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Everything posted by KitmodellerNZ

  1. I've had no issues using Tamiya lacquer thinner to wipe down bare plastic. It definitely didn't do any damage.
  2. The main one was the intake join. Just needed a bit of sanding to get it to sit nicely and then filling as there were a couple of decent gaps. Nothing major to fix. The tail insert needed a bit of sanding to get a nice profile, again nothing major. The rest was just minor filling of joins. The wings fitted beautifully along the wing root though.
  3. Hi guys, I have just completed Revell's 1/32 P-51D early Mustang. This was OOB with the exception of the HGW textile harnesses. I used Tamiya acrylics and lacquers, Vallejo Metal Color, Windsor & Newton oils and AK weathering products. I really enjoyed this build, fit issues aside. I decided to use the supplied decals rather than masks for this build. The quality of the decals is fantastic. I believe they're Cartograf. I used flat and semi-gloss clear coats to represent the sheen in the areas of the hotly debated 'was it blue or was it green?' topic.
  4. I used Montex Masks for the markings and codes. I reproduced the kit supplied stencil decals onto some ultra thin decal paper.
  5. Hi guys, I just finished this one off this morning. She's been an absolute pleasure to build. I superdetailed the kit engine with lead wire, plastic rod and brass tube. HGW seatbelts, Montex Masks, Barracuda pilot's seat, 3-slot wheels & cockpit door. Painted with Tamiya acrylics, Vallejo acrylics and metallics, AK Interactive and Ammo by Mig weathering products and W&N oil paints.
  6. I liked the effect of Gauzy, but found masks tore it off. I've used Future over the years with varying levels of success and also the Alclad Aqua Gloss, but I'm turning to polishing from now on.
  7. The Scotch Brite idea came about as a cost saving technique for me. I'd be paying around NZ$50 to get a set of the Artool FX Mini templates sent to me here in Auckland, NZ from an airbrush store in Australia.
  8. Beautiful! I'm up to black basing and applying the upper side camo on mine at the moment.
  9. I didn't do anything except give mine a good shake and a high pressure blast with the airbrush.
  10. Colin, I just spray through the pad with the pressure set to around 20psi. You could give it a go though. I guess the main factor is how much you have pulled at the Scotch Brite.
  11. Beautiful work! Do you have a build log for this one by any chance?
  12. Thanks for sharing your observation. I've only tried it over black so far. I'm looking forward to trying it over topcoats instead of using salt.
  13. I just hold the Scotch Brite lightly against the model's surface. No issues with it moving whilst spraying. I lift it and reposition the Scotch Brite as I go, so no issues with scratching
  14. You do use more paint than you would if you were to use the squiggle method, but I wouldn't say that you're using a colossal amount. I'd estimate that I've used around 1/3rd of a 10ml jar of Tamiya XF-54 to complete the undersides.
  15. The great thing is that it can be used for other techniques such as adding texture layers etc, without using methods such as salt masks.
  16. IMO, airbrushing a squiggle pattern randomly over a kit still looks too uniform, regardless of how ‘random’ you try to make it. … And it takes too bloody long on a large kit such as a 1/32 Ju-88! Enter the Scotch Brite masking technique which came about after I had been looking at pro airbrushing stencils online and thinking there must be a cheaper way. Firstly some prep is required before using your Scotch Brite. Because these types of pads are dense, you must prepare them by tearing, pulling and reducing the thickness by tearing them in half carefully along their horizontal axis. Here is an example of the Scotch Brite in action on Revell’s 1/32 Ju-88. Airbrushing Tamiya XF-54 Neutral Grey through a Scotch Brite; I completed the entire underside in approximately 40 minutes. The result; Close up; I applied further mistings of neutral grey to reduce the contrast; Where possible, I mix my own colours with Tamiya Acrylics mixed with 50% Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. For RLM 65 I mixed up equal parts of XF-23 and XF-2 thinned as per above. In the airbrush cup I added this mix and then added the same amount of thinner to make it highly diluted. This allows the topcoat to be built up gradually. This makes it hard to overdo it and destroy the effect if you get heavy handed with the trigger. The result so far;
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