chuck540z3 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Thanks Joel! Hey Chuck, Is it safe to say that your shoulder is getting better since your Honey Doooooo list is in catch-up mode? If I could add some support for leaving the plastic for the Control rod mounts, these mounts are much beefier/heavy duty than those used to hold the TF's. Those rods have a tremendous amount of stress on them working against tons of thrust. Really looking forward to seeing these completed when you get to it. Gary Hi Gary, Yes and almost sadly, the stronger my shoulder gets, the more I'm expected to do around the house! As for your suggestion, I'm already doing just that, as indicated in my post #576 above when I wrote, "I can confirm, however, that I have cut off the little "U-shaped" connectors for the turkey feathers as Guy and Gary have suggested, while retaining the central kit attachment for the rod-like actuators. This is a compromise between retaining a good plastic to plastic join of the rods while adding the "fidelity" (Guy's word, which I love) of the Eduard PE detail." The funny thing is, each petal has 3 attachments X 15 petals = 45 required per nozzle, but Eduard only supplies 72 in all, yet the instructions show that all 3 should be cut off. It appears as though Eduard expects you to place the rod in between 2 of the U-shaped pieces without having an attachment point for the rod at all, which is really weird. Cheers, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat14 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Chuck, you got a lot of patience to do all that photo etch work on those burners, and you make it look so easy, Great work so far. Chris chuck540z3 and Vandy 1 VX 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Feb 28/17 Thanks you very much guys! Rather than just yak about the Eduard turkey feather anchor points discussed above any longer, I got down to business last night and just installed the little suckers. Up until now, each nozzle has 105 pieces that have been added and with the actuator arms (15) and these new PE parts (30), each nozzle has 150 X 2 = 300 tiny little parts that had to be cut off, trimmed, sometimes bent and glued into place! Here's how small they are, 60 in all that had to be bent into the U shape..... The kit actuator arms need to be both shortened, but trimmed as well to a taper at the tip. They are actually thinner than this on the real deal, but I wanted them to fit the brass attachment points as perfectly as possible. The unaltered kit part on the left and the trimmed part on the right. Note the slight trimming of the sides on the left to allow a snug fit into the PE attachment points. To get all 30 arms cut exactly the same length, this little chopping block gizmo was invaluable. I hardly every use it, but when you need it, it comes in very handy. A super close-up of how these arms fit into place within the Eduard PE parts. Keep in mind this shot is about as close as you can get, so every tiny flaw is magnified. Zoomed out, you can see the nozzles after final assembly, including all those tiny U-shaped anchor points on the bottom collar. The base of each nozzle was pre-painted with Tamiya gloss black lacquer before installation into the bottom collar to allow for easy access and eliminate any air turbulence that can make the paint rough. The rest of the nozzle can now be painted black without worrying about getting into those complicated tight spots within the base. Another angle more from the top, to show that looking almost head-on, the width of the petals does not look as thick as from the sides. After painting the interior white (with the appropriate dark staining) and the outside a mix of Alclad Titanium and Steel, the appearance of this width should be subdued even more. BTW, for laughs, I tried to sand one of the petals down a bit and got the predictable results. As mentioned earlier, these Two Mikes nozzles are too soft to sand, so all you wind up doing is scratching them, so they are better off left as is. That's it for now, so my next post will likely have these nozzles painted a multitude of subtle colors and stained appropriately, but not too much. This is one of the parts of modeling that I really love because it allows me to be a bit artsy. Cheers, Chuck Shawn M, Paul in Napier, MarioS and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Nice work Chuck Thanks for the tutorials on your F-15 and your building styles are. I just bought that exact version of the chopper a couple of weeks ago. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Chuck, Simply outstanding work at the highest of levels. A master modeler can make the most difficult and delicate assemblies look as though anyone can do it, yet, only a few have the skills to deal with 100s of little PE pieces and get them all on, and aligned perfectly. Joel A-10LOADER and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Definitely gorgeous nozzles! I thought that the inner sides of the feathers will also receive PE... there are some long very nicely detailed pieces on the Pe fret, a couple of pages ago, if I remember correctly. That way the feathers on the inner side look a little blank, no sharp edges, it's difficult to distinguish the overlapping feathers. At least I see it that way on the pics - there are just no vertical lines to accept the wash. Whilst with the PE... chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) Definitely gorgeous nozzles! I thought that the inner sides of the feathers will also receive PE... there are some long very nicely detailed pieces on the Pe fret, a couple of pages ago, if I remember correctly. That way the feathers on the inner side look a little blank, no sharp edges, it's difficult to distinguish the overlapping feathers. At least I see it that way on the pics - there are just no vertical lines to accept the wash. Whilst with the PE... I know. 3 reasons not to: 1) If the petals are too thick already, more PE will make them even thicker. 2) If you look at reference pics, the insides of the outside petals (which are the PE ones) look very smooth and featureless to me. They may have the detail of the PE if you get real close, but from a few feet away, you see nothing, so "plain is good", just like on the resin parts. 3) Adding the PE would reduce the front to back petal overlap look, by filling in the depression for the outside petals. Cheers, Chuck Edited February 28, 2017 by chuck540z3 F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Sounds reasonable. Can't wait to see them painted and weathered. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 WOW! chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squizzy 78 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 That looks amazing Chuck. I've got all the pieces, what if I mail them to you for assembly chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Brilliant, Chuck! I love how you zoom in, and say, "every flaw is magnified," but there aren't any flaws ... I hope they give you some spares for those u-shaped PE bits ... I would lose 5-10% for sure! Cheers Jim chuck540z3, F`s are my favs and NavyF4s 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 That looks amazing Chuck. I've got all the pieces, what if I mail them to you for assembly Ahhhhh, no. , but thanks anyway. I was quite enthralled with all the little bits for the first 150 parts or so, but the second 150 were brutal, because there are no shortcuts and doing the same thing over and over again is really boring. Sometimes modeling is hard labor and this was one of those times, but I'm hoping the end result will be worth it! Brilliant, Chuck! I love how you zoom in, and say, "every flaw is magnified," but there aren't any flaws ... I hope they give you some spares for those u-shaped PE bits ... I would lose 5-10% for sure! Cheers Jim Thanks. Thankfully the smaller PE parts have 10-15% extra spares, including even the kit parts, so you can lose or screw up a couple and there is no drama. Good thing too, because you WILL lose some parts. Cheers, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) Amazing job Chuck...clean and precise work on those exhausts. I take it you're using CA glue (and debonder for any clean-up). Rich Edited February 28, 2017 by allthumbs chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Amazing job Chuck...clean and precise work on those exhausts. I take it you're using CA glue (and debonder for any clean-up). Rich Yes sir! For those who might be interested, I have some tips using CA glue in my earlier post #508 here: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=60892&page=34 Chuck allthumbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galfa Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Congratulations, Best thread of the year by far and large. Show us as much as possible of the painting of these exhausts. MarioS, F`s are my favs and chuck540z3 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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