ghatherly

Thx guys, I really appreciate the help. Kag...., I want to model the aircraft in flight, so mostly seated but stations like the waist guns would be standing, ball turret all curled up, etc Stay Safe, Gary

Hi everyone, looking for WW II 1/32 flight crew figures, for US, German, and RAF Bombers. any help would be appreciated. thx, Gary

Hi Mike, I would wait for the ZM kit which is in the works. Merry Christmas

Just made my reservation. CC went through just fine. Gary

Hi, Just ordered both books. Look forward to getting them. Gary

You are absolutely correct Marcel. When I first saw these I was blown away as they are 100% 3D printed. Having built full hybrid exhausts using Flightpath and Eduard PE, Kit plastic, and scratch building that take a solid 40-50 hour to build up, these are a true value in my opinion. I share your thoughts that there are other aspects of model building I want to spend time with rather than spend all of that time on every F-15 build putting the exhaust nozzles together. What is even more impressive is the same fidelity of detail is available in 1/48 scale too!!!!

I think you are confusing the actuator arm that you did use, with the small link rods, which on your nozzles are PE. back to work, will check back in a bit.

What kit ones are you referring too, the burner tube, the actuator arms, or the bell crank connecting rods?

I guess we will have to agree to disagree on the panel lines. While the gun vents are off on the Revell, that was not what I was commenting on. When i build a C from the Tamiya kit, i end up filling far more panel lines & access panels than i do when building the Revell, not to mention having to add panel lines Present on the C not present on the E’s. Remember the E’s were a completely new internal design due to the additional electronics, common engine bay requirement, increased gross weight, and double the service life hours required of the Strike Eagle. In r

The KA exhausts are equal to any PE Details...... The KA burner tube and flame holder are wrong, but their nozzles, because they are printed and not hybrids, have the very small push rods that connect the bell-crank to the individual peddles. The PE has these but they are very two dimensional. keep in mind that we are splitting hairs here, as the KA’s or hybrids are both very nice!!!

The only F-4’s to use the F-15 tank were later E,F,& G’s. The C/D’s and USN/USMC versions all used the older tank. Sprue Brother’s carries both styles of drop tank in the GT Resin line.

Hi, Full length Seamless intakes for the Hasegawa Legacy Hornet kits: F/A-18A,B,C, & D kits. Now you can built these fantastic models with accurate intakes and fans. Very easy to install!!! https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/gtr48031.htm Also, 1/32 F-15 SG Decal set produced in conjunction with Miliverse models in Singapore. This set is designed to fit the Tamiya F-15E kits converted to the SG configuration using the GT Resin Conversion Set GTR32025. The GTR Conversion Set comes with all of the exterior antennas and parts, Detai

I think you might have the two reversed my friend. The Tamiya E,C, and J have panel line layouts for the "E" model. These include "E" JFS intakes, Speedbrake plates and way to many panel lines that differ for the "C/J" models. Revell has the correct panel line layout for the light grays, but they are deep and wide......very wide. Where Revell has the panel lines all screwed up is they use their C/D kit for an E, and other than the prototype Strike Eagle none sere built that way. In fact 5 attrition replacement "D's" ordered by the Israeli Air Force were built on the "E" airframe as t

Hi everyone, The difference with the C and the J kits is pretty well spelled out here by you all. For a closed canopy the kit cockpit is really all you need, as the AM pits are a real chore to fit inside of the fuselage without a lot of fit work....ie resin dust! If you use our antenna set, it includes the correct left fin top pod fairing, so using the J kit would be my suggestion as it gives you the MSIP panel and the Antenna set fixed the fin pod issue. One other suggestion, our LAU 128/552 combo are the only scale accurate Aftermarket rails made in 1/

HI, I would recommend that you buy each of the kits you are asking about and use them as a sizing tool, especially if you are using the data for products. The answers you have received are for real aircraft. However, having measured every kit made in 1/32 and 1/48 scale for our accessory line, I can conclusively say there are differences in the kits. These differences have little or no correlation to what the actual aircraft really are. You can always sell the kits once you are done with them online or at a swap meet if you attend those.