Guest Peterpools Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Chuck As Bill Murray said in Stripes " You're a mad man! I've read the update thoroughly twice and am still digesting all the information - bravo on explaining your thought process and how you reached your decision on which nozzles to use. Taking a deep breath: delicate and precision work. Amazing, absolutely amazing work. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richdlc Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 those cans look awesome chuck! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galfa Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I am loving this build ! Keep posting, keep posting, keep posting... chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghatherly Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Great way to show most of the possibilities available in resin and plastic. I appreciate the positive way you approached the subject as Mike, Bruce ( who mastered CE a decade ago), and myself all put a tremendous amount of time into the respective products. The F-15 naked nozzles are tremendously detailed, and whether you use resin or plastic, there are serious compromises that have to be made if one does not want to use PE. I for one am just glad that Eduard and Flightpath offer what they do so there is a mall metal option. Hereis the Hybrid PE method that Chuck is opting not to do. Each Nozzle is 667 parts and takes 50-55 hours to assemble. close to 8 million!!!!!! LOL Working on IAF 957 build at present and debating whether to not to use the Resin exhausts with TF's. She has flown both ways and not sure which way to go. The nozzles look so cool no matter which way you build them I hate to cover them up with tf's. Here are some 90% pics of the new nozzles, still need to add the PE TF mounts. Sorry the pics are not better, but the I phone only gets so close: Great stuff , and thanks for all of the time you spend with these builds Edited February 27, 2017 by ghatherly Shaka HI, chuck540z3, blackbetty and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KitmodellerNZ Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 This is simply breathtaking stuff! chuck540z3 and ghatherly 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsahling1 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 I used the FlightPath set for my F-15C a few years back, while they didn't come out perfect I kind of bit off more than I could chew (modeling skill and patience wise), I did finish it though. It's an intimidating task, but I annealed the metal and got a fantastic dark metallic look/color that can't be beat. But I wouldn't recommend it to anyone unless they bought 2 (because you WILL lose some of the pieces and you absolutely HATE yourself. If you're one of those weird types of people that don't swear, YOU WILL BE after that set. I think it was either Marcel or Geedublyer that did an AMAZING hybrid job with them and actually transformed them into the closed position. I'll be watching with interest how these come out. Nothing wrong with a little shameless self-promotion Here's the link to the finished bird. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=45758&hl=%2Bf-15c+%2Beagle+%2Bmig+%2Bkiller chuck540z3 and ghatherly 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Nothing wrong with a little shameless self-promotion Here's the link to the finished bird. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=45758&hl=%2Bf-15c+%2Beagle+%2Bmig+%2Bkiller Really interesting intro and the model looks excellent, but where's the darn nozzles!? I'm SO disappointed! Cheers, Chuck ghatherly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Chuck, I agree completely with your decision to use the kit petal actuator arms. I did the same myself as the PE parts are too 2D in this scale. (I actually had to remake them all with brass tube and wire because I wanted to show the nozzles in a more closed position). The parts I was referring to in my previous post are the tiny bits that fold into a "U" shape and replace the molded on detail all the way round the back edge of the "donut" where the actuator arms attach. These are the "turkey feather" attachment points. The metal gives more fidelity to that area. I understand how sanding the donut smooth might reduce it's diameter so can see why you'd choose not to go that route. I used the Flightpath part wrapped around the kit donut to achieve the smooth effect. (Gary used the same technique in his post above.) Since it is actually metal it can be heated to get some cool metal effects as a bonus too. Just a thought....... Truth be told, I'm confident that the burner cans on your Eagle will look $million no matter what so keep up the great work. Cheers. Edited February 24, 2017 by geedubelyer ghatherly, Marcel111, Rdrunner and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 That! is a LOT of eye strain. Plus bending. Perseverance pays off. Great! job, Chuck. No two ways about it. F`s are my favs, Marcel111, ghatherly and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghatherly Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 (edited) Chuck, One thing you may want to consider is removing the plastic mounts that would hold the TF's if installed and replacing them with the PE ones provided in the Eduard set. One could also remove the plastic between the mounts , but the pivot hole in the side of each mount flange is impossible to drill ( for me anyhow) without breaking a few of the flanges. Your a thought. Keep up the great work! Edited February 24, 2017 by ghatherly chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsahling1 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 (edited) Really interesting intro and the model looks excellent, but where's the darn nozzles!? I'm SO disappointed! Cheers, Chuck Thats cause they weren't exactly symmetrical in roundness, think of the nozzles here as a "Monet" ...my modeling skills weren't quite ready for something like that at the time. If I could do it over (and this is making my OCD itch just talking about this...I would've done something like you're doing using a combination of kit, resin, and PE parts. Luckily FlightPath provides some extras on the fret but folding those tiny pieces drove me crazy, a similar episode was when i did my Su-27 Flanker last year on the 'cleats' for the canopy, there were only about a dozen but it took HOURS since they were so damn small or a part would go flying into the carpet. Edited February 24, 2017 by dsahling1 Rdrunner and Anthony in NZ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 The parts I was referring to in my previous post are the tiny bits that fold into a "U" shape and replace the molded on detail all the way round the back edge of the "donut" where the actuator arms attach. These are the "turkey feather" attachment points. Cheers. Gotcha! I'll definitely look into that. Thanks for the tip. Cheers, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squizzy 78 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Just awesome work Chuck, what you're doing with this kit just raises the bar. I can't wait to see the finished burner cans. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 And what is the situation with the trailing edge of every feather... The visible outermost ring... It looks like a little bit too thick. Or the long pe pieces will be glued slightly offset backwards to expose their sharp edges? Or maybe some sharpening of the resin from the inner side? Some rounded bulky elements are also visible exactly on the edge, while they should be flat. Hmm...just only weathering probably will not be sufficient to "sharpen" the edges... ghatherly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 And what is the situation with the trailing edge of every feather... The visible outermost ring... It looks like a little bit too thick. Or the long pe pieces will be glued slightly offset backwards to expose their sharp edges? Or maybe some sharpening of the resin from the inner side? Some rounded bulky elements are also visible exactly on the edge, while they should be flat. Hmm...just only weathering probably will not be sufficient to "sharpen" the edges... The answer(s) are: 1) Resin casting. While resin can be cast super thin, like the front wings on an AIM-9 missile, you are asking for big trouble if you tried to cast the entire outer edge of these nozzles that thin, because they would no doubt be too fragile to cast clean most of the time or break later when handling. 2) Sanding would remove detail. Ignoring the fact that these super soft nozzles are hard to sand in the first place, there is significant serrated detail on the inside and outside of each petal. 3) Close-up photography reveals every single flaw. Most of my pics above are at the equivalent of less than 2" away. At 1/32 scale, that's the same as a bit over 5' on the real deal, which you would not normally experience except at an airshow, etc.. The petals do not look all that thick at 8" away, which is what you'd normally experience at a model contest. 4) The big one- Compromise. Almost all modeling involves making compromises to attain detail, while still making the construction and painting as clean as possible. For example, the kit petals are thinner than the resin since they are made out of plastic and are easier to cast that way. Even if you cut them down to the correct size, you will still have 5 seam lines on the outside that do not belong there. They are subtle, but they are still "wrong". A big deal? Likely not, but it's a compromise that you have to make if you go that route. Cheers, Chuck Shaka HI, F`s are my favs, ghatherly and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now