat the outer side of the front engine bearer rings are:

 

 

 

 

 

Tight squeeze for sure:

 

 

 

 

 

After sanding on the front engine bearer rings to get them flush, I quickly figured out that it had made the bearer rings VERY thin and extra fragile (they already were very fragile to begin with, as Id broken each several times already).

I also quickly figured out I needed the engine bearer ring to not quite be flush with the firewall, but instead stick proud of it just a mm or two. So that set in motion a solution of brass for strength as well as to get the bearer in the correct final position.

 

Per previous technique of heating brass rod up with a torch, then wrapping it around a wrench socket was used. I figured out what diameter I needed, match to the correct socket, soldered the rings together, then I put the two rings around that same socket and used it to "roll" the rings more symmetrically round on a cutting board. 

 

 

 

 

 

Since the rings themselves were now quite thin, and prone to flexing out of round, not only would the brass rings add strength and get the ring in the position it needed to be in, but it also will keep the front ring from distorting shape, and keep it perfectly round to accept the rear of the R2800:

 

 

 

 

 

Ill be using some JB Weld here for the rings, as it will not only add a lot of strength, but JBW is very sandable, and will fill in some areas that needed more material. 

 

Im back on the big cat tonight! 

[Kagemusha]

Great problem solving Brian. 

[adameliclem]

Brian, I salute your artistry and courage. Great work.

 

Adam

 

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks gents. This kit is certainly a "P": lessons in patience, persistence and especially perseverance.

[MikeMaben]

 

Peachy looking too

[JayW]

JB Weld - anything special about this stuff?  It appears to be a 2-part epoxy with 5 minute cure?  Is it different from "Quik-Cure" epoxy?  I have used that stuff for non-plastic applications for a long time, with average results.

[levier]

Jay, it bonds just about anything, metal, plastic, wood... kinda thick, but seriously strong!

[Out2gtcha]

15 hours ago, JayW said:

JB Weld - anything special about this stuff?  It appears to be a 2-part epoxy with 5 minute cure?  Is it different from "Quik-Cure" epoxy?  I have used that stuff for non-plastic applications for a long time, with average results.

 

14 hours ago, levier said:

Jay, it bonds just about anything, metal, plastic, wood... kinda thick, but seriously strong!

 

 

Yep!  

 

Jay, it is by far and away THE best epoxy on the market as far as I'm concerned.  In reality, my brother used it to "temporarily" fix a crack in the block of his 1940 Ford sedan...............That was 8 years ago, and he sold the car a year or so ago and the JB Weld was STILL holding on the engine block when he sold it (he let the new buyer know of course!)

Its really WAY different than the normal 5 min epoxy we all know.  The working time is about 5 min, but cure time is overnight. Not brittle or prone to cracks like normal epoxy can me. 

But yes, its super duper DUPER strong stuff, but amazingly it sands well, about like resin, and there is no brittleness at all.    It does in fact stick to ANYTHING, plastic, resin, glass, metal, wood you name it. Tough as nails.

 

Just one thing..........just make ABSOLUTELY sure whatever part you are gluing is exactly where you want it before gluing with JB Weld.  Once glued, I've had much better luck breaking the actual part I tried to glue VS trying to break the JB Weld bond.

Get yourself some, you wont be sorry!  

[dutik]

You are going on and on

 

You'll soon get a call from Houston. NASA is looking for someone to manage the upcoming manned mission to Mars. You are the best one for this job

 

Regards

- dutik

[Jack]

Brian, your work is a real inspiration, i mean i "managed" to build a more or less "good looking" vacform version of the big Cat, bought the resin version lateron, followed your work, or should i say sometimes your ordeal, you managed to get around some building barriers, but eventually i'm convinced you'll have a real show stopper to show us all.

Good work, best wishes in these times and stay safe.

 

Jack

[Jack]

4 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

 

Yep!  

 

Jay, it is by far and away THE best epoxy on the market as far as I'm concerned.  In reality, my brother used it to "temporarily" fix a crack in the block of his 1940 Ford sedan...............That was 8 years ago, and he sold the car a year or so ago and the JB Weld was STILL holding on the engine block when he sold it (he let the new buyer know of course!)

Its really WAY different than the normal 5 min epoxy we all know.  The working time is about 5 min, but cure time is overnight. Not brittle or prone to cracks like normal epoxy can me. 

But yes, its super duper DUPER strong stuff, but amazingly it sands well, about like resin, and there is no brittleness at all.    It does in fact stick to ANYTHING, plastic, resin, glass, metal, wood you name it. Tough as nails.

 

Just one thing..........just make ABSOLUTELY sure whatever part you are gluing is exactly where you want it before gluing with JB Weld.  Once glued, I've had much better luck breaking the actual part I tried to glue VS trying to break the JB Weld bond.

Get yourself some, you wont be sorry!  

 

And i don't know if this is mentioned before in these remarks concerning JB bond, but there are two version availlable, the normal bonding strength version and a stronger version in the end result, have used both already with lots of succes (not specifically modelling related).

[BiggTim]

4 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

 

Yep!  

 

Jay, it is by far and away THE best epoxy on the market as far as I'm concerned. 

You could also try this stuff:

 

https://www.pcepoxy.com/products/permanent-repair/pc-7-paste-epoxy/

 

It's basically the same thing, but a little bit better, and comes in a can instead of tubes. I hate the tubes, they always leak and the caps die before I can use it all.

[JayW]

For all of you who responded to the JB weld subject - Thanks!!  This is what I like about LSP.  One can learn and learn on top of that.  My work with acrylic and metals has left me wanting for better adhesive solutions.  And I am getting them right now.