dodgem37 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Nice detailing, Chuck. Super camera work. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Chuck Some mighty fine detail investigation work in sorting out the seat and seatbelt issues. Looking forward to your next update with the start of the front office paint work Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm In Toronto Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Yay, painting next!! Nice work on the belts Chuck. Have never had any luck with Eduard's pre-painted belts either - too hard to bend realistically unless annealed - and as you note, can't be properly annealed without destroying the paint. (Catch 22?), "Warming" was an inspired compromise - I'm very impressed that you managed to "warm" them over a candle and still not discolour the "paint". Which raises the question: "Does Eduard actually use paint" - or is it some type of Ink (or other substance)? Norm. Edited March 3, 2016 by Norm In Toronto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logical Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Tamiya use the masking tape for their belts on the F-16. Could that have worked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Tamiya use the masking tape for their belts on the F-16. Could that have worked? Yes and so would have lead wine bottle wrap and a few other things, but the fine stitching on the belts would be absent. The Eduard stitching is overkill, I admit, but I like it better than nothing. Again, art trumps accuracy sometimes, at least for me. For those who have not seen that belt configuration on the upper seat back, here's an F-15 seat from the Ejection Seat Site. Those long fasteners are on this seat are there, but based upon the sage green seat cushions, I'll bet they are no longer used. http://www.ejectionsite.com/anon1/F15ACESR.jpg For those unfamiliar with the HGW cloth seat belts, here's a set for the P-51D. They really look the part, as would the F-16 set if I could get my hands on one.... Edited March 3, 2016 by chuck540z3 Rocat, Rdrunner and David66 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richdlc Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 great stuff chuck, keep going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I like that idea to replicate the sheep skin seat cushion. It should look terrific when painted. Great work, as usual, Chuck! Cheers Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmel Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Your seat harness looks fine, Chuck. You have it exactly as it should be. The bottom belts (one pair is the lap belt that connects to each other and the other two snap onto the pilot's harness near each hip) can be configured differently based on what part of the jet's daily cycle you wish to model. For instance, the crew chief will prepare the seat for the pilot before he gets there and will arrange the belts and harness for easy (easier, anyway) strap in. On the other hand, following the pilot's exit from the jet, the straps can be anywhere, or even laying off of the seat and onto the instrument panel console. Jake David66 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghatherly Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) Hey Chuck, Great progress. One thing you might want to consider is replacing the square resin section ejection tube with a PE one. The PE part comes with the F-15E seat set, # 32601 and have other neat Aces II seat goodies. Gary Edited March 6, 2016 by LSP_Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Chuck Just how good are you? Jesus... Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 March 8/16 Thank you guys. Although I don't usually respond to every post, I read every single one and appreciate them all. This is not an update as much as a paint discovery that I'd like to share for those who may have encountered the same thing. A few years ago, I was a very big Krylon fan, using their decanted gloss black paint for just about everything, but mostly as a primer for Alclad metallic lacquers. I found out later that although this paint used to be a lacquer, the formula changed to enamel a few years ago, which is why it always took a few days to dry and cure. Gloss Model Master enamels take about a week to dry, so this was a significant step forward if you use enamels and are as impatient as I am to get on with it! During my P-38L build, I gave the Tamiya TS lacquer series a try, also in a spray can that I decanted and used in my air brush. As a rule, I don't use a primer of any kind. Whatever Model Master enamel I will likely be using as a final coat is good enough as a “primer†to reveal flaws before I commit to a final coat, so I did the same with the Tamiya lacquers. They both stick to plastic like crazy, so peeling of paint is never a risk. The results on straight plastic can be stunning, so I became an instant fan. So much so, I didn't think I would ever use Krylon ever again. Why wait for paint to dry when you can have instant gratification with lacquer? I did, however, encounter adhesion issues with the tips of some resin prop blades. For some reason, I couldn't get the Tamiya lacquer to stick to the resin on the tips, even though I thoroughly washed all resin parts with soapy water and wiped them off with solvent. For my cockpit work, I like to spray the entire pit with gloss black first, for reasons you will see later. If you want to be trendy these days you can call it “black basing†I suppose, but I just call it gloss black primer. I first get all the parts together, with the smaller ones stuck to masking tape for ease of painting. Before I sprayed the resin with Tamiya gloss black lacquer, I did a test of the extra Avionix resin seat to see if it would react like the prop blades above. Sure enough, the lacquer paint pulled back from the edges, leaving the paint finish uneven and blotchy. Yes, I cleaned the resin first, so just like with the prop blades, Tamiya lacquer paint will not stick to resin without some kind of primer coat applied first. I don't ever recall having adhesion issues with Krylon gloss black enamel before, so I gave it a try on the other side of the seat. No problems whatsoever. It sticks and lays down smooth- or at least as smooth as the rough resin surface would allow. When I see how rough this seat is, I'm glad I chose the Aires seat instead. So I painted all the resin parts with Krylon enamel nstead. It takes a few days to dry and cure properly, so I'll move onto other things while I wait. So why gloss black as a primer coat? Here's why. 1) After the black paint has dried, I am going to seal the paint with a clear acrylic coat of Tamiya X-22, which is shiny anyway. 2) As other paint colors are applied to the cockpit parts, the black will provide shadows under the paint to create depth and provide detail. Further, I will purposely spray new paint from above, so that relief on the parts will provide natural shadows underneath them, leaving some of the black. 3) I will be removing some of the new paint with solvent on a micro-brush to cleanup overspray, but also to reveal black parts underneath, like cable detail. If the primer coat was flat, it will be harder to remove the new paint. The acrylic clear coat will protect the gloss black from the solvent 4) Many of the parts are actually black anyway, so they will not need to be painted again. 5) I will be adding many tiny Airscale decals to the instrument panel and other gauges (Thanks Peter!). With gloss paint, I'm good to go without the need for Future, etc. 6) When everything is painted the way I want it, I will spray a clear dull coat to knock down any residual shine and seal the paint Here's an example of using a black gloss primer before interior green enamel on my P-38L build. The shadows are subtle, but they add something more interesting to look at than just green paint. With the super detail of this F-15C cockpit, the effect should be much stronger. That's it for now boys and lesson learned. Don't spray Tamiya Lacquer on resin without a primer coat! Cheers, Chuck Rdrunner, sax003, David66 and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Beautiful Chuck! Your kerosene burner is coming along very nicely. I'm surprised that the Tamiya gloss black lacquer fish eyes so badly on the resin bits. I've not run in to that before. One thing I've started to use is Tamiya's semi-gloss clear lacquer spray for my finish coats as opposed to dead flat (although I use that too for certain items). I find that if I literally blush the last coat on I get something just off of a dead flat sheen and I think it looks much better. Just a suggestion and not in any way a criticism. Love what you're doin' Chuck! Cheers, Wolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngtiger1 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 2) As other paint colors are applied to the cockpit parts, the black will provide shadows under the paint to create depth and provide detail. Further, I will purposely spray new paint from above, so that relief on the parts will provide natural shadows underneath them, leaving some of the black. Hey Chuck, Can you explain bit more about what you mean "I will purposely spray new paint from above." I know, you mean above the black, but are you saying above as in an angle so the black under sharp edges od the detail is left exposed? TIA Mike Shoggz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Hey Chuck, Can you explain bit more about what you mean "I will purposely spray new paint from above." I know, you mean above the black, but are you saying above as in an angle so the black under sharp edges od the detail is left exposed? TIA Mike I'm not Chuck, but yeah, that's what he means - spraying down onto the detail from a high angle, so that the new paint leaves shadows of black. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 You guys are too good for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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